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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

racene1 07-01-2011 01:38 AM


Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 9330890)
Has anybody considered ditching the receiver box, and stuffing saddle packs (or Losi's shorty 60C/3800 lipo sideways) in the back of the chassis rather than having the left and right segregated?

http://rcinsider.com/wp-content/uplo...8338369111.jpg
I think it is being done.

racene1 07-01-2011 01:52 AM

I just ordered 2 rear from absolute hobbyz. :nod:
im still selling 2 front for $25 shipped to the lower 48.

jpure009 07-01-2011 02:02 AM


Originally Posted by MasiisaM (Post 9323634)
Looks like both the front and rear sway's are in at A-main....

They are gone already

Farmer_John 07-01-2011 02:27 AM


Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 9330890)
OK guys, ThunderbirdJunkie has some what-might-be-stupid questions for you.

The ballstuds you guys are spacing up...couldn't find it with a search of the thread, so please direct ThunderbirdJunkie to the answer if it has been covered...is it the front or rear?

The rear inside tire seems to lift first, so ThunderbirdJunkie is currently stuffing 6mm of spacers under the front inner ballstuds and 3mm in the rear. Does this seem reasonable? The inner ballstuds also seem to be disagreeing with this 6mm spacing, and ThunderbirdJunkie needs a ballstud with longer thread...is this available? Do you think 3mm on both ends will suffice?

Got the front swaybar set today....going to install that too.

Farmer John has found that taking Associated's desired roll center and lowering it evenly on both ends has produced the best results...for Farmer John. Remember, the lower the roll center, the more resistant the chassis will be to roll...

Farmer John tried to numb the front end further with more spacers, but for Farmer John it just unbalanced the truck and made it's handling worse than if Farmer John had just left it be.

rcracenut 07-01-2011 03:36 AM


Originally Posted by Farmer_John (Post 9331145)
Farmer John has found that taking Associated's desired roll center and lowering it evenly on both ends has produced the best results...for Farmer John. Remember, the lower the roll center, the more resistant the chassis will be to roll...

Farmer John tried to numb the front end further with more spacers, but for Farmer John it just unbalanced the truck and made it's handling worse than if Farmer John had just left it be.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:Rcracenut thinks this is funny.

Mac The Knife 07-01-2011 05:40 AM


Originally Posted by rcracenut (Post 9331259)
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:Rcracenut thinks this is funny.

Mac The Knife thinks so to.

northkona 07-01-2011 05:41 AM

over trays
 
I found a guy in Canada selling overtrays for the SC10 4x4 with a driver moulded into it on E-bay , sorry I cant post the link so copy/paste this . looks like a cool way to keep the crud out.




SC10 4X4 INTERIOR DRIVER TOP COVER OVER TRAY

dagsom 07-01-2011 06:36 AM


Originally Posted by northkona (Post 9331542)
I found a guy in Canada selling overtrays for the SC10 4x4 with a driver moulded into it on E-bay , sorry I cant post the link so copy/paste this . looks like a cool way to keep the crud out.




SC10 4X4 INTERIOR DRIVER TOP COVER OVER TRAY

Thanks for the find.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SC10-4X4-INTERIO...item2311a8cc0d

MasiisaM 07-01-2011 07:26 AM

The overtray looks cool...but with no air flowing over both the ESC and motor I would think heat would become an issue...

MadRussian 07-01-2011 07:34 AM


Originally Posted by MasiisaM (Post 9331901)
The overtray looks cool...but with no air flowing over both the ESC and motor I would think heat would become an issue...

Not to mention it looks like the tires would hit it, and it looks like it doesnt seal properly, and where are the holes for the body pins?
I will wait on TA's

BlueGlowBoy 07-01-2011 07:41 AM


Originally Posted by MadRussian (Post 9331930)
and where are the holes for the body pins?

Other points are somewhat valid....and so far I have barely picked up anything inside my chassis on the track I mainly run at....

But have you ever heard of something called a "body reamer"?

Also, this does more for keeping dirt out than the Pro-Line driver....plus "not sealing properly" was probably done on purpose to help with air flow, which will help with the cooling problem mentioned...

Just sayin' ;)

Toiffel 07-01-2011 07:50 AM

One thing I have noticed is the insane amount of dirt that gets inside all around the chassis, granted that only happens when I run it on a track with loose dirt, but it really seemed I had at least 1/2 pound of extra weight on it!!!

On a different note I was able to try out the f/r sway bars, I really liked how much harder I was able to drive, specially into the turns.... Having a blast with my truck !!

Robotech 07-01-2011 09:30 AM


Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 9330890)
OK guys, ThunderbirdJunkie has some what-might-be-stupid questions for you.

The ballstuds you guys are spacing up...couldn't find it with a search of the thread, so please direct ThunderbirdJunkie to the answer if it has been covered...is it the front or rear?

The rear inside tire seems to lift first, so ThunderbirdJunkie is currently stuffing 6mm of spacers under the front inner ballstuds and 3mm in the rear. Does this seem reasonable? The inner ballstuds also seem to be disagreeing with this 6mm spacing, and ThunderbirdJunkie needs a ballstud with longer thread...is this available? Do you think 3mm on both ends will suffice?

Just wondering TBJ, have you lengthened the back shocks the 3 turns many are talking about? That might be something to think about and try if you haven't. Sway bars should help and lowering the roll center will help too. (So remember, those who may be reading since I'm pretty sure TBJ knows this, one change at a time...LOL)

Now, since I'm anal about my shock length (it's an On-Road thing) does anyone who has lengthened their rear shocks by this "three turns out" have an overall length in mm of their rear shocks (measured at full extension from the very top of the shock to the very bottom...not eye to eye)?

JayL 07-01-2011 09:45 AM

I got the 12mm ti ni front inner ballstud, 2mm longer, and run 4.5mm shims with 7mm OD for stability.

I run the tekin rx8/sc4x 4.5t with the 13t and it runs 125degrees every race on three different tracks

beenaround 07-01-2011 09:52 AM


Originally Posted by Toiffel (Post 9331987)
One thing I have noticed is the insane amount of dirt that gets inside all around the chassis, granted that only happens when I run it on a track with loose dirt, but it really seemed I had at least 1/2 pound of extra weight on it!!!

On a different note I was able to try out the f/r sway bars, I really liked how much harder I was able to drive, specially into the turns.... Having a blast with my truck !!

All of this- I have tons of crap in the truck when I pull it off the track or from where ever im messing around with it.

And I cant wait to get the Sway's. I found the front and rear at Absolute Hobbyz this morning.


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