thanks.

to start with the stock setup with the following changes (this is for carpet track, very small and tight).

- 10K up front, 5K rear
- yellow springs all around
- Clutch basket (will have to see how it is configured when it comes in)
- Yellow sway bars all around
- Chassis brace (or, if it comes in on in time, the exotek chassis)
- Configured with RPM a-arms all around

Are there any other changes that are pretty much a given when running on a high traction smooth surface?

When you pin the top shaft incense you are locking the front and rear diff together and if you put the basket in at the same time put too much force in the system and will break a idler, spur or something else. The basket adds more friction to run the rear, pinned locks the front into the rear top shaft making the slipper only to control both at the same time (instead of on side going to the front and the other to the rear).

The diff wt in the front help with the power on turning, if you are going pinned use a lighter wt oil 5-10k, basket go with 30-60k. Carpet needs a lower wt since there is do much more grip and the truck doesnt need help power on turning.

The pulleys are preference, over drive (19R-20F) will pull the front end like a true 4wd (which also allows you to run a lower F diff oil) and have a more "point and shot" feeling. A 20-20 pulley setup is common and allows more top speed. A 20R-19F makes the front gain speed quicker (more torque) and can help the front pull a short bit coming out of a tight corner, it gives the truck a looser rear feeling. Nobody runs a 19-19 setup, but it would help low end torque.

As for belt tension, start with factory settings. and then tighten it a bit once it stretches. If your belt is too tight it binds, and I found that the front will flip itself and run on top of the tension pulley. My belt has stretched a good bit now and I'm running a 3-3 setting or a 2R-4F. The loser the belt is the better it works, to the point of slipping. I use to run go karts and we ran the chains the same way, loose until the point the would come off, there was even a guard we used to help keep the chain on when it should of fallen off. I cant remember to true reason why a looser setting helped, but I think it had to do with the pulling side did all the work while the other did nothing. If you take the belt tunnel off the truck you will see that the bottom is tight while the top flops.

i just bought a sc10 sct a few hours ago. need to find a good servo for it.

Steering Issue?
 

When I built my truck's steering rack, I did it to spec, however I have to run the right turn buckle out about 4mm more than the left in order to get my steering centered. I've rebuilt it several times, and I know my steering trim is at 0. When I set my steering I put camber at 0 and use the area behind the arm where it meets the chassis to measure it from. I then measure each side to make them the same, I start this with the buckle at its shortest. Once I get them the same I then set my toe, then my camber, and finally recheck toe. When I do this the truck travels straight.

Does anyone else have to turn one turn buckle more then the other? Or, is my method of setting it flawed?

Savox 1258tg

XP 1015

Once you set your servo horn on the servo as close to straight as possible use sub trim on your radio to get the steering rack centered. Use the hole in the upper deck above the servo saver arm and drop a 2mm driver in it. Use sub trim until it lines up with the ball stud and then worry about the turnbuckle left and right lengths.

Thanks, I have set as straight as I can I just havent set the sub trim.

Ran my truck again today and only changed one thing. I used the weight setup Coyote used with the lead weight in the slots on the chassis. What a HUGE difference it made. I race with mostly losi's and need to really push my truck hard so adding the weight diffentaly helped. I had some traction issue's untill I added the weight. :nod:

How much weight did you add? 21g or 42g per side?

I only had 1/4oz instead of the 1/2oz so I ran 3 1/4oz of weight on each side.

Are you going to be at ECH this Saturday, I am going to make the trip down.

imagine how much better it will be with the exotech now. :cool:

Yea I didnt want to spend 100 bucks on a chassis, but I can see the exotek in my near future! :cool:

Thats what I have too.
Yes, I am going Saturday, not Sunday though.

This is the thread you want to post to:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...10-thread.html

The recommended servos however are good.