The Xerun SCT Pro can be had with a 4000KV motor too for the same price.
I don't know about the bigger pinion not fitting, I was thinking they would. But I really don't know.
I'm afraid the 4000KV would cut down on run time, would that be correct ??

Just got home from testing V3 pistons! Very promising:sneaky:
few more minor adjustments and they will be ready. In a nutshell i have dropped the holes down to 2x1.6C and 2x1.7 rebound. Initial testing has been great but they tend to overpack off of hard flat landings but otherwise they are very stable on landings and jump very well I have laready chanegd the rest of my piston line to two hole and these will be the same, for some reason 2 large holes work better and are more versatile. they are easy to adjust to smooth and rough tracks.

Honestly I don't think the savings you would see would be drastic versus the performance you are wanting. I would personally just go with a 4000kv motor.

Good stuff! The V2s were excellent, really enjoyed them on a variety of conditions.

I thought Tekin doesn't recommend 3s on the 4000kv pro4, on 2s the 4000 has a little more snap but the 1410 on 3s if perfect for ripping! Also with 14t pinion it rails with good temps. The trucks boring as a basher on 2s Imo! If you go 2s for bashing then I'd go 4600kv

Would a MMP pull a Reedy sonic 550 4.0t

Sorry for another question, but never run big motor high KV's before. On 2s with a 4600KV (for bashing) how would it compare to the SC10 4x4 3500KV (stock) motor as far as performance AND run time. Or would the 1410 3800KV be a better choice. What I really want is to build the SC10 Kit with a better motor and ESC then the RTR. And run on 2s mostly bashing.
Thanks for the help

Jstall, does the eco power 3s fit in the SC10 ok ?
Great video !
Thanks

Anyone have opinions on the aluminum hinge pin holder on the back?
I hear the plastic ones are the weak link to this truck.
I have the #3 plastic block on mine. If I break it I'll buy an aluminum one.

I never had durability issues. The main change I made on the hingepin holder was to the get the benefits of the M2C toe in block.

they're bombproof. Only reason to buy a M2C-Block is to get more setup-possibilitys

Never broken a kit toe block yet ..


the stock rear toe (3 degree)is all you need for most track conditions .
More toe then 3 degree can slow the corner speed & make the
bumps feel even bumpier .


Extra toe is good if you are running on loose ,dry& dusty tracks .
The extra toe helps make for more traction.
Med & higher grip a 3 degree rules however...

Hi, this is my Asso, now with carpet setup. It's slightly modified by cheap parts like STRC pulleys, aluminium pin retainers, plastic optional steering rack and updated belt cover for FT clutch in future. I'm using cheap chinese elektronics, Tenshock combo with 120A esc and SC401 4600kv motor. Servo is $15 Bluebird from Hobbyking.

I have new build shocks with new AE oil and springs for better handling without rolls in carpet. Tires are original from kit.

It's also a good thing to pickup a STRC aluminum bellcrank.

Help
 

Hello, Im having a problem with my build. Its my first Ae 4x4 build but I have many years building Ae. From touring cars to Sc & T4s.
So heres my problem....Im on the part where you put on the Spur, Slip pads, Spring & Nut. When I tighten down on the nut that compresses the spring....the Spur assembly is WAY to tight. What have I missed... the diff is smooth & free until I tighten down the slipper clutch?
Thanks in Advance

One of the shims that go on the top shaft between the slipper back plate.