The motor I was looking at is a 3800kv

honestly the gearing range is such on the vehicle that if it was me and I didn't want to mesh with cutting open the motor mount to have more range with the pinion sizes I would get a 4600Kv motor like the Tekin Pro4 4600. Or, if you want a beast of a motor the Hobbywing 4700kv motor would do the trick.

If you stick with motors in the more 4000ish range, then I found that I would run a slight amount of timing on the upper rpm ranges to get the top end speed back I wanted without having to fight with the gearing.

This of course is assuming 2S usage.

honestly the gearing range is such on the vehicle that if it was me and I didn't want to mesh with cutting open the motor mount to have more range with the pinion sizes I would get a 4600Kv motor like the Tekin Pro4 4600. Or, if you want a beast of a motor the Hobbywing 4700kv motor would do the trick.

If you stick with motors in the more 4000ish range, then I found that I would run a slight amount of timing on the upper rpm ranges to get the top end speed back I wanted without having to fight with the gearing.

This of course is assuming 2S usage.

Welch189, I have used the Castle 3800kv motor in the SC10 4x4 with no problems with the same ESC (Castle sidewinder) you are talking about, although I did upgrade it to the mamba max pro. But to answer your question I think that the 3800kv motor is a good one for this chasis.

Thanks again guys. I had been looking at the Mamba Max Pro, but for all I want it for I'm prob gonna go with the sidewinder for now. I don't do any racing right now , just want a good motor in the mid range price level. I have a Sidewinder 3 ESC in my Arrma raider and it runs good. From what I hear, I should go with a high quality super reliable servo because its hard to get to. Once I get the whole thing together and running, I will see where to go from there.

Picked up a castle 3800kv. When mounting it should I use the screws provided or the screws with spacers I was using stock that's in the manual?

I usually use the mounting screws that look the best to me, meaning the set the looks like it can handle the job the best, usually the ones provided with the motor.

My sweet spot is a 4300KV 545 motor. I just ran the truck at my track (didn't race just practice wanna make sure it's dialed before I race) and it handles great. I switched the battery pack to a square pack up front and the truck jumps perfectly very balanced, no nose dive or rear landing.

Is it normal for this truck to leak diff fluid or it's time to replace the diff casings.

M03Racer, I would recommend changing the diff housing/casing with the newer style that has black output tubes instead of the copper ones if you have not done so yet where the outdrives go into, but it could also be just the diff gasket and out drive seals. But as the housing is not that expensive I would go with the complete job.

I actually went and ordered the aluminum diff gear casings I think these will last longer. The problem I was having is some of the screws got stripped with the plastic gear casings and I guess the diff was not sealing right anymore and started to leak diff oil.

Also get the .5mm diff shims (#9888) for behind the diff gears, diffs will last much longer.

Hey, I am a Space Cowboy and didn't realize this vehicle was discontinued till I read this thread. I've had this car since it was introduced but never raced it as my attention span goes into warp speed in other directions. I bash on a bumpy City RC Park that is not maintained. In the Summer it is almost undriveable due to loomy sand from the river bed. Now that Fall is coming I want to go every weekend and play. I have gone through a lot of issues to keep it running and now I have a slippery clutch. I just replaced the front clicker and have the belt tensioners in their furthest positions. Is their something I can do to the fiber clutch discs to get it running for the weekend. I just ordered the Factory Team clutch online and it will come in a week or so. There was one that had a lot of glaze on it but it cleaned up pretty good with alchohol. I also cleaned everything else up to while I am at it. Now for the next run.

I would check with RC Shox and see if they still have the garolite discs. That will make a big difference as they don't fade.

If they have the ball diff thats an even better upgrade but at a minimum the garolite discs are what you want. MantisWorx on rctech is the owner.

If you have issues where you tensioners are at the max level and still have something going on with the belt, maybe put in a new belt?

My belt was at MAX settings for tightness. I cleaned one of the pads with alcohol cuz it had scuff marks on it. I had it almost on full lock the last time I ran it. I have a new belt and now have the VTX upgrade clutch kit. I have yet to go to the track and run it with the cleaned pads. I like to see incremental change in improvement. Since I am not on the racing circuit I don't like to fix things till their broke. Thanks for advise I'll keep it under my hat.