Question for you guys

I went and bought the .8 mod pinions because thats all the LHS had (I'm running the stock 32p spur) and after about 15 packs of batteries on high bite clay indoor track, my truck progressively got louder. My mesh is still the same, the spur gear looks fine, but when i put in a new spur, its whispering again...like the jetson mobile.
I tried researching, and everyone said they work fine, but no one mentioned what they experienced in the long run.
From what i read, there just under 1% difference in pitch between the 32p and .8 mod.

I had the same problem with mine. I bought the Novak .8 mod pinion set and chewed up several spurs before I realized what was was wrong. My truck sounded like two skeletons screwing on a tin roof. I bought an Associated 32p pinion and now it sneaks past the competition all stealth-like. Take a close look at the new and old spurs and you'll see the difference.

Today arrived new wheels. I think it looks much better than with black and smaller Associated wheels. :)

What kind of surface do you run on.

I'm sure this has been asked before but has anyone used those cheap Solar servos from hobby partz?

I broke my DS1015 and don't really have the cash to replace it.

This is the one I was thinking about. http://www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d771.html


Thanks: Steve

Grass and a wet loam.

I do not now about that servo, but if your servo is broke and it only the gears, get a gear set for it. Most likely the plastic gear went in it.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Servo-Gear-Set

If anyone is looking for parts, I acquired a large amount of spares and do not have the truck anymore. Spares include arms, swaybars front and rear, full HD turnbuckle set, spare ball cups, belts, slipper pieces, front and rear gearboxes still in package, front and rear uprights, and a lot more. $100 shipped takes the whole thing. PM me with an email or phone number to text a picture to. Thanks

Newdieselguy, in my experience you get what you pay for,
especially in this hobby. I have ordered a few things from hobbypartz
And none of them lasted long, actually in the long run and actually end
up being more expensive as time is wasted and you end up getting the
Servo you had in mind anyway. Best bet is stick with a brand name
servo or any part for that matter.

I couldn't agree more. The servo is one of the more annoying items to replace on this truck so I'd buy a better servo. Savox is about as buget of a servo as I would buy. Im running a savox 1257 titanium gear in mine with no problems. Jr z8800s in my other sc10 4x4. Dont forget a little dab of blue loctight the servo horn screw. Might as well do the b4 servo mount mod while your in there.

Jstall, I agree with you on the savox, I have a 1256tg in mine and
since I installed it in August 2011 I have has no issues with it. Newdieselguy, check out
Savox especially the 12xx series they are decently priced and pretty darn good quality. I know sometimes this hobby can get
Expensive but the headache of removing the servo after you
Realize you got a bad one is easily off set if you just go with a quality
model. Please stay away from hobbypartz, they have bad customer servi e
and bad quality products. I have nothing against the Chinese, but they
have zero quality control, all of hobbypartz products are made in China, not a good thing.

I took my truck out the other day, after I fixed the servo saver after a month of being broken :lol: I've been busy lol, everything was running well till my rear shock rod came out due to not having piston screw loc tited, luckily nothing was lost, not bad considering I ran this truck for 8 months without issue. I loc tited it and now 24 hours later I am putting shock oil in.
Can't help but notice the piston seems to be rubbing interior of shock body, causing stiction? When the piston and piston rod are outside shock body they move freely, but when inserted in shock body, the shock is noticeably stiffer.

I finally have my truck hitting jumps right and flying nicely. I added no weight, even though I bought the $30 TC3 brass weights, they aren't needed as my shoo goo and drywall tape repair of my body added enough weight to the front evenly distributed so they weren't needed. I leave the jump flat and depending on distance can lift or drop my nose with throttle or brake easily. No more nose high take offs and cartwheel crashes.

I am running
Exotek Chassis V.2
Exotek hubs center hole 4mm of washers
RC Shox Center Diff V.2 6 pins
7k front diff 5k rear diff
yellow springs in front and blue front springs in the rear
32.5 weight in the front and 27.5 in the rear.
front and rear shock towers center hole, lower arms outer hole
front ballstud 2.5mm outer hole, rear ballstud 7mm inner hole and 4mm on hubs
M2C toe block 3.5
white front sway bar / blue rear sway bar
-2 camber all around
ride height 24mm front 22mm rear
J concepts Barcodes Green
Tekin RX8 10 drag,85 current limiter,50 brakes, linear curve, geared 14/60
Tekin Pro 4 4600
temps esc 110 motor 149
Savox 1258 TG
Spektrum DX3R Pro


I wonder if I need to switch to different color sway bars? Any suggestions from fellow exotek chassis users? My truck is easier to control in air since I can actually control it now, but I feel like my suspension needs a little looksy.

RE; shock piston rubbing inside body
 

Make sure the shock cartridge is not cross threaded... the piston will drag on one side if it is.

I run 30wt in the front with yellow springs and 27.5wt with blue rear springs on the rear.

For sway bars, I use blue in the front and orange in the rear and it's like it's on rails.

I ran one of the Solars for the last couple months in a Jammin 4x4. It's a little slow but it works.