i would suggest letting it slip, at least until we get a grasp on whats blowing up the idler gear! although i have 2 complete race days with no issues yet . the basket with garodisc will engage quicker than the normal two disc setup. if i recall correctly when i run the basket the nut isnt even on all of the way! it sticks out about 1mm over the shaft! so put some blue loctite on it, you shouldnt have to go more than "flush"

thanks mantis..

hmm seruisly is ther no durabilety problems whit this truck
do i really only need to get the swaybars and owertray for it and thats it??:D


like i say earlyer im going to run it on a large outside track 1/8 scale whit some big jumps on it.

what diff olie and suspention olie u recoment for start point??

I've been running the pin mod for A month with no issues. And driving it hard. And a lot of people have ruined idler gears with out the pin. Its. Just gonna happen here and there. Also mine has no new noises.

See. If you can pull the shaft/spur away from the motor/pinion.

i been driving mine pretty hard in stock form.. nothing failed on mine sofar.. just doing some setup work on it.. it really reacts good to setup changes.. hoping the diff setup will cure the unpredictability in the corners and acceleration..

Is anyone running the pinned slipper with either the stock pads or the HD pads? Looks like most of y'all are running pinned with either a clutch basket or the Garodiscs. A lot of times blown idlers are the result of landing, wheels are spinning, and too much shock gets transmitted to drive train. Wondering if a slipper with a little more give might not help. Mine has stock slipper setup, hoping to get some time this week to pin the slipper and try it.

Dang, I was set to pin, now I'm hesitant. Question to pinned idler killers: are you running clutch baskets or garodiscs? I wonder if the stock slipper set up is the way to go if you're pinned??

Edit : oops, the above post wasn't there when I posted...kinda the same question...

Pin it u will like it

I don't race at AMS too often. Usually just special events since I'm closer to dirtburners living in Ann Arbor. I settled on clay panther switches front and rear on DE xxxsct rear rims to get closer to the roar max width this past Saturday. The cars balance feels great.

Correct on no pinned slipper. I'm waiting on the whole pinned thing, but that very well could be what I'll have to do in the end.
I make sure my arms aren't binding and are straight.

Saturday was the first race for my truck. Ran a Velineon motor system, kit tires, kit setup. Placed third in A2 after starting in tenth and finishing in tenth in A1 due to steering issues. Now im having popping sounds coming from the steering knuckles/hub/hex area when I compress the suspension with wheels on. Wheels off, its quiet. The sound started when i had the plastic hubs but went away when I put the FT hubs on but now the noise is back. Any ideas??

I've been doing some reading on the idler gears. I'm not sure if its related or not, or even relevant to the 4x4. When I built my original Sc10 kit with the gear diff, I used to go through idler gears like crazy. So much, that I made idler gear replacement part of my maintenance schedule. When I got my Ft kit with a ball diff, my idler problems went away. It kind of made me believe that the gear diffs put a little more stress on the drive train and idler. There again, I'm not sure if the same theory can be transferred to the 4x4, but it was just a personal observation..

Don't wait. Do it now. If you dislike it, you can undo it in moments.

But you won't.

I think users need to reconsider how they are setting the slipper clutch after making the pin mod. For consideration, may I suggest viewing:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html

I think you can get by without the slipper upgrades if you pin the belt and you run shorter races in higher bite situations, or you run less motor.

Ran 5 hours through my pinned truck, stock slipper (fiberglass pad on the outside) and it still runs like new.


If you use garodiscs/basket you'll need to loosen it down, either you'll destroy the transmission.

so glad thinner front worked for you as it did for me, I knew it would ;) :)





I am running the garodisk for the rear and an HD for the front on clay with gold barcodes and the front comes off the truck after a raceday with almost no glazed/shiny area :)

Ball diffs will slip under hard impacts if the slipper doesn't first. On the other hand, geared diffs don't have any way to give so it doesn't surprise me you have much better idler gear life with the FT version.