hacker07

iTrader: (13)

I have attached the most recent and final SCTE 1.0 setup.

mysupratoy94

iTrader: (24)

Thank you Ryan

xxfile

I have original pinion bearings in mine thats 2 yrs old and has seen lots of action. In fact so much its worn out and getting replaced witha 2.0.

I take EVERY bearing remove EVERY SEAL and pack them with Acer Goo its really thick
the stock and even acer or boca bearings come with just a dab of grease as they seem to think they need to spin..... Well the seals are "close but not in contact" with the inner race for low friction... all this might be fine on indoor carpet or on road but we run in the dirt!.
Packing the bearings FULL of grease and replacing the seals creates a barrier keeping the dirt OUT of the bearings.
One little grain of dirt past the seals will ruin a bearing and geez we run in DIRT. well maybe not the Socal tracks that are hardpacked.
99% of beaten bearing are because they ate dirt.

muscles 1

iTrader: (2)

Ryan do you ever change the front kick up angle?

tc5 man

Im curious how low of a MAH rating on a 2s have you guys ran on your SCTE how much run time do you get running a 4600kv motor ?

Im guessing you need at least a 5000mah 2s to make a 5 min race . Thats why i run a 5000mah 2s 30c lipo for 5 min race on a tight carpet offroad track with low gearing etc.


XXFILE : Shoot im going to take a look at that Acer GOO than ! I never had bearings last that long in any truck that long lol.
So you leave the seals off when use this stuff ? Wouldnt that just fling all over the place in the diff cases ?

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

I havent played with it on this truck...I will try messing with it tomorrow maybe. I have played with it on 8th scale though. Definately a personal driving style kind of change to me.

muscles 1

iTrader: (2)

Thannks Ryan for the reply. I was wondering if you had. I think i'm gonna add some and test to see how it does for me.

jy144

iTrader: (2)

Wondering what 1/8 motors ppl have used with success and with out modification

JoeW

iTrader: (6)

Well I am embarrassed to ask these questions but I must admit I'm a noob but trying to educate myself.

Regarding setting up my SCTE RTR. I have a TLR tuning kit on my truck and that's it as far as tunable mods go. I have tried to decipher the setup sheets I see posted but I have a few questions.

What tools are you using to measure Toe and Camber degrees?

What do the TLR kit front numbered pivot support spacers adjust? I put the zero ones in to start just to avoid any issues. But .5 and 1.0 came in the kit.

Same question for the rear TLR kit spacers.

Anti-Squat?

If my local track is mostly tailored to 8th scale stuff...big jumps...florida orange clay (hard pack with some sand scattered around) should I raise the ride height a couple of mm to avoid bottoming so often? Any tire/wheel combos to suit this type of track? Tried some AKA Cityblocks but they didn't last more than 4-5 times at the track and they didn't grip that much better than stock. I think the wider offset may have helped a bit though.

What fluid do the stock diffs come with? If I knew that I would know if I needed to change the fluid.

If I changed the stock motor out to something like a Tekin Pro4 4600...would it be much faster? I assume I would need to get the RX8 to match as well as a better servo. If I changed this stuff out would it transform the vehicle?

I appreciate any help you guys can offer. I'm getting pretty decent at driving it now I think it's time to set it up properly.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

Well I am embarrassed to ask these questions but I must admit I'm a noob but trying to educate myself.

Regarding setting up my SCTE RTR. I have a TLR tuning kit on my truck and that's it as far as tunable mods go. I have tried to decipher the setup sheets I see posted but I have a few questions.

What tools are you using to measure Toe and Camber degrees? LINK toe is more visual typically
What do the TLR kit front numbered pivot support spacers adjust? I put the zero ones in to start just to avoid any issues. But .5 and 1.0 came in the kit.

Changes toe and kick up (anti-squat) with just swapping the inserts (just run 0's)

Same question for the rear TLR kit spacers.

Anti-Squat?

If my local track is mostly tailored to 8th scale stuff...big jumps...florida orange clay (hard pack with some sand scattered around) should I raise the ride height a couple of mm to avoid bottoming so often? Any tire/wheel combos to suit this type of track? Tried some AKA Cityblocks but they didn't last more than 4-5 times at the track and they didn't grip that much better than stock. I think the wider offset may have helped a bit though.

27.5 should be good f/r (typo)
I love the pro-line ion clay tires, aka gridirons would be the best aka (not too soft)

What fluid do the stock diffs come with? If I knew that I would know if I needed to change the fluid. (check the front page) I'd run ryan's posted base setup and edit from there.

If I changed the stock motor out to something like a Tekin Pro4 4600...would it be much faster? I assume I would need to get the RX8 to match as well as a better servo. If I changed this stuff out would it transform the vehicle?

Gear the stock motor up huge, it can boogie! If you swap I'd recommend the hobbywing xerun SCTpro 4k combo, but two other kv's are offered.

I appreciate any help you guys can offer. I'm getting pretty decent at driving it now I think it's time to set it up properly.

JoeW

iTrader: (6)

17.5? Is that right? The standard setup says 27.5 and 29.5. Shouldn't I raise it instead of lower?

To gear it up just throw a 15T on it? Assuming 14 is stock. Will it run hotter or no?

Thanks for your help!

eddomak

iTrader: (8)

I might be corrected, but people are tending to go for the high MAH ratings (6000, 6600, even 8000) not for the longer runtime per se, but because the C rating can be lower and therefore the tendency to puff batteries (due to the high current demand) is lower.

But then again, some people have indeed reported running out of juice before the race is up. I don't know what MAH they were running.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

LoL ya typo there.. 27.5 I corrected on the first post too :P

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

The first pinion bearing that went bad, i did not catch in time and it rip the front housing up. It has to be the flex of the chassis, i even put a losi 8ight rear brace on it and custom drilled holes and it still flexes.


On the new 2.0 scte, are they changing any of the arms or knuckles or outdrives? B/c i was thinking of buying the new one when it comes out and taking everything off my 1.0 and just place it on the new chassis considering mine is fairly new as is. Also, i upgraded to the hd diffs this past week.

weavty1

iTrader: (12)

Speaking of pinions, etc..

Just put the King Headz Center Differential Front Upright and Motor Mount on my SCTE, and boy, does it not like the pinion set screw! I ended up having to grind down the back side of the set screw, for it to sit flush to the OD of the pinion body, once tightened all the way down, on the motor shaft... Otherwise, the set screw would sit up too high and get stuck on the King Headz Motor Mount plate channel.

Just an FYI is all, folks!