Hey Pat, that's awesome! Congratulations!

Carpet racing
 

Any of you race your truck on an Indoor Carpet track? Bar codes seem to work best on my 2wd 50wt shock oil with internal limiters. Think I will need to do the same for the 4x4??

I have raced on a carpet off-road track. Used the 2.2 sway bars. 5mm of internal limiters. We had to run slicks (Panther makes them now) because of the tracks rules. Slicks work really good on carpet and to stop traction rolling I superglue the outside 1/4 of the front tires and run -2deg of camber all the way around.

Was a one time event for me so I only got a few hours to test and tune but ended up TQ and taking home first. :cool:

So that's it??? I don't have to use the tool??, just make sure that the horn
is straight up in down, with the power on???
I only took the cover plate and servo out, so I was hoping I could just leave all the servo hardware in place and reconnect the SERVO&PLATE.

I am going to put the DIFF(20K) back in tonight and maybe wait til 2morow to put the servo back in....Then i need to rebuild all the shocks, few more things to do...

THX

Originally Posted by CraigMBA View Post
Can't you just loosen the 3mm screws on top of the case and move it L/R in lieu of using the subtrim? I have 40 or so of subtrim in mine, and it's absolutely zero problem.


I still don't get this...??? move the servo L/R???
instead of subtrim??

Can some1 explain this further??

thx

Look at the servo horn as you adjust the subtrim. Watch it move. Effectively, you are moving the horn left or right in the chassis.

If you center the subtrim adjustment and loosen the top two screws on the servo mounts, you can move the servo left or right and maybe center it manually rather than using the subtrim.

If you have the subtrim off only 40 I'd assume that reclocking the servo horn one notch over will be too far. And for the record, I don't think there's anything wrong with a subtrim at +/- 40 if the EPA's aren't all funky, so color me confused why you'd fix a problem that isn't really a problem. At least it's not a problem to me, and I'm kind of picky.

ok, so u were sayin to loosen the top screws on the plate enough to reach in and turn the horn manually??
I think i get it, but my problem was the screw locking the horn in place
backed out and looked bent, so i replaced the screw. I had to take it out to do this......ALSO

Yes, my EPA settings were all "funky" because the SUBTRIM was off, so L/R EPA was different, because the SUBTRIM was off.
That's why i want to get it close as possible....

So i guess by that VIDEO above, i don't have to use the tool again??
I am going to get it straight up/down on the servo, then reattach everything...

THX

NO.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8766385/RCTe...gPostHoles.png

You see the two ovalized holes that have two screws that bolt to the servo mounts? Loosen those two. Move servo side to side and adjust so it centers the steering.

How did you manage that one? Didn't you locktite it in?

My Futaba radios do not have that problem, so I feel bad for you son.

I would be inclined to use the tool everytime, and adjust those top two screws accordingly.

i get it thx,
yes I forgot to use LOCKTITE on that screw, i also forgot
to put black grease on the servo saver, so i did that also tonight.

i understood what you were saying after i put the DIFF in, I was
inspecting the servo....
I am going to have to use everything, to get it perfect.

THX for the pics

Hello everyone!
Im new to this truck, allthough I preorderd it in late Januari its been sitting around NIB on my shelf since spring when I got it.

Now, while building it, I found that ”Rear inner belt cover” (#91088) is missing.
Is it possible to build and run the truck whithout the belt cover? Anybody tried it? Im going to run it indoors on carpet.

I feel that the truck is a bit over engineered with everything encapsulated and completely surrounded in plastic parts. Anybody that makes a carbon fiber och alluminium chassis for this truck? I do like the belt drive.

So,
I put the SERVO back on after centering it, just by making sure the SERVO HORN was pointed straight up after connecting to a battery....

I then put the SERVO back in the truck and turned on the electronics....
It looks like at ZERO SUBTRIM, everything is straight!!!

I won't know for sure til I actually run the truck, but I don't see it needing
more then maybe 10 SUBTRIM either way!!! I havn't set EPA or any other
settings on my DX3S/3300 yet, I'm going to wait until after I rebuild all the SHOCKS.....
I should be getting the RCSHOX 2stage pistons later today, so I am going to try them in the FRONT only(35wt), since I only ordered 1 pack of 4 pistons.....

I also am going to try the RCSHOX Dual slipper pad on the OUTSIDE along with the V2 vented slipper hub, even though with the HD pads out/in worked GREAT all day, with no adjustments needed to slipper...

THX every1

You can jiggle juggle your servo all you want, but if you'd plug your servo in, CENTER IT, then use the little tool while snugging it up...I think that's even what the manual suggests you do...

If you have no worry for DEBRIS then take all the covers off and save weight.... Covering all the moving parts is a very....offroad dirt-track....sort of thing.... you know, where 99% us will run the truck at some point...


onroad belt-drive doesn't do this, but that's because there usually aren't stones and dirt chunks the size of the belt teeth being flung everywhere....if you get a stone caught in your pully, you will know why they cover everything....

No. It is a structural member that keeps the chassis from flexing. Without it, you will toss the belt almost immediately.

I cut down the front part of the cover and only use the belt tension mount part. The rest of the covers are gone. Indoor clay tracks are pretty dirt friendly. I already have a carbon tube chassis brace so the belt does not slip. Save 1.8oz over all weight. :)