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Old 03-23-2011, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Alberello
I have this, but I will like the full list...
According the manual:

.050", 1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm allen wrenches
lexan scissors, regular pliers, needle nose pliers, and x-acto knife...
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:53 PM
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Awesome ... Thanks for the pics
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:27 PM
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Yes that is a great tip with the glue on the T-nut! Thanks Dyno! And you're welcome
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisWolfson
According the manual:

.050", 1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm allen wrenches
lexan scissors, regular pliers, needle nose pliers, and x-acto knife...
Thanks Chris!

Originally Posted by JUSTINASS
Awesome ... Thanks for the pics
No sweat I'm glad some people are enjoying it.
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:46 PM
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on to the tranny build

This is something I have done since the xxx days. Just a little dab of blue lock-tite for the the bolt that holds the case on. If this one came loose it would not be good.


Inside of the tranny case with the diff, idler gear, and top shaft installed



Installing the slipper assembly. Holding the spur gear with slipper pad installed and lowering the complete tranny down onto the gear is the easiest way to make sure the pad is where it is supposed to be


now for the outer slipper plate. (letting gravity do the work keeping the pad in place on the gear) I started with the 82 spur gear as per Truhe's recommendation


tighten the slipper. Note I compressed the slipper spring with pliers first to "seat" it in and make the slipper be consistent from the get go. I set it just tight enough to hold all of the assembly together. I will then set it when the car is all finished with tires on the car.

after the tranny is in the car and before you can add the outer wing mount you can use your 2mm to help align the tranny and inner wing mount.


outer wing mount installed



gear cover with attached rubber plug. This is a nice feature, no more loosing the slipper adjustment cap!



Bag C complete. Extra hardware, second idler gear, and bearings for the mid-engine configuration as well as a few extra shims

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Old 03-24-2011, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisWolfson
According the manual:

.050", 1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm allen wrenches
lexan scissors, regular pliers, needle nose pliers, and x-acto knife...
And what about "Socket Driver" ?
7mm for rear wheels? 5mm for differencial? what more?
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Alberello
And what about "Socket Driver" ?
7mm for rear wheels? 5mm for differencial? what more?
Also a 5.5mm nut driver. That should be about it
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:04 AM
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I can't believe you're not done building this thing. If it was mine I wouldn't sleep until it was done.
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:11 AM
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He is done ran it at cactus last weekend
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:15 AM
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Oh ok, just making us wait. Jerk, haha jk
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:42 AM
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looks like a real nice buggy, ive always wanted a TL vehicle. may have to slide this one under the wife's nose...
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:26 PM
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Casey - why does Mike start with the 82 spur?
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:34 PM
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the team uses the 82T to move the motor more to the rear. The standard 76T was chosen to place the motor slightly forward of center when using a 10.5 motor. We use motor placement as a tuning option quite a bit. Hope this helps!
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:45 PM
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You could perhaps expand further on what the Team believes moving the motor placement location (either forward or a bit more to the rear) does respectively. Perhaps one is more suited towards for high bite clay and another is for a bit loose outdoors? Good to have some more insight and ideas on that. Thanks. : )
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Old 03-24-2011, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by honhon
may have to slide this one under the wife's nose...
LMAO!!! It sure does look killer! Was waiting for the Durango buggy but this is making me think real hard....
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