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Originally Posted by Eli
(Post 9562301)
To each their own.
People hate the stock wooden tires. I like em :nod: @midnight: The RX8 is plenty enough, but I'd rather choose other ESCs instead of it... Much cheaper ones, you don't need such a monster for an SCT. The Xerun 120A is fine, and has great tuning options. I personally love the MMP. As for the motor, I'm a firm defender of the Tenshock 401 and the Neu Castle 1410, they are much lighter than a 550 and have the same if not more torque. Plus they are smoother aswell :D |
Originally Posted by Artikbot
(Post 9562404)
Yep :nod:
People hate the stock wooden tires. I like em :nod: @midnight: The RX8 is plenty enough, but I'd rather choose other ESCs instead of it... Much cheaper ones, you don't need such a monster for an SCT. The Xerun 120A is fine, and has great tuning options. I personally love the MMP. As for the motor, I'm a firm defender of the Tenshock 401 and the Neu Castle 1410, they are much lighter than a 550 and have the same if not more torque. Plus they are smoother aswell :D the xerun 120amp is very solid, and 87$ at hobbypartz. Then i would order the new tekin pro4 sensored 4pole motor! |
Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
(Post 9562333)
How big is your track?
stick with a 5.5 or a 4.5 rx8 is fine with 2s and is fine in a sc104x4 Adams Creek in Tulsa is a smaller track, but Mike's in Dallas is bigger... So I will have to have two different setups... |
OK, in regards to the wheel width discussion a few pages back:
I'll let you in on my secret.......... Slash front wheel hexes all the way around with DE wheels. 1: You will need shorter pins (or sand a little off of the stock ones. 2: STRC or Stock plastic units work just fine after drilling for axle clearance. 3: DE Trinidad wheels for SC10 4x4! 4: Short serrated (TC Style) wheel nuts This all equals out to 296mm. |
Ask Harjo or Burns whats good to run at the Creek. On a track that small you can probably get away with running a 6.5 but when you guys come over for the Ok/KS shootout you will want that 5.5. I think most of the guys at mikes is running a 4.5-5.5.
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Originally Posted by Midnight
(Post 9562526)
Ask Harjo or Burns whats good to run at the Creek. On a track that small you can probably get away with running a 6.5 but when you guys come over for the Ok/KS shootout you will want that 5.5. I think most of the guys at mikes is running a 4.5-5.5.
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So more or less just get the 5.5 and the 4.5 and change setup depending? I mean in the grand scheme of things the $125 for the extra motor isn't going to sink the ship. If it does I guess you need to find a new hobby... Also do you guys have any clue what the baseline setup for either Mikes or Adams creek is for SCT? I just want to have a baseline to start from so I'm not shooting completely in the dark...
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stock truck is 293mm wide
hazard wheels add 1.5mm per side for total of ROAR max 296mm Blitz wheels add 2mm per side for a total of 298mm , 2mm over roar legal width also, run a high torque pad in the outside of the clutch basket and a stock on the inside of the basket and a high torque for the front belt, it helps keep the outer pad keep straight as it doesn't slip as much as the non-high torque pad and tend to rotate and curve around the steel plate |
Originally Posted by dstrus
(Post 9563081)
So more or less just get the 5.5 and the 4.5 and change setup depending? I mean in the grand scheme of things the $125 for the extra motor isn't going to sink the ship. If it does I guess you need to find a new hobby... Also do you guys have any clue what the baseline setup for either Mikes or Adams creek is for SCT? I just want to have a baseline to start from so I'm not shooting completely in the dark...
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Originally Posted by dstrus
(Post 9563081)
So more or less just get the 5.5 and the 4.5 and change setup depending? I mean in the grand scheme of things the $125 for the extra motor isn't going to sink the ship. If it does I guess you need to find a new hobby... Also do you guys have any clue what the baseline setup for either Mikes or Adams creek is for SCT? I just want to have a baseline to start from so I'm not shooting completely in the dark...
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Off to try the car with a 4oz iron slug in front of the ESC besides the battery :tire:
Edit: Wo. Ah. The truck felt much more predictable while steering on-power... This is how saddlepack drivers feel like...? If so, when my IP LiPo dies... I'll simply buy a saddle and get it sorted. |
Originally Posted by Eli
(Post 9561669)
Its a 3600kv 4 pole cordova or c.r. motor. We sell them in the shop, local guy makes them, he used to be affiliated with neu motors. Its not sensored and it is still smooth.
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Well done 4-pole sensorless motors only differ from sensored in the fact that they have an almost unnoticeable coggy startup. Ah, and they have waay longer runtimes aswell due to the fact that sensorless mode is MUCH more efficient than sensored.
In fact, I've been crawling with the SC10 4x4 this evening, climbing steep 60º rocky ramps, driving on very very very rocky surfaces with lots of obstacles, with the 1410 sensorless. I didn't even notice it was sensorless. It walked over the rocks, ramps, and everything I threw it at, with an amazing easiness, as if it was made for that. |
has anyone added weight to there trucks? the track i race at its being taking over by the losi 4x4 and the only thing i see helping them is weight..
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
(Post 9539409)
Have you tried adding weight to the truck? By Me adding weight to my truck, I was able to go about 12 seconds faster over 5 minutes. It was easier to drive, more consistent and yielded faster lap times.
Originally Posted by jamie ferrell
(Post 9556236)
Just thought i would fill my fellow sc10 4x4 brothers in on a great setup to achieve yet another adjustable feature to a great truck! I race around Indianapolis on a few mid grip tracks and as you know the sc10 4x4 is much lighter than the competition. Some of us on here have been adding weight to the truck to bring it up to a more forgiving truck on these type of tracks. Adding saddle packs to balance the truck is also key.
I came up with an adjustable weight bias nerf bar made from 1/4 carbon fiber that replaces existing oem nerfs. I first made the truck scale out with a molded lead piece opposite the motor so even with no nerf leads I am scaled out even dead on. Then I melted and molded a couple leads for the side nerfs. The leads can be slid back and fourth for more front or rear bias according to the track conditions and the flight of the truck. Total weight of the truck is now up to 6.6lbs bringing it up to the losi weight and making this truck AWESOME to drive. We race with some top notch 4x4 guys around here and this truck has yet to be beat! ENJOY!!
Originally Posted by Artikbot
(Post 9563561)
Off to try the car with a 4oz iron slug in front of the ESC besides the battery :tire:
Edit: Wo. Ah. The truck felt much more predictable while steering on-power... This is how saddlepack drivers feel like...? If so, when my IP LiPo dies... I'll simply buy a saddle and get it sorted. Adding weight helps stabilizing the truck, although I'd rather play with the batteries instead. Tests are satisfactory nonetheless. Shortie LiPos are maybe the way to go, since they focus the weight onto the front drivetrain, what most of us do when we add weight. |
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