symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

hey Jstall, did you use a long shank pinion? and do you need to? I pulled the trigger on the v4 and noticed it looks like a long shank pinion.

GreggW

iTrader: (11)

Surprised with 3 Pages, how few pictures there are. Man post some pictures, you guys have me interested!!

jetbill007

iTrader: (20)

Can anyone confirm the use of a Futaba FASST Rx with the V4 radio tray.
Also can someone suggest a long shank pinion to move the rear weight forward as opposed to standard.

Anyone race frequently with this chassis setup with great results?
I know of one guy who ran the V4 chassis at the Roar nationals at Norcal, what was his name?

Last but not least does anyone know the total weight as opposed to the standard BE platform?

Thanks.

kufman

iTrader: (6)

The Futaba receivers don't fit very well unless you do some dremeling.

GreggW

iTrader: (11)

This is one thing keeping me from going Tekno. I have many Fasst receivers. Not changing $800 worth the radio equipment just to get a Tekno chassis.

hontrx265r

iTrader: (5)

That sucks I have faast and this kit but haven't finished it guess I'll figure it out when I get there. I was wondering what diff mounts your using? I see they are aluminum I think the only ones i've seen are integy. I've blown out a few stock plastic ones. Also I'm just mixed on what to do with batteries I run a rx8 1550, I've run it on 5s and 6s 5 seems pretty damn good and I run large outdoor tracks, 6s was ballistic and ripped all my tires off the rims. Not the glue either it ripped the rubber. Would it be better to run the 5 or the 6 and dial it down on the transmitter.

kufman

iTrader: (6)

I just use velcro and ditch the box all together.

I run the stock plastic diff mounts but I milled them down by 2mm on the bottoms. This makes the rear dog bone a straight shot to the rear gear box. The 1550 is a strong motor for buggies. Most people I know, run that motor on 5S and it works good.

hontrx265r

iTrader: (5)

I know its been asked other places alot but what about the plastic spur?? I personally like the idea of a really quiet smooth car. But I was disappointed to see tekno left it wide open on the bottom now I'm skeptical. I'm going to try it anyway just wondered if others had experience. I went ahead an went
6s for batts. I'll just dial it down a bit. On the center diff mount I would love to mill off a bit, but again not with the plastic spur.

hontrx265r

iTrader: (5)

it gets boring without pics here is the progress so far.

kufman

iTrader: (6)

The main thing that prevents the use of plastic spurs is the motor mount itself. It is not tied directly to the center diff and the gear mesh changes quite a bit with chassis flex. Having the spur open to the bottom of the car is not a problem and in my experiences actually works better than not having it. What I have found is that having a milled recess under the spur traps things like small rocks and dirt. This destroys the spur pretty quickly. Having it open on the bottom allows this stuff to fall straight out. I have been running plastic spurs on all of my E-1/8ths without any trouble. I run on a track that is mostly loose, black dirt with rocks and pebbles in it (a track built in a farm field). I prefer to run plastic spurs so I built my own motor mount. See pics.

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...nished_Top.jpg

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...shed_Front.jpg

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...ished_Back.jpg

R-E-A-P-E-R-

iTrader: (13)

Couldnt you use the stock RC8Be motor mount if you didnt want to make your own?

slimthelineman

Can anyone confirm that the tekno mudguards have the same screw patern as the stock ae mudguards? Running a snr cf chassis and it's flat on the sides so the stock mudguards fit funky. I thought the tekno chassis was flat too but I could be mistaken. The tekno mudguards do look to be narrower than the ae ones and I think they would work but figured I would ask.

kufman

iTrader: (6)

It would stick out to the wrong side (the motor would be in the battery tray).

Yes, the holes for the mounting screws are the same distance apart and the Tekno chassis is flat, no turned up edges. The Tekno mudguards are pretty much a straight up design. They don't bow out to the side much.

hontrx265r

iTrader: (5)

Then you can't use mech brakes though which I want, and I want the clutch. I really just don't see how the chassis could flex that much between those two points. Its not even the weakest point which is going to flex first. Still going to try plastic and just see how it goes.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Ive been running with the 46t plastic spur with no porblems.