9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
06-23-2011, 05:20 AM
Maybe you should trade one of the 500 people selling the new sc10 4x4 in the sellers thread. Im sure many of them would be more than happy to oblige you. If not suck it up, put your big boy pants on and deal with it. Instead of Crying and throwing a tantrum like a fat kid who has no cake is lame. I agree the issue sucks for those it effects, myself not included. But bashing a whole company because of one issue doesn't really make sense to me. Like I said they need to speed things up and maybe sell some of the replacements to current owners at wholesale pricing to show some good faith. But crying over spilled milk isn't going to get your SCTE running again. Just saying put your big boy pants on deal with it like an adult.
06-23-2011, 05:25 AM
ive been running 3k/3k/2k since i put the chrispins in, seems to work good for me. truck has just enough push in the corners that my crappy driving doesnt get in the way. also doesnt get tail happy while on throttle. might not be the diff fluid causing this, but i dont want to start changing setups when it handles good for me, you know?
what are the part numbers for the spacers?
what are the part numbers for the spacers?
06-23-2011, 06:06 AM
clicking
hey guys. i too have developed the clicking sound when turning hard in one direction. at first i thought the epa was off, but it doesn't appear to be the case.
does the clicking sound suggest i should shim the diff's? thats my guess, but looking for wisdom from those more experienced than i.
thanks
does the clicking sound suggest i should shim the diff's? thats my guess, but looking for wisdom from those more experienced than i.
thanks
06-23-2011, 06:25 AM
hey guys. i too have developed the clicking sound when turning hard in one direction. at first i thought the epa was off, but it doesn't appear to be the case.
does the clicking sound suggest i should shim the diff's? thats my guess, but looking for wisdom from those more experienced than i.
thanks
does the clicking sound suggest i should shim the diff's? thats my guess, but looking for wisdom from those more experienced than i.
thanks
06-23-2011, 06:42 AM
the clicking sound seems to be coming from the front differential, when the wheel is turned hard in one direction, and the throttle is applied. not full throttle, just a tap on the accelerator. it only occurs when turning in one direction (i'm confusing if it was right or left), which makes me think i need to shim the diff. it click-click-click-clicks a few times during initial throttle, but then the clicking ceases.
just wanted to see if anyone had any input before i tear into it, which i'll probably do anyway. thanks
just wanted to see if anyone had any input before i tear into it, which i'll probably do anyway. thanks
06-23-2011, 06:46 AM
its prob your servo saver. red thread lock it and tighten it down all the way!!
06-23-2011, 07:34 AM
the clicking sound seems to be coming from the front differential, when the wheel is turned hard in one direction, and the throttle is applied. not full throttle, just a tap on the accelerator. it only occurs when turning in one direction (i'm confusing if it was right or left), which makes me think i need to shim the diff. it click-click-click-clicks a few times during initial throttle, but then the clicking ceases.
just wanted to see if anyone had any input before i tear into it, which i'll probably do anyway. thanks
just wanted to see if anyone had any input before i tear into it, which i'll probably do anyway. thanks
06-23-2011, 07:37 AM
WHAT PINION FOR TEKIN SCX4 5.5 MOTOR?
I have the tekin rx8 speedo with the scx4 5.5 turn motor and wanted to know if anyone can help with pinion size. With 18t got 180 temps after 10 minutes. any help is appreciated. thanks Rob
06-23-2011, 07:40 AM
From page one:
Gearing recommendations with 40T spur (2 Pole motors)
4.5 550's - 13-16T pinion
5.5 550's - 14-18T pinion
6.5 550's ??
Castle/Neu 4 Pole motors
Castle 3800kv - 13-18T pinion
Castle 2400kv - 17-20T pinion
Hope it helps
Gearing recommendations with 40T spur (2 Pole motors)
4.5 550's - 13-16T pinion
5.5 550's - 14-18T pinion
6.5 550's ??
Castle/Neu 4 Pole motors
Castle 3800kv - 13-18T pinion
Castle 2400kv - 17-20T pinion
Hope it helps
06-23-2011, 07:48 AM
Ya i read the first page but was hoping someone ran this setup and had onfo on thier results. Think i might try a 16t. Thanks
06-23-2011, 07:55 AM
Thanks for the info, I'm gonna be running this setup when my shipment comes in today. I bought a 14-17T pinion, I guess I'll start off with a 15 or 16T and see how it goes. What kind of track did you get that kind of temps from?
