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Originally Posted by Chris Jarosz
(Post 9227524)
91123- Front Swaybar Set
91124- Rear Swaybar Set 91126- Swaybar Hardware You don't need the swaybar hardware if you get the swaybar sets. That is just extra hardware if you need it. thanks |
Originally Posted by Shark413
(Post 9231378)
I don't see how people are getting an allen wrench in there, but I hear it can be done. I prefer a good hex driver and it took all of 15 mins to do the mod. Whatever works for you is cool.
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Originally Posted by murky123
(Post 9230667)
anybody ?
I gave him the dimensions and quantities for the set and they should have a kit put together as soon as they can get some of the 3mm bearings. They have all the other bearings. |
Originally Posted by latenight
(Post 9230135)
Can some of you 550 guys post your motor temps after 20 minutes of run time without a fan on a 20c 5ah lipo?
Thanks in advance:) Ambient temps: approx 20 C (68 F) No wind. "Track" Conditions: 2-3" tall grass (school playground) "Track" layout: 60' main straight with a large sweeper leading into it, 2 hairpins, small technical section. Lots of hard accelleration, as well as a decent high speed section. 1 small jump where the trucks get about 12-16" of air. truck setup: 14/62. Clicker set loose. 3k diffs front and back. Tekin 5.5T 550, RX8. No matter what I did, the ESC never went above 1 temperature light and the motor maxxed at 116 F. Ran through 2 packs down to LVC set at 3.65v |
Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
(Post 9231601)
Can't give you exactly what you are looking for, as I was running 60C 5500mah packs.
Ambient temps: approx 20 C (68 F) No wind. "Track" Conditions: 2-3" tall grass (school playground) "Track" layout: 60' main straight with a large sweeper leading into it, 2 hairpins, small technical section. Lots of hard accelleration, as well as a decent high speed section. 1 small jump where the trucks get about 12-16" of air. truck setup: 14/62. Clicker set loose. 3k diffs front and back. Tekin 5.5T 550, RX8. No matter what I did, the ESC never went above 1 temperature light and the motor maxxed at 116 F. Ran through 2 packs down to LVC set at 3.65v I ran a 10 minute main and was at 105 degrees Large 1/8 scale track. |
Originally Posted by kromesoldier
(Post 9231675)
1415 castle. 93/25 gears. 5000 50 c battery
I ran a 10 minute main and was at 105 degrees Large 1/8 scale track. |
Originally Posted by MarqueeRc
(Post 9231843)
How do you like the 1415 setup on this truck...Does it perform well on 2s???Are you using the castle mmp sct esc??Any mods done to get it in the truck seated properly??Are you happy with this setup?
Yes I have the mmp sct installed. No bec issues. I can't wait to get more shock springs so I can tune the truck a bit more. To install. I had to do some light sanding in the corner of the rear chassis. I have full adjustment on the motor plate. It runs very well on the 2s pack IMO. |
Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
(Post 9231601)
Ran through 2 packs down to LVC set at 3.65v
If you are, understand that value is an 'absolute' value and not a per-cell value. If you want a cutoff of 3.65 volts per cell on a 2 cell pack you would need to set the custom voltage cutoff on the RX8 to 7.3 volts. |
Originally Posted by Shark413
(Post 9229540)
I love my SC10 4x4 but one thing is a real pain, changing or adjusting the pinion. It basically requires you to pull the entire motor out. So I decided to do what AE should have done for us. I drilled a hole thru the bottom of the chassis that lines up with the pinions grub screw. So now I can stick a wrench in the hole and loosen the pinion grub screw to adjust or remove the pinion. I used a small foam wedge to seal the hole from the inside. See my post on RCShortcourse. http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/s...774#post189774 for the gory details (it's a long post and I didn't want to clutter this thread).
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/09140006.jpg With a small hole in the bottom of the chassis I can insert a 2mm hex driver and loosen the pinion grub screw without removing the entire motor. http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/09140036.jpg Small foam wedge seals the hole from inside. http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/09140001.jpg Here is the bottom of the chassis. The hole is where the rear chassis slopes so it won't snag on anything and is small enough to not compromise the strength of the chassis. |
What are you guys using to plug the hole that allows dirt to get into the gearbox through the motor mount screw slots? This wasn't the best design. :mad:
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Originally Posted by killerguppy
(Post 9232077)
What are you guys using to plug the hole that allows dirt to get into the gearbox through the motor mount screw slots? This wasn't the best design. :mad:
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greasing bearings
i dont know if this applies the same in the rc world, but i am also an avid downhill longboarder.
to make my bearings last longer before cleaning, make them more rust proof, and dirt resistant, i would grease them. this does make them slower vs oil, but it's not noticable after a few warmup runs to get the grease hot. is it safe to grease my bearings for rc trucks as well? i ask this because several people are looking at aftermarket bearings so soon. |
Thanks CraigV for compiling all this information on the first page and keeping this up to date!
Is there a similar thread for the 2wd SC10? I haven't been able to find one. |
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Can someone give me dimensions and/or a picture of the swaybars that they bent up? Decided to make my own.
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