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Old 11-02-2012, 06:23 AM
  #40711  
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I am running indoor carpet with a 9mm ride height, with full droop, silver front springs with no adjusters, black front springs in rear 35/30 shock oils, i cand drop it from 2ft and it doesn't bottom out. Eating all but one Durango for breakfast at our track, and i'm just as fast as that one, he just doesn't screw up at all, and i usually do once or twice, and i mean by screwing up, missing my line not crashing.
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:41 AM
  #40712  
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Originally Posted by binbrook310
I am running indoor carpet with a 9mm ride height, with full droop, silver front springs with no adjusters, black front springs in rear 35/30 shock oils, i cand drop it from 2ft and it doesn't bottom out. Eating all but one Durango for breakfast at our track, and i'm just as fast as that one, he just doesn't screw up at all, and i usually do once or twice, and i mean by screwing up, missing my line not crashing.
Did you race at hotrods last week lol
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:50 AM
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Yup, thats me!
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY
With orignal springs I conquer, new springs n rates are different , i like to make ride hight with limeters, some cut springs, some use the droop screws , what ever works, some methods cause more wear n tear than others, i had my truck set up fer dirt but got rained out so took it to carpet, tried diff shock positions for diff reactions, went ok but wasnt where i wanted to be, finally used the droop screws to lower ride hight helped much more, a combo of the two plus limiters would be perfect, ill let you know , im almost there lol
Having probs with my dx3r pro , got one with a bad/recall code in the bat tray so i sent it in but now im on the fence for a new controller, thinking to go m12 seeing as my rc cars are worth a great radio lol but i recently bought 3 dsm2 recievers for my. Spektrum, cant believe they havent come out with newer stuff.
You should only use the shock collar to adjust ride height. Droop screws adjust droop as well as shock limiters. Taking droop away on carpet is a good idea as well as lowering the ride height.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:33 PM
  #40715  
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Casper, im running full droop on carpet and the main advantage i have over the durangos is having that full dampening effect when landing unfavorabley, it just soaks it up while they are trying to collect themselves, no spring cutting, although i am running front springs in the rear to get the ride height down and no collars in the front. I did have to go to black rears from silver in the rear to stiffen it up a little to increase steering, now i have to turn it down a little. Its working great!
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:40 AM
  #40716  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
That's on 4s, like it was meant to run. I doesen't work right on 2s.
I was commenting on the fact he said an 1/8th motor would not fit in the SCTE. I run a T8 2050kv on 4s in mine on the stock mount. No fitment issues whatsoever.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:24 AM
  #40717  
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Originally Posted by binbrook310
I am running indoor carpet with a 9mm ride height, with full droop, silver front springs with no adjusters, black front springs in rear 35/30 shock oils, i cand drop it from 2ft and it doesn't bottom out. Eating all but one Durango for breakfast at our track, and i'm just as fast as that one, he just doesn't screw up at all, and i usually do once or twice, and i mean by screwing up, missing my line not crashing.
Wow, 9mm that sounds crazy!!!
I have dry tried the evans setup, but I can't get below 19mm without cutting the springs. But even with 19mm the chassis will bottom out, if I drop it from 20cm height.

But well, this reminds me of the early 80ies, when I was running on road with the first full suspension 1/8 cars. The Serpent Quattro didn't had shocks and the springs were kind of torsion springs which had to be set up by set screws. In that days, we often used to bring the ride height down with the droop screw.
This way the suspension was some kind of preloaded. From what I remember, it was really hard, to get any tweak out of the suspension...

But later, when I was fast with this car, I never preloaded the suspension anymore ;-)
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:40 AM
  #40718  
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If they had made that aluminum diff case so that bearings could be used on the outdrives, then they would really have something.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by timannnn6
I was commenting on the fact he said an 1/8th motor would not fit in the SCTE. I run a T8 2050kv on 4s in mine on the stock mount. No fitment issues whatsoever.
What tooth pinion are you using? Also how different is the power and speed from running a 4.5t 550 can motor?
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:52 AM
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on that NEW aluminum case.. do the insert ends go out and then you have to buy a whole new one?
sounds good to fix the leaks if you rebuild them after five or six races. I have been rebuilding the inserted losi ones for a yr now and had only one problem when gluing before I inserted the insert. after I learned to glue if after it was installed NO problems with binding.
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:47 AM
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Just wanted everyone's opinion on chassis bracing.

I recently picked up a SCTE and it has the stock chassis with stock chassis braces along with a big carbon fiber chassis brace that attaches from the front top plate to the center diff and to the rear diff case.

Should I leave the carbon brace or remove it?
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:35 PM
  #40722  
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Originally Posted by MattP
Just wanted everyone's opinion on chassis bracing.

I recently picked up a SCTE and it has the stock chassis with stock chassis braces along with a big carbon fiber chassis brace that attaches from the front top plate to the center diff and to the rear diff case.

Should I leave the carbon brace or remove it?
Just run the stock brace.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:51 PM
  #40723  
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Default Hot racing aluminum diff case

A fellow racer has measured the alnuminum and stock diff cases. (The body and top part, without screws. Stock also including the metal inserts.)
Aluminum: 18g
Stock: 12g
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Just run the stock brace.
Ok thanks.
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:42 PM
  #40725  
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Originally Posted by Gubernator46
Wow, 9mm that sounds crazy!!!
I have dry tried the evans setup, but I can't get below 19mm without cutting the springs. But even with 19mm the chassis will bottom out, if I drop it from 20cm height.

But well, this reminds me of the early 80ies, when I was running on road with the first full suspension 1/8 cars. The Serpent Quattro didn't had shocks and the springs were kind of torsion springs which had to be set up by set screws. In that days, we often used to bring the ride height down with the droop screw.
This way the suspension was some kind of preloaded. From what I remember, it was really hard, to get any tweak out of the suspension...

But later, when I was fast with this car, I never preloaded the suspension anymore ;-)
What is the Evans setup, havent seen that one before, doesnt seem to be many scte carpet setups on the web, I have came up with this setup trial & error over the last 2 years (bought one from the very first batch). I have shaved every unecessary part of this truck, moved the battery back about 3/4- 1" back on a custom lexan battery tray that places the battery about 3/4" closer to the center of the chassis, moved the rx to the other side in front of the battery and lowered esc, servo mount etc. I have been determined to make this thing very competitive with a whole field of Durangos. I even bought a durango to drive it, and do some r&d to see what make them tick and resold it after my research, lol. THought about swapping center driveshafts to center diff on the chassis and move it to the rear more, but i already have more than enough steering, the only thing left to do is get the driver (me) more tuned up to beat that one last Durango at our track and im nipping at his heels, but hes good!
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