I made some changes yesterday to my truck and boy did it make a diffrance. I was having trouble getting the rear end to hook up. it would come around on me kind of easy. so yesterday before the races i changed the front sway bars to the 2.2 bars and the rear to the thinest bar, and changed the shocks to emultion with 35wt in front and 30 wt in rear, ran -1 degree camber in front and -2 in rear. truck was alot more planted and was really cosistant. set ride height at 25mm. truck was pulling crazy rear bumper wheelies. but stayed in control. now to tweek it a little more and this thing will be incredible.

I own all three motors, the ballistic 4.5 is faster than the 3800 in every way, the ballistic 5.5 is a closer match to the 3800kv. Add a little timing to the 5.5 or gear up a tooth or two or both. Watch your temps! The 4.5 and 5.5 also have way less drag off throttle. The hi torque rotor adds alot of drag IMO, I didn't like it. As you can see opinions vary.

Which of those changes do you think helped most? What type of track surface were you running on?

I had been fighting getting the rear to lock up better coming out of corners and around the sweeper before the straight. Changing the rear camber link to the inner hole on the rear hub helped more than springs and shock locations did. This is on a track with loose dirt on top so you slide around some anyway but the camber change made it more consistent to handle.

inner being A B or C ?

Works great controlling fore & aft flex , easy to install...

125mm Ti Rod

c I think, its the inner most one what ever that is.

nice tidy job , just a thought , did you consider using the front overtray screw mount instead ? I know you will need a longer shaft = more weight etc. but I would like to avoid drilling more holes. Dont get me wrong , that looks factory , just the wheels in my head keep spinning.....

I tryed gearing up it made it slower. When I gear down it is faster and more consistant I have not tryed any timing in the motor at all so maybe I will try that.

Anybod try adding weight to the middle chassis area

Trying to make it corner faster and land better

[QUOTE=northkona;9494805]nice tidy job , just a thought , did you consider using the front overtray screw mount instead ? I know you will need a longer shaft = more weight etc. but I would like to avoid drilling more holes. Dont get me wrong , that looks factory , just the wheels in my head keep spinning.....[/QUOTE


Longer shaft required for the over tray mount method, and there are no Ti rods I know of long enough to span ...

Not all that big of a challenge to drill the hole for the nose plate, You do have to grind the ridge under the plate to mount a lock nut.

also grounded down a little the back stud mount on the rear trans brace.....

For you guys running these 540 motors i have a question. I tried a brand new never run 540 6.5 viper motor today geared 17/93 and it lasted literally 4 minutes of a 5 minute qualifier before going over 200 and melting down. No timing was used on the motor or speed control It felt awesome speed wise for the 4 minutes up until it cooked.

thats what ive been struggling with since.....well, i built the truck ive tried changing shock angles, pistons, oil, ride height, swaybars....the back of the truck is just VERY loose. i havent changed the camber link on the rear hub (in the center hole), so i will try that. anyone have other ideas??

cheers, my diffs are due for service so I might check out the front mount while its apart.

nice. i like that. i considered doing something with a large turnbuckle like that, but CF rods are so much lighter. however, yours is easier to work around if someone wants to run an under-body.