once again i apologize for my foul mouth........i never once said the cdiff sucked i said it wasnt for me and my statement about wasting money was not meant to sway him in one direction it was meant to help him understand that many people waste money buy what the next guy is buying just because it worked for him or 50 other people.......i came up driving 2wd stadium trucks (rc10) back in the days and thought i would never go electric in fact hated electric but look at me now.....i am all about electric because of driving someone elses rig and seeing the potential of electric......i have learned alot from this forum and others and dont mean to come off like a total anus :rolleyes: so i apologize and wish you all a great day of racing.......even i forget sometimes that i got into this hobby because it is fun................p iii

There was heated discussion in a 1/8 onroad buggy thread that got closed, Marcus and maybe others got a timeout. Probably a month... don't know.
It wasn't that bad IMO but it kept going around in circles and I think a mod just felt it best to shut it down. One of the participants posted a PM that Marcus sent that was not foul but not nice either.
A PM should stay a PM and if you don't want to converse with the person after that don't. Put them on ignore list. But the other side, remember that it's real easy for the recipient to copy past a pm to the thread. :D

That a tazer WC? Found those to be nice on dusty tracks with just a small amount of loose stuff. Anything looser and the enduros seem good for me.

Am I the only one that misses the nice big spikes that were popular in the old'n days? My Kyosho Javalin had some rippers :lol:

no worries. If you still have the product, I would love to hear more what you found, maybe we can help ?

Also, still would like to know where you run, conditions etc. Since you do run the VTS slipper, if the conditions are where guys are having trouble, your advice could be invaluable.

lol, I miss the mad max style tires too. For the whole vintage class that is one thing I think people are missing on is using modern rubber. Its vintage, should use the vintage tire and experience how it used to be.

Why aren't there more SC10 4x4's out there?
I bought a used one a few months back, immediately tore it down and started designing an out of the box aluminum chassis kit before realizing I'd wind up with a really nice product for a nice vehicle that just won't sell. Put it together as stock and ran 2-packs thru it at the former Holeshot Raceway in Sanford, FL. I know it cannot be wedged into and out of turns as hard as my SSC Slash 4x4 but a belt driven vehicle is for smooth driving and that it does well. We know it can handle the bumps too since Max F. took 1st place with one at PNB2013. So why aren't there more out there? I was in California at Palm Desert, IERC & OCRC in September and didn't see a single AE SC10 4x4. So what's the deal? Personally, I'd like to see the SC10 4x4 suspsension components from the hinge pins out, mounted onto an SSC v2 split top plate setup (v2 SSC came in a few ounces lighter than the AE SC10 4x4). And then a belt version of a similar chassis platform......

It is becouse ae won't post a set up for blown out takes and out of the box setup it's a hand fole in door that's all different

Talking to people who competed at the race with Max and what driving technique he used which sounded like he rolled a lot of the bigger jumps wisely versus going for it. That is also the impression I get from this article as well:

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/r...ho_Nitro_Blast

The thing from what I am understanding and seeing myself is that on really big jumps, the type you see on 1/8 scale tracks is the SC10 4x4 can have pitch control issues in stock form. I personally found that if I didn't hit one of the larger jumps just right, it would come off inconsistent.

Now, this happens to other vehicles too don't get me wrong, but with the sc10 4x4 it was hard to save a bad nose up or nose down condition jump versus what seems to be prevalent with 3 diff equipped cars.

When I got the rc shox ball diff, it became a bit easier to control pitch, but no where near what I am seeing now with my Tekno or what other competing vehicles are able to do. Its an area that is a quirk of the vehicle in my opinion.

One smaller jumps, probably true 1/10 scale sized stuff its probably a non-issue.

One thing that was interesting that the owner of RC Shox was working on was basically a "counter gear" setup between the motor and spur.

From what he said, he got it such that pitch control was as good as the other vehicles, but kept destroying the gear.

Maybe it is something someone can look into again? I am wondering if a beefed up motor plate (I believe he was using the stock one) with this change could be what is needed. maybe the gear was getting chewed up do to flex in that area?

Outside of that, the truck is a bit more effort to work on than other vehicles since you need to dissassemble more of it to get to the diffs and servo.

If AE does a revision to an SC10 4x4 V2 I think that would be a welcomed area to look into addressing.

But as I have said before, the vehicle has lots of potential, and is killer indoors. Its the big 1/8 stuff where its been a common complaint about jump handling issues.

lastly, looking at max's setup, he posted that he is not using the stock AE pistons, anyone got a link to these pistons he is using as on initial pass on M2C site I didn't see anything listed like that.

Also, he is using the +8mm mod, which, considering some opinions believe its to take away traction is an odd thing to do if you are on a Indoors, loamy, dusty, bumpy, low traction surface as described in the setup sheet if that was true. But, based on what I saw in my testing, makes sense as I felt I gained alittle more traction when using it.

