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Originally Posted by fq06
(Post 11130137)
It's bypass either way, bypasses rebound or bypasses compression.
Stack on top is faster rebound. When the shaft moves up in compression the washer stack is pushed down and closed up. When the shaft if releasing in rebound the washer stack flexes up allowing more fluid to pass by. Opposite if the washer stack is on the bottom it allows more fluid to pass and when the shaft is compressed and closed when in rebound. Ross, I have found with all cars that I have used dual stage pistons on I need thicker oil than with standard pistons. Maybe the next time you mess with them try go up 5 or 10 wt in oil to calm the rebound down, can't hurt if your rear is bucking. There's also good info in the MIP thread, make sure you start at page one tho!! |
Originally Posted by fq06
(Post 11130137)
It's bypass either way, bypasses rebound or bypasses compression.
Stack on top is faster rebound. When the shaft moves up in compression the washer stack is pushed down and closed up. When the shaft if releasing in rebound the washer stack flexes up allowing more fluid to pass by. Opposite if the washer stack is on the bottom it allows more fluid to pass when the shaft is compressed and closed when in rebound. Ross, I have found with all cars that I have used dual stage pistons on I need thicker oil than with standard pistons. Maybe the next time you mess with them try go up 5 or 10 wt in oil to calm the rebound down, can't hurt if your rear is bucking. interesting, i was thinking of it the total opposite way. i have mine with the stack on the bottom. set up like the instructions say. i would think you would want a faster rebound... |
faster rebound if you're on a rough bumpy surface.
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I can't think of any reason to speed up the compression unless it is a real bypass that is fast in the beginning and gets progressively slower (stiffer) as the shaft moves up through its stroke.
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. If the track is quite bumpy and rutted / loose I'd run bypass so valves on bottom with everything stacked and thick oil to get some pack but it will still bypass and really lock in the car. These pistons are a learning curve non the less and you will have to play with the setup a couple times. But it'll pay off once you find the correct combo
That's what Matt from MIP told me on the MIP thread. I changed to this setup and will race tomorrow. TA 45 front, 40 rear, feels good. |
im going to a big race tomorrow. i have it with the stack on the bottom. faster compression. i think im gonna change that.
the track is a large 1/8th size track with good size jumps. |
Have you guys seen those new unreleased Proline tires yet?? Pretty cool looking tread pattern. I wanna try em when they come out for sure.
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Originally Posted by twisted
(Post 11132300)
im going to a big race tomorrow. i have it with the stack on the bottom. faster compression. i think im gonna change that.
the track is a large 1/8th size track with good size jumps. |
what would you Tekin guys recommend that I gear a Pro4 4000kv at for a med size track?
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Originally Posted by travymoto11
(Post 11132789)
what would you Tekin guys recommend that I gear a Pro4 4000kv at for a med size track?
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FT kit
Question....Is the FT kit worth buying? Does it come with instructions?
I've already have an aftermarket chassis brace, garodiscs and the MTK clutch basket. Thanks in advance! |
Originally Posted by tom2tone
(Post 11134078)
Question....Is the FT kit worth buying? Does it come with instructions?
I've already have an aftermarket chassis brace, garodiscs and the MTK clutch basket. Thanks in advance! Still a good deal for you to get . Along with the awesome Ae VTS slipper ? The upgrade includes a improved chassis brace , the new Ae steering rack & saddle pack mod.... |
Originally Posted by tom2tone
(Post 11134078)
Question....Is the FT kit worth buying? Does it come with instructions?
I've already have an aftermarket chassis brace, garodiscs and the MTK clutch basket. Thanks in advance! |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11134113)
Still a good deal for you to get .
Along with the awesome Ae VTS slipper ? The upgrade includes a improved chassis brace , the new Ae steering rack & saddle pack mod....
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 11134125)
Saddle packs and sways bars are at least $70 in upgrades. Plus the upgraded rear shock tower and ack bar.
Do i just replace the garodisc and clutch basket with the VTS slipper? I've already got the sway bar kits, which saddles are recommended? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by tom2tone
(Post 11134153)
Sounds like a YES..:lol:
Do i just replace the garodisc and clutch basket with the VTS slipper? I've already got the sway bar kits, which saddles are recommended? Thanks! |
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