9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
06-03-2012, 10:15 AM
Most of the time when I do them it's a few days prior or just after a race... so typically they get put together then tossed in my storage box until the next race day. Using the silcone a lot though for other purposes I'd say by the time you finish putting it all back together you can start racing... there is no real pressure behind it the seal will hold iMO.
06-03-2012, 10:28 AM
PS the clear rtv silicone comes off with a towel on the gasket and you can use the gasket severa times especially if you keep using rtv seal on it as I have been. I only relpace the gasket if it breaks or when I replace the diff cup and have had no issues.
Last edited by 8ight-e; 06-03-2012 at 10:42 AM.
06-03-2012, 10:40 AM
Yes correct my question was would filling them up with diff fluid affect the cure time for the silicone on the inserts. Thanks for the feedback guys. I think by the time I finish getting the grease out of the center and rear I will refill the front. Thanks for the quick responses, much appreciated.
06-03-2012, 11:14 AM
i use the silicone gasket maker and let it sit overnight and no leaking at all.. and its been 3-4 months of racing too....i used it for the inserts
06-03-2012, 11:54 AM
06-03-2012, 12:08 PM
06-03-2012, 12:16 PM
I don't know why you guys are having leaking problems with leaking. I've never had to seal any of my diffs up with anything that didn't come with the kit. I'm just using the paper seals and it's fine
06-03-2012, 12:39 PM
there not talking about the part where the gasket is, its the inserts that the outdrives ride in. they leak pretty good if you dont seal them up
06-03-2012, 12:39 PM
If anyone is looking for a bolt on nitro conversion for their SCTE I have one listed in the FS section. Sweet deal. Just swap the front and back clips from your SCTE to this complete nitro chassis setup and your ready to make some noise!! 
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...your-scte.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...your-scte.html
06-03-2012, 01:11 PM
06-03-2012, 04:08 PM
Thanx!
Thank You Scott!
Ya I understand what the idea is but I usualy tear down the whole front end when I rebuild the diffs to clean up that part of the truck.I have lost that part before and the track did not have one LoL..What I have done is given the Alum part a true clearance hole for the 5-40 screw to go thru.On the plastic part the hole is undersized so you have to screw thru the plastic and then screw in to the bottom components.With this, the screws go right in and out with out issus takes no longer than chaning the wheels Lol Thanx for Your input (8)E...I may try to make a run of these and hand some out for further testing.I may offer some for sale soon if all goes well with further test runs ,Just cant decide what color Ano I want
Thank You Scott!
Top plate looks great, glad the performance was there too..
Just to note though, you really don't want to eliminate that second plastic part under the front side of the top plate. This was designed for a very specific purpose; changing your diff or taking the front clip out.
To get your front clip out while keeping the steering section installed you simply take out the main four bottom screws into your diff housing. Top two bumper screws, then take out the front two screws of the top plate (releasing the spacer), pull the spacer out and unscrew your front two steering rods and your entire front drops out w/o touching the rack.
I honestly wouldn't get a part that eliminated this spacer, but with luck maybe others won't mind. Sorry if I mis-understood as I thought your goal was to get rid of that part.
*similar as above to swap the diff while in place, just don't bother with the steering screws and take out the diff screws instead. You can even leave the sway bar attached by swinging the front of the diff housing over pull out the diff swap and re-install.
Just to note though, you really don't want to eliminate that second plastic part under the front side of the top plate. This was designed for a very specific purpose; changing your diff or taking the front clip out.
To get your front clip out while keeping the steering section installed you simply take out the main four bottom screws into your diff housing. Top two bumper screws, then take out the front two screws of the top plate (releasing the spacer), pull the spacer out and unscrew your front two steering rods and your entire front drops out w/o touching the rack.
I honestly wouldn't get a part that eliminated this spacer, but with luck maybe others won't mind. Sorry if I mis-understood as I thought your goal was to get rid of that part.
*similar as above to swap the diff while in place, just don't bother with the steering screws and take out the diff screws instead. You can even leave the sway bar attached by swinging the front of the diff housing over pull out the diff swap and re-install.
06-03-2012, 04:13 PM
Thanx!
Thnck You Scott!
Ya I understand what the idea is but I usualy tear down the whole front end when I rebuild the diffs to clean up that part of the truck.I have lost that part before and the track did not have one LoL..What I have done is given the Alum part a true clearance hole for the 5-40 screw to go thru.On the plastic part the hole is undersized so you have to screw thru the plastic and then screw in to the bottom components.With this, the screws go right in and out with out issus takes no longer than chaning the wheels Lol Thanx for Your input (8)E...I may try to make a run of these and hand some out for further testing.I may offer some for sale soon if all goes well with further test runs ,Just cant decide what color Ano I want
Thnck You Scott!
Ya I understand what the idea is but I usualy tear down the whole front end when I rebuild the diffs to clean up that part of the truck.I have lost that part before and the track did not have one LoL..What I have done is given the Alum part a true clearance hole for the 5-40 screw to go thru.On the plastic part the hole is undersized so you have to screw thru the plastic and then screw in to the bottom components.With this, the screws go right in and out with out issus takes no longer than chaning the wheels Lol Thanx for Your input (8)E...I may try to make a run of these and hand some out for further testing.I may offer some for sale soon if all goes well with further test runs ,Just cant decide what color Ano I want
06-03-2012, 04:31 PM
Rc phreak...u see my post about the esc and what the blinking green/red lights meant?
06-03-2012, 04:46 PM
Blinking green/red lights on any HW or Orion esc means that the esc kicked you out of sensored mode and into sensorless. That mode is still pretty smooth with those esc's though. I know Orion is working on new software for those noisy 4 poles so should see something soon.
06-03-2012, 04:47 PM