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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-27-2012, 10:53 PM
  #40591  
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Originally Posted by .AJ. View Post
Ive never had my diffs leak lol
How do you build them? Your on oils?
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:03 AM
  #40592  
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Built by the book, no ca or sealant and yes i run oil 5/7/3, guess ive just been lucky
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:19 AM
  #40593  
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Originally Posted by .AJ. View Post
Built by the book, no ca or sealant and yes i run oil 5/7/3, guess ive just been lucky
Wow, yeah you have magic diffs.
What chassis and diff holders do you have?
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:30 AM
  #40594  
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Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
My front diff started leaking again from the oudrives. I have CAd, RTVd and basically given so much lovin to the gears that it's not funny anymore. Tried different o-rings, shims the whole shebang.

I need or better demand the new diff cases! Pleease Ryan!
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Once ur diffs start leaking again, it time to reglue the inserts and change out orings (kyosho) and shims (harden). Hopefully u used rtv so u can push the inserts out and re-rtv them. The diffs should last a couple of months of running and few weekends of racing. Grease up the outdrives and orings good and you will have better " no leaking results".
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:58 AM
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Having a small problem. My quick motor mount will move away from my center diff? Any ideas on how to fix this? It is a stock motor mount.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:04 AM
  #40596  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Oh i see well once they start getting a lose fit i will change them to Castle solid plugs but intill than its been fine even though i dont have a ton of runs on this truck.

Kind of funny though that on this tread the only lipos that were mention that had issues with the Bird cage connecters were in the Nanotechs .
the nanotechs are fine just the birdcages are the some of the cheapest made ive seen i switched my escs and charger to castle high current 4mm bullets they work great and i did smash one pretty bad bent it right back so after time when they loosen it wont be a problem to open them a tiny bit to make them fit snug again
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:06 AM
  #40597  
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Originally Posted by spider882009 View Post
Having a small problem. My quick motor mount will move away from my center diff? Any ideas on how to fix this? It is a stock motor mount.
Add a cap head screw and washer like this. Apply threadlock and you're good to go. Mine did the same thing before.

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Old 10-28-2012, 10:24 AM
  #40598  
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Originally Posted by Razorbelly View Post
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Once ur diffs start leaking again, it time to reglue the inserts and change out orings (kyosho) and shims (harden). Hopefully u used rtv so u can push the inserts out and re-rtv them. The diffs should last a couple of months of running and few weekends of racing. Grease up the outdrives and orings good and you will have better " no leaking results".
Hmm, have reglued used Mugens o-rings, and Chris's and GMK hardeneded shims. The shims do absolutely nothing, not worth it. Use black lithium grease, but no cigar.
And diffs should last more than a few weekends of racing!
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
Hmm, have reglued used Mugens o-rings, and Chris's and GMK hardeneded shims. The shims do absolutely nothing, not worth it. Use black lithium grease, but no cigar.
And diffs should last more than a few weekends of racing!
Use the Mugen shims. They have been running great for about a year and show no wear. It's the larger ones in the picture. They are the same ID of the Losi shims. Much harder steel than anything I've used (have tried all the different ones, GMK, Chris's, etc). The Mugen ones are the only ones that have worked.

http://www.nitrohouse.com/Differenti...t_p_10556.html
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:39 AM
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so be a guinea pig and buy the hot racing alum diff seen here and see how that works...I kno some dont like it due to added weight but hasnt been compared to the stock diff but either way...IF your having leaking issues this might be something to check into BUT if its leaking at the outdrive area i think you need to look deeper into your grease, o-rings, and so on....
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:42 AM
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I'm surprised tlr hasn't fixed this problem yet. The truck should just "work" from the factory, not forcing us to make diy fixes.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:57 AM
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hey...anyone familiar with small weights, does this look like it could be correct for the weight the HR alum diff housing

0.8200 ounces
(23.2 grams)
(0.051 pounds)
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:57 AM
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Has anyone ran the Integy carbon fiber shock towers? They have them on their website on sale like $14 for front and rear. They have an extra set of holes to mount shocks lower. Not sure if this will help really. But for $14 I ordered me a set for a spare.
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
Add a cap head screw and washer like this. Apply threadlock and you're good to go. Mine did the same thing before.
+1

It won't move again like this.
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:23 AM
  #40605  
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Originally Posted by huzzler View Post
Has anyone ran the Integy carbon fiber shock towers? They have them on their website on sale like $14 for front and rear. They have an extra set of holes to mount shocks lower. Not sure if this will help really. But for $14 I ordered me a set for a spare.


They look good but whats with all the shock tower holes that alone would confuse me lol. But the price is good for them and there thick !
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