Hey Mike! Yes of course I remember you! Thanks a lot! My truck was running pretty good that day...I hope to make it back to sdrc soon, I had a great time! Always feel free to ask any questions any time! I think my truck needed just a little more steering...we'll see how it goes next time :nod:. Eli & Mike had a great run too, those guys are fast!

Anybody got a good PN for steel axle shims?

Kyosho makes a 6mm axke shim kit that has .03, .02, .01 in it. I will try and get a part number for it.

Jamie, that is a very interesting set up. Are those two 2s Lipo's ran in parallel? They look like actual size batteries. I am interested also in the carbon fiber parts you have there, Any chance you can make a thread with some more detail and pics of all the parts involved? I really want to give that set-up a try. Heck I would pay you for those parts, I have my Son's and my SC-10 4x4 to give it a try on. PM me maybe we could work something out. Let me know...:tire::tire::tire:

Holy crap Jamie what a piece of artwork!

Have you tried with different weights? Did the heavier ones yield the best results?

Yeah the best so far is 2 oz on each nerf and the molded slug opposite the motor which is almost 3 oz. To mold the one by the motor I used tin foil and pushed it down in all the cracks and made a nice mold that i removed and just poured the lead into. Worked great! I ended up moving the weights on the nerfs back all night further and further and the truck just got better and better all night.

I can now drive the thing more consistently harder and not worry about tip toeing. With the weight out further than most from the center line....I ended up going with the heavy sway bar up front and yellow springs. (move leverage with weight out further results in being able to stiffen car up which results in a much more forgiving ride)

It may not be the belt at all then. Make sure you have washers on all 6 "drivers side" belt shroud screws. You cannot over tighten these screws or they bind the transmission. Get them snug, then back off a little.

Yeh, as much as I would like to do the saddle pack configuration, it's gonna be
a $175 upgrade with the purchase of a new battery and B44 hardware. I think I will stick with the traditional set up.

+1....

Saddle packs at hobbypartz.com range from $28 to $35. The b44.1 hardware is steep, best I found was around $50.

I'm going to find another way to mount mine. I found some pan car lipo mounts, real simple blocks and velcro straps. The blocks are like $5 and velcro straps are cheap.

Doing a little ebay hunting netted me 2 sets of gen ace packs for $30 and the other hardware should put me around $40.

AnyOne have a source for some 1/4" carbon rod? The one I made out of threaded rod was bent. :eek: Just goes to show how much chassis flex this truck has....

Is there something I missed about the chassi flex???? does it diminish performance??

Yes. The flex distorts the belt tunnel plastic, which causes the belt alignment problems some users report, which manifests itself by tossing the belt.

Ok, thanks.... since I havent had that problem its nothing to worry about. i must be a lucky one, i havent had slipper problems or belt problems, and my kit was from the first batch. I still have the plastic wheel hexes too. and I have beat the living hell out of this truck, I let anyone drive it and tell them to like its theirs...:batman: Oh, and the nly part i have broken was a shock end, which contributed to bending a front dogbone.

Ok. If this ha been discust earlier I apologize. But let's say that you have already installed the light weight Ti turnbuckles, and screw kit. Can't you take the made up weight and add it to the front of the truck to off set the battery weight. Without making it as heavy as a tank?And having proper weight distribution