06-23-2011, 08:10 AM
All the diff issues with the scte are really lame for a company of losi's caliber, especially 6 months after the trucks release. I still can't figure out why it's taking so long! No parts available anywhere? I'm scared to tear mine apart but it was making a little clicking sound when I make a hard right on my third 2s battery so I assume destruction is around the corner. So what's the deal, all of the excuses are pretty lame like I said before. So what I fill out a form on horizon and what do I get new diff pins to go with gears and shims I can't buy or get replaced for free. Screw that, this is B.S.
I really wanted this truck to be durable in the drivetrain dept out of the box, it's a let down it can't even hold up to a 2s battery!
I really wanted this truck to be durable in the drivetrain dept out of the box, it's a let down it can't even hold up to a 2s battery!
I'm not sure if I have new version or not, I've got 8 packs on it on indoor clay. I do hear a weird quiet click sound. Shouldn't need to worry about it though. IMO. At least I have 4 more track cars, RC8BE, SC8BE, FTSC10, FTTC5R all AE, all Clapped out! No diff problems with those, they run forever!
I hope the diff parts availability improves because I've already spent over $1000 on it for everything including all the carbon, chassis, titanium pins and buckles. Ect ect... The diffs shouldn't be a problem IMO!
I hope the diff parts availability improves because I've already spent over $1000 on it for everything including all the carbon, chassis, titanium pins and buckles. Ect ect... The diffs shouldn't be a problem IMO!
hey guys. i too have developed the clicking sound when turning hard in one direction. at first i thought the epa was off, but it doesn't appear to be the case.
does the clicking sound suggest i should shim the diff's? thats my guess, but looking for wisdom from those more experienced than i.
thanks
does the clicking sound suggest i should shim the diff's? thats my guess, but looking for wisdom from those more experienced than i.
thanks
the clicking sound seems to be coming from the front differential, when the wheel is turned hard in one direction, and the throttle is applied. not full throttle, just a tap on the accelerator. it only occurs when turning in one direction (i'm confusing if it was right or left), which makes me think i need to shim the diff. it click-click-click-clicks a few times during initial throttle, but then the clicking ceases.
just wanted to see if anyone had any input before i tear into it, which i'll probably do anyway. thanks
just wanted to see if anyone had any input before i tear into it, which i'll probably do anyway. thanks
To all...the clicking sound is from the wheel ring screws rubbing on the inner screw that holds the castor block on. What happens is that as the wheel gets used and abused and develops more flex or gets bent, it rubs and those little screw heads rub. Take the wheel off and look at the screw heads, you will see they are rubbing. You can take the bead lock off, or like we did on the 8ight, you can grind that one screw. But that is what you are hearing.
06-23-2011, 08:16 AM
We have explained what happened a few times now...its not BS and its not an excuse. Its a fact of life. I explain the clicking below.
Diff parts will be available shortly.
To all...the clicking sound is from the wheel ring screws rubbing on the inner screw that holds the castor block on. What happens is that as the wheel gets used and abused and develops more flex or gets bent, it rubs and those little screw heads rub. Take the wheel off and look at the screw heads, you will see they are rubbing. You can take the bead lock off, or like we did on the 8ight, you can grind that one screw. But that is what you are hearing.
Diff parts will be available shortly.
To all...the clicking sound is from the wheel ring screws rubbing on the inner screw that holds the castor block on. What happens is that as the wheel gets used and abused and develops more flex or gets bent, it rubs and those little screw heads rub. Take the wheel off and look at the screw heads, you will see they are rubbing. You can take the bead lock off, or like we did on the 8ight, you can grind that one screw. But that is what you are hearing.
Envelope showed up yesterday Ryan thank you sooo much.
06-23-2011, 08:48 AM
We have explained what happened a few times now...its not BS and its not an excuse. Its a fact of life. I explain the clicking below.
Diff parts will be available shortly.
To all...the clicking sound is from the wheel ring screws rubbing on the inner screw that holds the castor block on. What happens is that as the wheel gets used and abused and develops more flex or gets bent, it rubs and those little screw heads rub. Take the wheel off and look at the screw heads, you will see they are rubbing. You can take the bead lock off, or like we did on the 8ight, you can grind that one screw. But that is what you are hearing.
Diff parts will be available shortly.
To all...the clicking sound is from the wheel ring screws rubbing on the inner screw that holds the castor block on. What happens is that as the wheel gets used and abused and develops more flex or gets bent, it rubs and those little screw heads rub. Take the wheel off and look at the screw heads, you will see they are rubbing. You can take the bead lock off, or like we did on the 8ight, you can grind that one screw. But that is what you are hearing.
That's the sound you are hearing however, on mine the bolts that hold the caster block on backed out slightly. Put some loctite on it problem solved. It was always the rear bolts. I had already removed the beadlock rings long time ago.
06-23-2011, 09:03 AM
