:ha: I was running a 6.5 2 pole he built me but my fan died after the 1st qualifier so I had to dial it back and run blinky mode, club races aren't worth frying anything over. :cool: Other wise it ran pretty hard. Hard to see in the video but the front wheels comes off the ground on the straight. :D

I have a Murfdogg 5.5 motor that is crazy fast for the big outdoor tracks. :nod:

Didn't have a right bit for the pin mod but I did run a couple more packs after work yesterday and I am fed up with the heat on the esc. I am starting to think the esc may have an issue but yet it runs fine. I'm looking to get something else but not break the bank. I have many castle mmm's so I would want to try something different. No tekin (rx8) at all. Bought 6 combos through a military discount and had to return 2 esc's and 1 motor which also took 2 of my hyperion lipos with it so I will never go with a tekin esc ever again. Sorry but I did not have a good experience with it. I was maybe looking at one of the hobbywing or ezrun 120 amp esc. Anyone running one of these. It will be paired with a tekin 4.5 motor.
Terry

I am running the xerun 120amp/tekin pro 4. It is n excellent combo, runs cool and has all the power I could ever want. the xerun is rock solid.

Anyone? I havent come across this anywhere on the thread.
 

Haven't read anything about this and sure could use some advice. Only Mod on the truck is the MTK Clutch Basket....and I LOVE it! lol

I found some on ebay for 95$ shipped. They are the shinny blue case kind and are meant for the sct trucks. Is this the one your talking about. I have also seen the blue 2.0 and the black 2.1 versions as well. I may have to have a go at it and finally test one of these out for myself. Thanks

I use HAVOC PRO esc with Tekin 4.5 Geared 13/62 after 8 minutes iam @ 142 on motor 100 on esc, So i went to a 14/62 motor was 163 @ 8 minutes esc was still 100... What esc are u using?

MMP esc. I was just looking at the hobbywing sc8 120 amp esc for 80$ on hobbypartz. Now I will say that when we run on my track it is non stop the whole pack so maybe it's just the harder running that's creating the extra heat. Are you using any timing on the motor?

Terry

No timing

Your truck is ridonkulously fast with that motor in it. Too much hp for where we were this weekend, but fun to drive. That motor will be money at Mike's and Katy. Interesting driving your truck back to back with mine. Completely different handling.

Divey, I've been running the HW/SP speedos since Feb in 2wd and 4wd buggy. It's hot down here in summer (30 of 31 days in August along were 100+ deg) and humid, really hard on speedos and motors. Mine were flawless this summer, and again this weekend.

Just ordered a SC10 4x4!
I also got sway bars and HD slipper pads along with diff/shock oils.

mine is the blue v2.1, it is not the sct specific esc. it runs very well.

here is my review of the hot racing hard anno diff case and hard anno idler gear.
I first got my truck out on friday and ran several packs through the truck, unfortunaly due to some shock issues from the TiNi shafts I had, the shock screw kept coming undone. On saturday, i ran some practice laps and during the first heat i noticed my truck would spin out out of nowhere. Upon checking the play in the front diff I noticed that it would lock up when spinning oe side of the diff and would spin fine on the other. Between the secnd and third qualifier, I discovered that I had to remove the gasket to get the gears to mesh tight enough.
Here is why.
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_IMG_3306.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_IMG_3300.jpg
as you can see, the black side has a ring worn into it. That is because the recess machined into it where the washer underneath the sungear is deeper than the thickness of the washer. The gear rides and wear until it seats flush against the washer underneath it, causing the gear mesh to loosen. The loosening of the gear mesh was causing binding. When the gears would bind up, in a turn my truck would simply spin out. I was able to overcome the problem by adding an extra washer underneath the sungear.
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_IMG_3301.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_IMG_3307.jpg
and once again, as you can see on the back side of the black piece, a groove where the bearing was rubbing. This was unnoticable to me while driving, and i dont now if this is a problem. The outside of the diff, the actual gear itself looked great.

Now on to the idler gear.
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_IMG_3310.jpg
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_IMG_3308.jpg
i had no problems with the idler, and upon inspection, it showed a little wear on the outside edge of the teeth, but only time will tell if the wear continues. BTW the annodized did not wear, the metal slightly deformed.

The link was for "munrath"...you had told him there was no emulsion build video so I was helping out.

As far as the emulion build goes. I prefer it over the bladders for 90% of the track.

A minute each and then re-bleed.

ok guys I take what I said about the truck back in my earlier post. I did change the shock oil to 30wt front and 25wt rear. I still havent raced it yet, but I did get 2 packs threw the truck on the track yesterday and truck was alot better than I posted before. I could drive the truck pretty well. But there was alot of losi's on the track and by watching them they seem to go around the track better. The track we ran on is big. 40 second lap times with some decent size jumps and its kind of rough. Truck is all stock except I put sway bars on it,used the 1.5mm since it was bumpy. When hard on the throttle I think I hear something in the drive train like the belt is skipping slightly. What do you guys suggest I do to make the truck a little better. There were sc10's on the track racing but the losi's seem to be turning faster lap times