R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road-4/)
-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

CraigMBA 11-06-2011 02:50 PM


Originally Posted by sedemente (Post 9876442)
So let me ask why the flaming of Billy? Did coke not do cherry coke cause pepsi had cherry pepsi? How bout tires , proline suburbs look alot like Jconcepts barcodes . Even you mantis your two stage pistons are the exact same as the rpm two stage that have been out for years.But still Billy gets flamed. Do we not live in a capitalistic society?I have been self employed for 18 years and seen the good and bad of business. Yes it sucks to have (ideas, thoughts, and or jobs) quote, unquote TAKEN. But my opinion is this is business 101 , who can make the best product,for the best price , and give the best service.

In that case, Mac The Knife will reign supreme because he is better than Billy in all three categories.

And in any case, it'll be all over when AE comes out with a properly cast spur gear that is deep enough to handle multiple pads without the bucket.

CraigMBA 11-06-2011 02:54 PM


Originally Posted by RokleM (Post 9876390)
I'm fighting a "drag" in my drivetrain. As I was replacing the motor ESC anyway, I found this new one has a "rotor locked" option notification that wasn't on my old one. Every once in a while when I stop, I just can't start again. If I give the vehicle a kick and pull the trigger, it goes again.

I've torn through everything and I THINK it's the clutch basket and cover. I know i saw it somewhere but haven't been able to find it. How are you guys modifying the cover so that the basket isn't rubbing? I tried a heat gun and that started to melt it instead. Boil? For tightness (not running pinned), the nut even with the top shaft, tighter or looser? This is the MTN version, not an imitator :D

If you got the cover to start to melt, you got it just hot enough so you can reform it. I'd suggest you look inside the cover for witness marks, but in all seriousness, there is no way you can make enough drag on the cover to stop the motor from whatever interference you have from the basket.

Sounds like you lost a sensor board or wire to me...

1Fastpede 11-06-2011 02:55 PM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 9876450)
ASAP, you will sell a lot of them. I've had mine done for about two months, it really helped make the truck easier to drive.

+1 and look into make a non adjustable one (center hole) :)

Cameron Kellogg 11-06-2011 03:00 PM


Originally Posted by 1Fastpede (Post 9876481)
+1 and look into make a non adjustable one (center hole) :)

Grind off the other two holes if you want a center only one. :lol:

RokleM 11-06-2011 03:02 PM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 9876478)
If you got the cover to start to melt, you got it just hot enough so you can reform it. I'd suggest you look inside the cover for witness marks, but in all seriousness, there is no way you can make enough drag on the cover to stop the motor from whatever interference you have from the basket.

Sounds like you lost a sensor board or wire to me...

Let me rephrase, started to burn and still couldn't easily flex it.

Yes, there are heavy scratches and such on the inside of the cover. Completely new electronics (minus servo) shows it isn't that. It is a physical binding, I can feel it when it is "stuck" and I turn the wheels. I have torn it down, and this is the only binding/rubbing I can find.

So back to the question, how are people modifying the cover and how tight do you have it tightened down?

Cameron Kellogg 11-06-2011 03:03 PM

Glad to see Marcus logged off finally. That must mean he went to making steering racks. :sneaky:

:lol::lol::lol:

1Fastpede 11-06-2011 03:13 PM


Originally Posted by RokleM (Post 9876515)
Let me rephrase, started to burn and still couldn't easily flex it.

Yes, there are heavy scratches and such on the inside of the cover. Completely new electronics (minus servo) shows it isn't that. It is a physical binding, I can feel it when it is "stuck" and I turn the wheels. I have torn it down, and this is the only binding/rubbing I can find.

So back to the question, how are people modifying the cover and how tight do you have it tightened down?

run it without the cover?!?

RokleM 11-06-2011 03:17 PM


Originally Posted by 1Fastpede (Post 9876543)
run it without the cover?!?

Plan to, unfortunately it's dark. I ran it for 2-3 minutes and notice new deeper scratches before posting...... which is why I'm asking how people are modifying it and how tight they have it.

Mizchief 11-06-2011 03:35 PM


Originally Posted by RokleM (Post 9876390)
I'm fighting a "drag" in my drivetrain. As I was replacing the motor ESC anyway, I found this new one has a "rotor locked" option notification that wasn't on my old one. Every once in a while when I stop, I just can't start again. If I give the vehicle a kick and pull the trigger, it goes again.

I've torn through everything and I THINK it's the clutch basket and cover. I know i saw it somewhere but haven't been able to find it. How are you guys modifying the cover so that the basket isn't rubbing? I tried a heat gun and that started to melt it instead. Boil? For tightness (not running pinned), the nut even with the top shaft, tighter or looser? This is the MTN version, not an imitator :D

Which motor? I was posting the same issue a couple pages back.

Resqnu 11-06-2011 03:41 PM

Need help ASAP
 
I just purchased a used SC10 4x4 in great condition. I plan on racing this Wednesday. It came with FT hexes and FT turnbuckles ans sway bars. I am going over the truck and want to rebuild the shocks and duffs. What shock and diff fluids are you guys running? Any specific setups or mods need to be done for a starting point?

RokleM 11-06-2011 03:41 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9876611)
Which motor? I was posting the same issue a couple pages back.

Not that it matters as far as I can tell, but 540 ballistic 7.5 and 550 ballistic 4.5.

Mizchief 11-06-2011 03:47 PM


Originally Posted by RokleM (Post 9876634)
Not that it matters as far as I can tell, but 540 ballistic 7.5 and 550 ballistic 4.5.

Yea, exact same problem I have with my 550 Ballistic 4.5. Don't be like me and tear apart your drivetrain looking for the snag, it's something messed up with the motor. Have you been though any water puddles lately? this happend to me after ridding on a moist track. I'm going to try and get store credit for it or at least get a replacement, but got a Pro4 4000kv on the way to replace it.

Mac The Knife 11-06-2011 03:51 PM


Originally Posted by RokleM (Post 9876555)
Plan to, unfortunately it's dark. I ran it for 2-3 minutes and notice new deeper scratches before posting...... which is why I'm asking how people are modifying it and how tight they have it.

On my truck, I used sanding discs in my dremel to sand out the inside of the gear cover for clearance.

RokleM 11-06-2011 03:53 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9876656)
Yea, exact same problem I have with my 550 Ballistic 4.5. Don't be like me and tear apart your drivetrain looking for the snag, it's something messed up with the motor. Have you been though any water puddles lately? this happend to me after ridding on a moist track. I'm going to try and get store credit for it or at least get a replacement, but got a Pro4 4000kv on the way to replace it.

It is brand new and i had the same issue with the last motor which worked fine in another sct.

Mac The Knife 11-06-2011 03:57 PM

Here's my "For Sale" thread,,,, lotsa install pictures and info. http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ch-basket.html


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:32 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.