BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

banana plugs... route of all my problems. LHS sold me banana plugs instead of bullet connectors. I haven't been doing this long enough to know what I needed one over the other... But banana plugs between my motor and ESC are most likely my biggest issue.

Make sure you hard wire or use SOLID bullet connectors to attach the motor to the ESC.

Re wiring everything tonight. Might be common knowledge for most, but maybe this will solve someone else issue too.

BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

Truck rips. 12+ min run times on a 5300. Motor temps about 160. It's as fast as my 3s setup for sure. Nice to be running smooth again after chasing my tail for a week.

j3fron

i have a question

i have tenshock 401 4000kv (toro 4000kv exactly though)
and paired it with 5.600 50-100c nanotech turnigy
will it hold up for race use?

seems it was okay with bashing,i already using the 50c more than 15 times in same battery though.
and which one make battery run hard? in race or bashing?

currenty i'm using those on my jammin scrt with 13/46 gearing (stock)

P6

iTrader: (5)

should be fine i run mine with savox servo mylaps transponder 4600kv with 65c-120c 4200mah shorty packs in my scrt10, and at the track your not gonna have the throttle pinned like you would bashing to so itll get better run times , i just keep 12 13 14 tooth pinions and tires because our track is a good size and it changes the length of straights and the clay texture can be slick and cold or sticky and wet depending on that day and how many run

j3fron

whoaa, you cut your abc wires so short, even shorter than mine.
anyway, any ideas how to extend the abc wires?

hm, i agreed with you using 12,13,14 t pinion in order to keep the temperature and extend battery life.

i usually keep my throttle got pinned about more than 6 seconds when bashing, lol
thats because i want to see how much the babttery can got hold for big current draw. since this thing (mine) can draw more than 150 amps

nckmat

iTrader: (24)

I am running a Tenshock 6 pole in my 1/8 with Novak pinions and the pinions are coming loose after about 1 minute run time on our track. Has anybody got any advice as to how to avoid this? I have been using blue thread lock and wrenching the thing down as had as I can but it still comes loose. The two options I am thinking of are to use red threadlock or groove the motor shaft so the pinion can't move down the shaft. It doesn't usually come completely loose, just enough for it to slide down the shaft and lose meshing.

j3fron

maybe you can sand the motor shaft,make it rougher surface?
or change the grub screw with larger bottom, usually your pinion got slide because in end of the grub screw is too narrow

mulepic

iTrader: (21)

Putting a groove is not a bad option but if you use the motor in another application and the pinion for that set up doesn't line up w/ the groove then you could have issues.

One thing I have noticed is the grub screws come to a point usually. I have flattened that point just a little so that more threads are in contact w/ the pinion. This will also increase the surface area being contacted by the screw.

Actually putting a little loctite on the shaft as you slide the pinion on can help too. And finally, red loctite will probably do the trick. But I always keep a lighter in my tool bag. I use it to heat up any screws that I use loctite on to get it to release easily. That way the screw head doesn't strip trying to get it loosened.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

I have seen Tenshocks with all black wires from people that just can't stand the tuti fruity wire colors. I believe the motor wires are terminated inside the bell unlike some motors where the winding extends out of the motor and that's your wires. Can't mess with that.

I has to be able to be done, I've seen a couple with all black wiring.

BillyT:
Yeah, bananas suck. Only use for them is charging leads and even then only for about 6 to 12 months and they should be replaced.

Good weight distribution on the MSC is with the esc behind the motor and rx on battery side... but your power wires are too short. Maybe once you step up to sensored with a RX8 and 411 you can change the placement.

j3fron

um..... how i can replaced the abc wires?
i have no idea how to doit.....?

have you done it before?

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Its been a couple months since I had the can open to change out to ceramic bearings so I don't remember how it's built but if the motor windings come out of the motor uninterrupted to become the a b c wires, can't do it.
If they end on a post or something that the a b c wires solder onto (interrupted), re solder color and length wire of your choice.

You could even one up Tenshock and do turquoise, pink and purple

j3fron

few days ago i seen in it, that the copper wire got soldered with somekind off cylinder connector, but i dont know if the colored abc cable got soldered or not?

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Half way down the page... may finally do mine black this weekend. Looks like its a female on both sides that the wires get soldered into.

http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/e...k-sc411-2.html

j3fron

cool, can you document it with pictures or with youtube video
and about the step how to doit?

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Will do, forgot this weekend is my B-Day and I'm going out of town... so the following week. Need to get some wire from LHS too.