I think underdrivin means it spins faster, could be wrong though

Faster rotation is not quite the same as more power delivery. I would think the rear would want to step out pretty easy plus your drive train would be fighting front against rear. There are better solutions

Have tried it like most of us a long time ago, for me it just added a big push in the front, I race on very loose low grip tracks, if the rear comes on to hard the truck will not go straight when you hit the gas, I'm just toying with the idea of this mod, and like I asked, has anyone done it or is everybody just going to say it wont work?

Get an AE 8.2E add SC8 shock towers and bumpers and some SCT wheels and voila you got one.

It might be a little too wide but I think you can get offset wheels to make the width right.

I run on low grip loose loamy dusty clay.

I run standard pulleys.

I run the center diff, my truck will squat and go. :tire:

Blue Front Springs in Rear
 

OK, I feel stupid for even asking this, but could someone post a picture of their Blue Springs on the rear shocks? I've read that people are using 5mm shock limiters. I'm wondering where those go...i just got the blue springs for my rear and want to try them this weekend. But they r so much shorter than the rears. Me Confused....

look at your truck. on the front most likely you have the blue springs. you take those and put them on the rear. you'll have to adjust the spring collar down to get the ride height correct.

The limiters are like o rings that go on the bottom of the shock so it doesn't compress all the way.

cant say im not thinkin about it, im kinda hoping that xray sc is released soon, im reeeeaallllyyyy wanting one of those

Thanks, Jeff. I now know what the limiters are. I was thinking they were the clips that go around the shock body like on my Slash 4x4. I found some in my spare parts from my kit, but I don't have 5 MM ones. I have 4 2mm ones. I'll try those out.

yea you just stack them up until you limit enough travel. use 5mm as a ball park estimate.

isn't the xray using the older platform though??

I'd go with a fresh new 8.2e if I were you. :nod:

DE makes a 17mm hex wheel that'll fit for the Sc8.

the rules are kinda loose so I'd do it if I had extra $$. Not sure how good it would work on tight technical tracks though.

I think I explained it wrong.

It is not that you want the tires to spin slower or faster than the other. It is the power distribution you want improved to the rear. That is why the clutch basket was designed. Power will go to the path of least resistance. Lets say you have the same slipper pads on both sides of the gear with the same spring tension (we only have one spring adjustment) and with 45% front 55% rear weight balance. Then you acceleration more weight transfers back. The weight and tire grip will over power the rear slipper pad quicker than the front being that they are allowed to slip separate from each other. Now our fronts are spinning faster than the rear but without the weight on the front to help get traction. That is why the set up sheets most of the team guys posted still use the standard front pad with the clutch basket. You can spin your front tires so much that you will loose traction coming out of corners and make the truck push and not accelerate off the corners. It might feel easy to drive but not the fastest around the track. I don't think a front wheel drive truck will out perform a 4w truck in off-road. Those people that have the v1 center diff and upgrade to the v2 should see their lap times come up with better acceleration off of corners and through jump sections but will still have the the better balance the center diff gives the truck.

Thats not really the same thing if ya think about it. Over/under means that that end is actually spinning at a different RPM where as slipper drive just means one end has more or less traction, if that makes any sense!


And on the V2 tip, more testing at a higher grip track today. The track was watered on tuesday night so when i got there this morning it was very sticky, I unleashed the truck with all 10 pins and it was super stuck, able to jump into the washboards with ease as well as clear the quads with no probs either, Triples were still hit or miss so i didnt even bother trying since i needed to continue testing. As the day went on the track dryed up,grip faded and the rear started to get squirrely so i pulled 5 pins out and it went back to being stable, in fact i think i could have dropped two more pins and still have enough acceleration. One thing i did notice is that the truck was Faster, I mean ALOT faster down the straight to the point where it was hard to control, the lower the pins the easier it was to control but the 4600 seems like it is too much power again which makes sense.

my sc10 4x4 is almost ready to run all i have to do is take it to my friends place so he can solder the esc and motor together. then it will be all ready to run.

Would it be the same to just buy an sc8?