Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread >

Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree9Likes

Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-04-2012, 06:59 PM
  #35041  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
TCCustoms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: South Central Michigan
Posts: 1,512
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

so they are a Losi part?
TCCustoms is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:00 PM
  #35042  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
 
goehm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,765
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TCCustoms
oh yea, as for my esc(hobbywing sct pro)...someone said to turn off the timing but you cant. It has setting 1-8 with 5 being the "stock" or how its shipped. I kno nothing about how timing works other than when on 1, it dont want to move, lol...
Setting 1 should be 0 timing. I just checked with my laptop.
goehm is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:02 PM
  #35043  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
 
goehm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,765
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing
you know i recently turned off the overheat enable and no more cut outs
According to HW, the overheat is both for the ESC and motor (sensored mode). So if you're not using a HW motor this setting isn't recommended (since a different brand could report a false negative and overheat a motor, or a false positive and shut you down).

Also - overheat for the motors only works in sensored mode, so I'm not sure how it would work if you were to run an unsensored motor..

I really don't know anything other than what I read .. but hope that helps!
goehm is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:02 PM
  #35044  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
BmainStar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: pullin in,ca.
Posts: 1,993
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TCCustoms
so they are a Losi part?
Yes Sir,bodies ,bleed caps and collars and spring sets!!
BmainStar is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:07 PM
  #35045  
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
 
BlackStarRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Miramar, Florida
Posts: 1,786
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by goehm
According to HW, the overheat is both for the ESC and motor (sensored mode). So if you're not using a HW motor this setting isn't recommended (since a different brand could report a false negative and overheat a motor, or a false positive and shut you down).

Also - overheat for the motors only works in sensored mode, so I'm not sure how it would work if you were to run an unsensored motor..

I really don't know anything other than what I read .. but hope that helps!
Yeah I'm running sensored with a tenshock sc411 so i think it was acting up with that mode enabled!!! But since turning it off no issues with that anymore
BlackStarRacing is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:07 PM
  #35046  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
TCCustoms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: South Central Michigan
Posts: 1,512
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

ya, i see your looking at close to about $100 if you look to build them as i dont have the stock scte shocks anymore...or should i stick with the 8ights and play with them since they are on and with the extented brackets i have they are closer to a workable length and not off stock mounts making them a shorter stroke???
TCCustoms is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:27 PM
  #35047  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
Grandturk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,485
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

I don't see the point in running the 1/8th scale shocks. The SCTE shocks are fine.
Grandturk is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:36 PM
  #35048  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
TCCustoms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: South Central Michigan
Posts: 1,512
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Grandturk
I don't see the point in running the 1/8th scale shocks. The SCTE shocks are fine.
Well that doesn't help me much as I stated I don't have the stock shocks, only the 8ight shocks. And by the looks of it, it would cost me more than the 8ight shocks costed me to build the stock using the HA parts so thats why I asked if buying the spring kit would help? My truck weighs 7.2lbs so it's no like it's that light
TCCustoms is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:43 PM
  #35049  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
Grandturk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,485
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TCCustoms
Well that doesn't help me much as I stated I don't have the stock shocks, only the 8ight shocks. And by the looks of it, it would cost me more than the 8ight shocks costed me to build the stock using the HA parts so thats why I asked if buying the spring kit would help? My truck weighs 7.2lbs so it's no like it's that light
No doubt. Those shocks are massive.
Grandturk is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:46 PM
  #35050  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (58)
 
8ight-e's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,175
Trader Rating: 58 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TCCustoms
Well that doesn't help me much as I stated I don't have the stock shocks, only the 8ight shocks. And by the looks of it, it would cost me more than the 8ight shocks costed me to build the stock using the HA parts so thats why I asked if buying the spring kit would help? My truck weighs 7.2lbs so it's no like it's that light
run 8ight silvers up front w/ 45wt, and green in the rear with 30-35wt - I have the 8ight shocks on my 810e :P Make sure to set your travel, say 89-90mm up front 101-102ish rear, I'd do the droop pad mod using 8ight's droop pads as well to save the chassis.

If you didn't already do it put a ~2mm spacer (shock limiter works fine) behind the shocks upper bushing this gives proper clearance away from the shock tower.
8ight-e is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:51 PM
  #35051  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (146)
 
RC*PHREAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 5,373
Trader Rating: 146 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BmainStar
The ha will hold up to wear better staying smoother longer than the stock ones.I have also used new pistons and the new collars to match the bodies cuz they are nice lol
I also have the new bleeder caps which are very easy to build and mantain.
Now using 30 wt oil all around with this oring emusion stlye and love the way the truck reacts during and after it lands(it will settle quicker with emulsion and not bounce as much)Yes use the same fluids as with the stockers.I was running 27.5 all around but now that it is starting to warm up ,have gone to 30 wt all around(losi 30-wt).
30 in the front with no sway? With 37.5 they seem to rebound very quick. Feel pretty good like that.
RC*PHREAK is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:53 PM
  #35052  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (58)
 
8ight-e's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,175
Trader Rating: 58 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
30 in the front with no sway? With 37.5 they seem to rebound very quick. Feel pretty good like that.
agreed I don't recommend no sway unless you have 37.5wt fluid.. 35wt maybe but nothing less for sure. If you want 27.5 to 32.5 oil id run the 2mm sway for sure.
8ight-e is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 08:42 PM
  #35053  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
KingdomRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 1,483
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TCCustoms
Well that doesn't help me much as I stated I don't have the stock shocks, only the 8ight shocks. And by the looks of it, it would cost me more than the 8ight shocks costed me to build the stock using the HA parts so thats why I asked if buying the spring kit would help? My truck weighs 7.2lbs so it's no like it's that light
Originally Posted by 8ight-e
run 8ight silvers up front w/ 45wt, and green in the rear with 30-35wt - I have the 8ight shocks on my 810e :P Make sure to set your travel, say 89-90mm up front 101-102ish rear, I'd do the droop pad mod using 8ight's droop pads as well to save the chassis.

If you didn't already do it put a ~2mm spacer (shock limiter works fine) behind the shocks upper bushing this gives proper clearance away from the shock tower.
First off is, I run the SNR towers that give you the right height to properly run 8B shocks.
Second I use reds up front and silvers out back with 40wt/54 pistons up front and 25wt/56 pistons in the rear. In colder weather I go 5wt lighter both f/r.
I have tried 8ight's recommendations and found it was not soft enough for the SCTE and is something that works for heavier cars than want you posted.
Just offering help.
KingdomRacer is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 10:01 PM
  #35054  
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
 
darryl80's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,263
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

well i got bored so i decided to put all the stuff from my ten t chassis onto my scte chassis and my esc comes in the mail today it will be up and running.
darryl80 is offline  
Old 06-04-2012, 10:15 PM
  #35055  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (146)
 
RC*PHREAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 5,373
Trader Rating: 146 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by darryl80
well i got bored so i decided to put all the stuff from my ten t chassis onto my scte chassis and my esc comes in the mail today it will be up and running.
i have a feeling your SC10 4x4 is going to become your basher vehicle and the SCTE will be your race truck...
RC*PHREAK is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.