Question for the SC10-4² owners - how much work is involved in getting at the diffs for service?

Reason I ask is because my previous belt drive experience is limited to the Tamiya DB-01. While I lived the belt drive setup on that car and the lack of maintenance, getting to the diffs for a refresh was a serious exercise in self-flagellation. IIRC, it took removing 12 screws from the covers and popping the shock tops off the towers to get at the diffs, but the plastic tamiya used for the chassis made screw removal and replacement a REAL PITA, even with SS screws and waxing them before install. Thankfully, the driveline in that car stayed adjusted and clean for a long time, so I didn't have to do it often.

This truck looks like a killer setup, just hoping the maintenance is easier. From what I can see in pictures, it looks like there are less fasteners required to hold the belt tunnels on this truck.

Keep the boot and spring cup on (no spring) and see if you experience the same thing. This will give you the true up travel.

If you are going to use set up sheets you have to know where the ride height was measured from. Plus a ride height gauge is a good investment because 1mm is a big difference and would be hard to detect by eye.

It is related to battery weight. But there is no perfect battery weight because everyone's electronics are different. Balancing the car with weights is not a bad idea but not sure how much it helps. I drove the truck with no balancing ballast and did not notice any odd behavior.

LOL"LOL"LOL" now that right there is real funny LOL"LOL" :lol:

I can do that too" no biggie, but when your trying a team set up they
never tell you where they are taking it from on the truck or if the body
is on or off.

This makes it hard to try someone elses set ups if you have nothing to
go on other then by guess and by golly" :eek:

If someone asks my set up I can tell them step by step exactly so they
can try it for themselves. I don't just be a smart azz and say I just eye
ball it or I go by feel. I set stuff by feel then I take notes so if someone
asks I can help them out..

This hobby/sport is about helping each other (at least I thought it was?)

FedEx just dropped off the truck. See you guys in two days:lol:

Thats how I build them and it still wants to lock up. I've taken then apart so many times and started over in frustration that I've almost used a full bottle of 25 weight oil and my large can of motor spray.

I was also having hard time balancing shocks. I use the Losi shock gauge. I am currently using bladders and I removed the bleeder screw like Rick says. That helped. I ultimately also found out the shock boots trap air. To remedy I just made a small slit with my exacto knife. That way air can expel but slit will seal enough to keep most of the dirt out. I may ultimately remove boots altogether as I mainly run this truck indoors.

After doing the above two things my shocks were then in balance. I May alos try removing one of the seals as there seems to be lots of stiction.

Hope this helps.

I guess I don't see copying somebody else's ride height as such a big deal compared to others here. It was a serious question, not trying to bust anybody's balls over it. I figure ride height is pretty track dependent, so I would think people would set it to what they want, not really base it off somebody else's setup sheet. I just go as low as I can based on track conditions.

Anyway...

I had a set of Losi 8ight shocks leftover from my old SCRT10 I decided to install. They fit extremely well and the soft red springs put it at the same height fully backed off as the stock shocks do with the stock springs full backed off. Just had to go with the inside holes on the upper mounts.

http://forums.posdsm.com//imagehosti...6b6917965a.jpg
http://forums.posdsm.com//imagehosti...6b691e7aed.jpg
http://forums.posdsm.com//imagehosti...6b691a970f.jpg

Thank you Rick for clarifying the ride height issue. Now I've got to go eye ball some shock oil.....








sorry had to throw that in there:D let's all just relax

Have you driven it yet and if so how does it compare to the feel of the stock shocks?

I still have my losi shocks form the scrt as well and have been considering sticking them on the sc10 but I am driving it better with the stock setup (sans diff and shock oil choices) than I drove the Jammin after 6 months of tweeking.

Sorry you haven't gotten any info. I am in Finland right now for the IFMAR World's Warmup so I haven't been following this thread at all.

But Chad Due is correct, you measure from between the center/front chassis and center/rear chassis.

I have yet to get any track time with my truck. Just test runs in the street in front of my house unfortunately since rain cancelled my last race. I just threw them on there to see if they fit and can offer similar ride height to the stock shocks, which they do.

You mentioned you put on Losi shocks that are softer which will increase body lean. Are you planning on putting stiffer springs and oil. What is the upside to putting Losi shocks on?

So true lol...

And TW your truck looks good, you are going to get flamed by the hard cores for adding 1/8th scale shocks. But honestly I think it's a prolly the only upgrade this truck need. The stock shocks suck IMO. I thought about doing the same since I have a set laying around.

Thank you Chris, now could you tell us if the body is on
or off for the team set up's on your web site..

Thank you and good luck at the warm ups'

truck is very easy to take apart and put together, the belt maintanance is second to none, especially if you have an automatic screwdriver thingy... too my dff apart and back on in a matter of 10 mins during a race so its not that difficult