I know 1st hand entering the PNB off the sweeper my v1 ssc Slash 4x4 was coming around Max's SC10 4x4 (he was on the inside and about 30' ahead of me at first). He wasn't having it and pushed his SC10 4x4 into a spin-out landing right in front of my truck on a T against the pit lane wall about mid straight. All I could do was let off and burp my truck to jump over him. So he took me out intentionally while passing me back in the infield. I wasn't out to prove anything to him, just haven't seen a truck outperform my truck in high speed sweepers and into and out of straightaways. The big jump bought 0.5-1.5seconds when I hit it now and then (overshooting it was my fear).

I didn't realize there was an in-air pitch control issue since it wasn't an issue on Holeshot's smaller indoor jumps. However, my re-design of the motor plate for other reasons, would definitely solve that issue (shifted motor forward among other design features that aid in heat and load dissipation). My Serpent 811e had a similar access issue to the steering servo and some folks requested I include servo screw/link access holes on my SSC's bottom plate (like STRC does). If its built right with locktite, quick access shouldn't be a necessary design feature. I don't see anymore in Florida but thought I'd see at least one SC10 4x4 in California. Its too bad cause I commend AE for taking such an out-of-box design approach v. converting an existing vehicle, but they missed the mark with the chassis design. Is the +8 mod just moving the rear hubs all the way back? If not, what is it? My hubs are all the way back and it feels right (since the motor is towards the back anyway). Wonder if AE will move in the direction of their Pro Lite sc4x4 w/flipped Slash 4x4 drivetrain layout or revise their SC10 4x4 chassis.....

the +8mm mod basically uses the C hub risers found on the B4 line of vehicles to raise up the camber link on the rear. You also raise up the link to about 7mm on the rear tower as well (you will want the longer ball studs to do this).

You can also get the same effect in a way using different carriers that either have a riser on them (Hot Racing style that TOAD RC Sells) or the exotek carriers. The nice thing with the exoteks that I personally like is that I can have more adjustment if I want by adding shims as I desire.

This is a mod that have 2 schools of thought on it. Some believe it will lessen traction on the rear, others (myself from testing here) believe it will give you more traction.

Its a mod that is worth testing to come to your own conclusions. For me, I believe the part that feels like it takes away traction is the inner ball stud height as on carpet to get rid of traction rolling, I raised that location to about 5 or 6mm.

I think a great way to test it is to set a position on the inner ball stud, say 5mm, then test stock. Then, put on the risers leaving the inner position and see what happens.

in air pitch control is something that was a real annoyance for me. On some of the pro videos I have seen youtube, I noticed it there too where the vehicle just kind of hangs up there nose up and doesn't want to come down which on other vehicles if you slam the brakes you can drop the nose.

I would love to see what you were thinking for design on the sc10 4x4.

I would love to see a 4 gear tranny (rear) option and a factory center diff. In my opinion this would make the truck perfect.

Tips using the rear camber mod
 

Raising the inside camber stud with camber mod makes for less rear chassis roll at the expense of some grip....

Lowering the inside stud makes for more grip but truck will have more rear chassis roll in the corner's ..

***This tip is not made with a guess & based on using

very little track time and experience with the Sc10 4x4.

The in air altitude control was the reason I sold my first SC10 4x4. I had absolutely no in air control using the stock slipper setup. Whereas my Losi SCTE could do a front flip if I hit the brakes while in the air. This improved when I got my FT SC10 4x4 and added the cDiff, but it is still not on the same level of altitude control as a Losi, Tekno, Durango. I think it has to do with the motor configuration (all the others are inline and the AE is transverse so the motor rotation has a more notable effect on handling.

Shark,

I can control the truck in the air with the throttle just like all my other rides ...;)

Don't understand why you cannot so please explain ...

Yup, that is the same experience I have had and have stated as such all along. Its the same principle with or without the riser on the hub for what I have seen.

The question at that point becomes what are you gaining exactly by raising the linkage height on the hub itself, independent (or use a static position on the tower) for the camber link hub. Also, what is the overall effect by doing the full mod. that has what has been debated previously, and what you mentioned that you would get a video from BK explaining.

:nod:


What track are you running on specifically that have 1/8 scale jumps? That is where the issue comes up, not on small jump indoor stuff for the track you run on. It was a non issue when I ran indoors carpet, but became an issue when I moved to 1/8 outdoor sized tracks.

WC, when in the air tapping (or even full brake) the brake does not bring the nose down as much as it does in a inline motor, three diff truck like the Losi, Tekno or Durango. This happens with both the slipper and cDiff configurations (in the SC10 4x4). And yes I know some say they can control the SC10 4x4 just fine (may be they have not tried an Losi SCTE or Tekno SCT410) but in my case it is a very noticeable difference. And several other SC10 4x4 drivers (and former drivers) in my area have noticed the same issue. If I remember correctly, I did a test where I held my SC10 4x4 in my hand and hit the throttle then braked hard, I could feel the truck torque/nose down a little. When I did the same thing with my Losi SCTE it almost flew out of my hands because it had so much forward torque.

So could you explain why with two different SC10 4x4's (my original and my FT) with different configurations (slipper, clutch basket, cDiff, locked diff, different diff oils, etc) I had this issue with altitude control not being as strong as other trucks.