Originally Posted by sparkwraps (Post 9805834)

Same exact problem here. Wound up running a ziptie through the slots in the tray.


PS - My SC104x4 is up for grabs (http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...2wd-buggy.html)

Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 9805449)

Umm...only swaybars has ThunderbirdJunkie mentioned as being band-aids.
The chassis brace is something we shouldn't need to install because Associated should have gotten the materials and/or design right in the first place. If you disagree, feel free to let ThunderbirdJunkie know.

Please, let ThunderbirdJunkie know everything he's described as a band-aid.

Let's see...30k+ weight front diff fluid? OH HEY, LOOK, GUYS ARE PINNING THEIR SLIPPERS AND USING LIGHTER DIFF FLUID; WOULDJA LOOKIT THAT. COMPENSATE FOR A POOR DESIGN AND YOU NO LONGER NEED THE BAND-AID.
Swaybars? ThunderbirdJunkie simply stated that most people use them as a band-aid for a not-quite-there setup. People were prematurely adding them and stating an improvement - which is to be expected - but most of these were box-stock trucks with mostly box-stock setups, which leads people to develop their setup with swaybars, which leads to trucks not being set up as well as they could be, thus continuing a vicious cycle of band-aiding.

Swaybars have their place, but not until the setup is getting close. Hell, that might be what ThunderbirdJunkie's truck was missing...but he won't know until he gets another one because he's still got NIP swaybars in his metric pitbox.

If you don't agree, that's fine...but ThunderbirdJunkie has not used the term "Band-aid" for much, and he hasn't said it often, either. Some people simply decide to get defensive because somebody else thinks outside of the box and doesn't want to follow simply because following is the cool thing to do; ThunderbirdJunkie never put his saddle packs down the center, and his truck was getting close to dialed. He sold it because he was tired of the lack of quality in the currently available parts, and as has happened in the past, the Factory Team will make that better. Why do you think they used the carbon in the first place? Because the normal plastic SUCKED.

Dunno how long you've been around, but ThunderbirdJunkie has watched the same exact trend with Associated of end-user development with first-run kits since 1996. If you'd like to argue these facts, why don't you talk to the long-time team drivers about the B4 and B2 and their developmental setup issues? AE has never had a good setup on ANYTHING out of the box aside from the FT SC10, and even that sucks compared to some of the RTRs.


You were thinking it was not a good idea because you know, secretly, that ThunderbirdJunkie is 100% right.
Again, the third person thing...anybody that goes against your cookie-cutter grain is crazy unless they're a pro toy car driver eh?


Who's not making sense now:lol:

Saddle packs mounted to the rear, better plastics and other materials, and higher inner ballstud mounting pieces will make this truck the world-beater it should be.

The fact that you remembered something ThunderbirdJunkie said MONTHS ago must have struck a chord, because you're clinging to it like a starving puppy to its mother's teat. That means there must be truth to it.

Originally Posted by old&slow (Post 9806481)

Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9806936)

Hey guys, sorry if this is an inappropriate place to post, but I want to get the issue resolved quick so I can get the right parts if need be:

I got the Protek (amain brand) battery that uses the bullet style connectors. From the description I thought it came with the balance plug, but apparently it only came with the bullet connector and no wire or balance plug.

Can I solder a regular 2s balance plug onto it (from an old dead battery) or do I need something special?

Thanks for the help, I'm also googling the solution and will post results if I figure it out first.

Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9806936)

Hey guys, sorry if this is an inappropriate place to post, but I want to get the issue resolved quick so I can get the right parts if need be:

I got the Protek (amain brand) battery that uses the bullet style connectors. From the description I thought it came with the balance plug, but apparently it only came with the bullet connector and no wire or balance plug.

Can I solder a regular 2s balance plug onto it (from an old dead battery) or do I need something special?

Thanks for the help, I'm also googling the solution and will post results if I figure it out first.

Originally Posted by 1Fastpede (Post 9806958)

You need one of these:


You should be able to solder it up just make sure it is wired correctly

Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9806985)

Thanks. Since I only plan to use the battery just for this truck I think I'm just going to solder bullets to the esc and plug it straight into the battery, then solder the balance plug onto the charging cable.

Bingo! Exactly what I was thinking about doing with mine. Just solder a jumper wire with bullet connectors for the opposite side, and be sure (of course) that you have the correct polarity when you hook everything up. You don't need the balance tap assembly when you're running the car.

I was also going to direct solder the esc to the motor. However does that make a big difference on this truck? It's always nice to be able to disconnect the motor from esc if it's not a big difference otherwise.

The bullet style connectors are pretty darn efficient. That said, it's still 2 additional solder joints over just hard wiring the motor, and the shorter the wires and the fewer the connections, the less resitance. I like my motors hard wired, 35 seconds to heat an iron and another 10 or so to take 3 wires off. Not much longer than pulling bullet connectors apart LOL. As good as teh batteries and motors and connectors are now it probably doesn't make that much difference anymore, but I'll take every little mechanical edge I can get.

Originally Posted by jhold87 (Post 9807014)

Anybody running the slash 4x4 motor an esc. And what are the thoughts on it.