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Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID
(Post 9590240)
Orly fare to share some details :)
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 9590251)
That's what the past 20 post are about. :lol:
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The updated slipper sounds like exactly whats needed, the Clutch basket has made rear slippage far more manageable for me personally, but the front pad (inside the spur) has gotten pretty badly glazed after every run.
Hopefully they get the new pieces out soon, bit annoyed that I just picked up a FT top shaft for the rear though :rolleyes: |
What's up guys! Finally got the sc10 4x4 up and running this last past weekend. Took it to the track on the stock tires, they sucked pretty badly. But I knew that already, it actually did really well considering the surface I run is really dry. I was wondering, have any of you guys ran the duratrax wheel and tire setup? I was looking into them and was thinking the shotguns? I run the caliber sc's on my sc10 2wd and really like them. What do you Guys think?
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I just wanted to throw this out there to see what you guys think. I'm running Cavs set up & I'm needing a little more steering. I was thinking of trying 20k instead of 30k in the front. My rear shocks are out on the tower & front shocks are in the inside holes. Should I try a thicker rear sway bar instead of changing the diff fluid? Lmk what you guys think. Thanks!
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Hey there all, just ordered my SC10 4x4 and just wondering if there is any mods that need to be done to it.
Cheers Scott |
Originally Posted by hijinx
(Post 9591360)
Hey there all, just ordered my SC10 4x4 and just wondering if there is any mods that need to be done to it.
Cheers Scott |
Originally Posted by BLbound
(Post 9591353)
I just wanted to throw this out there to see what you guys think. I'm running Cavs set up & I'm needing a little more steering. I was thinking of trying 20k instead of 30k in the front. My rear shocks are out on the tower & front shocks are in the inside holes. Should I try a thicker rear sway bar instead of changing the diff fluid? Lmk what you guys think. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by BLbound
(Post 9591353)
I just wanted to throw this out there to see what you guys think. I'm running Cavs set up & I'm needing a little more steering. I was thinking of trying 20k instead of 30k in the front. My rear shocks are out on the tower & front shocks are in the inside holes. Should I try a thicker rear sway bar instead of changing the diff fluid? Lmk what you guys think. Thanks!
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Thanks Slot, thanks tbird, I didn't even think about raising the rear ride height. I will try that first, then try the 20k if it's needed. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 9590188)
The problem was the rear plate slipping when you ran a loose slipper , now that won't happen , design & performance is still the same ....
With the old style slipper ? It sometimes demanded a very tight setting to keep the rear plate from slipping. Canceling out any benefit the slipper could bring to the car as the slipper was about locked up to get proper acceleration ... |
Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 9590140)
Now the front and rear gearbox is "locked/pinned" to the rear gear box shaft. The slipper slips now like it does on the 2w trucks.
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9591485)
20k front diff fluid should be money. If you've got 30 (ThunderbirdJunkie thought it way too heavy) with 5k in the back, drop to 20, or even 15. The heavy front diff fluid isn't needed in this truck ITBJHO.
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Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID
(Post 9591779)
Yikes I have 60k in front and 7k in the back c
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Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID
(Post 9591779)
Yikes I have 60k in front and 7k in the back c
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