My impression now is that he is rolling over, probably why the losi guy told him to stiffen things up.

Correct Cain. I would roll if I tried to carried speed thru the corners. I won't be back to the track till next Wed to test out some of the suggested changes. I will report back to all with my findings.

cool. Yeah, if it was me, I would give raising the ball studs a look. That definitely solved my traction rolling on carpet. Wish I had done that before I took on the hotshoe Losi SCTE driver at the time LOL.

I ran the pro4 4000 and 4600 with the rx8 and sold them both, and now I run the reedy sonic 4.0 550 motor. I've also run the Novak, tekin sc4x, viper, trinity, revtech, and a few others. This motor puts down the power but does it soooooooo smooth. I've found it to be the best motor for our truck.

Here's a question for thought. I just recently purchased a STOCK RTR 4x4. Only Mod to dat is Changing out stock Radio for a DX3c and air flowing the stock body. Mind you I have run a total of 2 packs through it. Its going to be a fun truck to drive that should fit my driving style VERY well. However I do have a couple questions.
1st.. Under heavy acceleration it clicks. Sounds like mabey the rear diff is slipping. Thought on what it could be before I tear into it.

2nd The package that came with the truck contained shock orings, Over and Under drive gears and tools. What drive pulleys are in the truck now??

3rd I dont want to dump a bunch of money or ANY money into it Right away, What are some simple adjustments that I can do to help the truck out in STOCK form.

Im not going to do any ESC or MOTOR upgrade to this truck until I absolutely have to and will only upgrade parts as needed, I want to learn this truck from the ground up and drive it as is until my skill outdrives the truck. I feel that is the best way to approach this truck.

Most likely, it will "click" because of the diff issue. Under full compression, the Bones hit the diff-outdrives. This destroys the Shims inside, the bearings and so on. If you don't limit the uptravel, the diffs will fail after about 2 race-days.

Some cheap updates are to glue the clicker to lock it if it's worn out, the bearing mod for the diffs (google "My sc10 4x4 mods) and putting a steel-plate into the chassis. It's much cheaper than the exo-chassis and adds a lot of weight down low, so the car doesn't traction roll much and has a better f/r-balance.

If you have the over and underdrive pulleys in the bag, the standard-pulleys are in the truck. So the front and rear wheels rotate at the same speed, but the front wheels may not break because of the clicker.

Re
 

Sway bars, vts slipper and tires are a must if you don't have them yet.

Is thier any benefits running a 540 motor in a sc10 4x4

Yea... balance

OKay. What a good gearing for a 5.5 540 in a sc10 4x4 with no timing or boost.

How many of u use the front clicker? Or do u lock it?

Do you mean the 1/10 sized 540's or the 540 Pro4s?

Honestly, I have never heard of ANYONE . . . pro, local sponsored racer, club racer, or basher . . . using the clicker for any length of time. Some people try it, but pretty much everyone locks it down. Admittedly, I haven't tried it, so maybe someone who's tried both can give their more informed opinion.

The only thing that should click on these trucks is a messed up gear diff or a blown bearing.

Regular 1/10 540 5.5

smoother power mostly , easier to drive ...