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Old 04-25-2012, 07:51 PM
  #33211  
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Just got the newly released TLR bleeder shock caps and tit-nitrite hinge pins and shock shafts.
Just on the bench alone the shocks and the a-arms feel alot smoother. No real difference with the bleeder shock cap other than the make setting up you shock so much easier.




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Old 04-25-2012, 08:09 PM
  #33212  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
I think you're right there on the gearing. Yes, the mondo traction on carpet will increase the amps that the motor draws (more heat). So a 14T sounds right for a 4600. I just try to keep temps below 160 to be safe.


Hum ok thanks yea i know it wasnt close to 160 degress. My temp gauge needs a new battery i was thinking about using a 13t but i doubt the motor would run any cooler since im running it on carpet. The 5000mah 30c actually made everything ran cooler than the 6000 50c but that lipo pulls more Amps so it makes since . So on carpet im just going to run the 5000mah 30c on that surface since the mains are only 6 min .
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:23 PM
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Are the new hinge pins really needed?
I can see where the TiNi shock shaft some people might say it has smoother feeling, even though I'm not sure how much actual performance you would gain. Has anybody bent a shock shaft on the SCTE yet - during a normal race type environment?

But the hinge pins? Has anyone actually bent them? or I wonder how long the TiNi coating actually lasts? I know they are a little longer length so that might be something....

Don't get me wrong, I'm really trying to justify buying them - I just haven't finished convincing myself.

The shock caps - yeah I see the convenience just cant justify the cost quite yet either though.

Any thoughts on how to convince myself?, or are they truly more a bling factor?

Woody
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:04 PM
  #33214  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
I run the SC411 (sensored) in 4600kv. If you're really power hungry or run on a big track the 5200 is a beast.

I have run the unsensored versions as well. They run great with hobbywing esc's, the toro sc esc, and mamba monsters. Most have had good luck with mmp's, but there have been stories of people having issues with that combo.

All versions are available at www.builtrc.com
+100 i run a hobbywing sctpro 8 esc and the 5200 i gear it up on longer tracks and down on shorter with more than enough power to spare!!!
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cdlowe30907
I want to use/buy a motor that will be on par with the Tekin motor. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
The closest match to the Tekin motor is the Tekin motor. You can buy the Tekin motor and have exactly what you want. If you don't like the Tekin motor or don't want something like the Tekin motor, then don't try to find a motor that's just like the Tekin motor.

If I didn't own the Tekin 4600, which I do, I would go back to the Castle 4pole 3800 (which I had, which is a tremendously good motor at a fantastic price) or the RevTech quad - which sounds like it's going to be a great motor (haven't seen/driven one yet).

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Old 04-25-2012, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
Are the new hinge pins really needed?
I can see where the TiNi shock shaft some people might say it has smoother feeling, even though I'm not sure how much actual performance you would gain. Has anybody bent a shock shaft on the SCTE yet - during a normal race type environment?

But the hinge pins? Has anyone actually bent them? or I wonder how long the TiNi coating actually lasts? I know they are a little longer length so that might be something....

Don't get me wrong, I'm really trying to justify buying them - I just haven't finished convincing myself.

The shock caps - yeah I see the convenience just cant justify the cost quite yet either though.

Any thoughts on how to convince myself?, or are they truly more a bling factor?

Woody
I'm in the same boat, Woody. I recall hearing that the TiNi pins are a little longer (1mm?) than the stock and as such fit into the upgraded aluminum carriers better. Also, if the outer pins follow suit with the mods Hacker was saying with the threaded parts, those are a bit longer as well so that you don't inadvertantly overtighten them and bind your suspension.

I would assume the non TiNi parts would have these same modification. So do you need them? No. But it seems they do offer some benefit of a minor design change in addition to upgraded material. And if you rebuy, you might as well spend a few bucks more for TiNi.

I do like the TiNi because it's easier to maintain and don't wear/bind like the stock equipment.

That said, I bought the TiNi shock shafts, HA shock bodies, new shock tops ... and went with drill blanks and will just polish my other pins (place in drill and then use emery cloth, steel wool, or 800-1000 grit sandpaper and they end up real nice).

I have not yet bent a pin. However, I have broken an arm (completely my fault).
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by omenwolf
Just got the newly released TLR bleeder shock caps and tit-nitrite hinge pins and shock shafts.
Just on the bench alone the shocks and the a-arms feel alot smoother. No real difference with the bleeder shock cap other than the make setting up you shock so much easier.




Where did you get those?
Or do you have a hookup?
I didn't think all that was available yet?
OH, I see horizon has them but not amain, my bad!

Last edited by thecman26; 04-25-2012 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
Are the new hinge pins really needed?
I can see where the TiNi shock shaft some people might say it has smoother feeling, even though I'm not sure how much actual performance you would gain. Has anybody bent a shock shaft on the SCTE yet - during a normal race type environment?

But the hinge pins? Has anyone actually bent them? or I wonder how long the TiNi coating actually lasts? I know they are a little longer length so that might be something....

Don't get me wrong, I'm really trying to justify buying them - I just haven't finished convincing myself.

The shock caps - yeah I see the convenience just cant justify the cost quite yet either though.

Any thoughts on how to convince myself?, or are they truly more a bling factor?

Woody
They are Gold!!!! Should remain free er with less galling or load up of the plastic in the arm and they are GOLD The 1mm length will be nice cuz the stockers tend to pull out of the plastic nsrts and ruin them with the alum holders Cheers!
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cdlowe30907
How would the Tenshock motors compare w/ the Tekin 4600?
The Tenshock sc411 motors are every bit as good as the tekin pro4's.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:33 PM
  #33220  
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Originally Posted by Moogumby
Has anyone seen this or know a street date on this?

MIP Chassis and tuning kit
I've seen the kit at my local track and it looks amazing. Not sure if it'll make anyone a better driver, but the phototype looks as if it takes away the lazy from the truck.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:37 PM
  #33221  
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Originally Posted by Losi57
Ok.In order for me to get full throw of my steering i have to use a BEC.When my trucks sitting on my stand and i give it 3/4 or more throttle and turn left or right when it gets to about 3/4 of its total throw it starts to cut out.I would say that its drawing too much right? When i put a small lipo on my receiver it didnt do it.What would you do in this situation? I added a BEC and all is well,right? I dont know why it does this because i havent been in this hobby that long about 10 months.But i definately found my cure in a BEC.
Just run voltage direct to your RX and forget all those band aid fixes

It's uber easy for 2s users, and costs $2.00..

Assuming one has a HV RX and servo.....which should be everyone. No reason not to have HV electronics nowadays. Running direct voltage eliminates ALL issues associated with weak BEC's, and boosts performance of your servos dramatically.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:41 PM
  #33222  
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
Are the new hinge pins really needed?
I can see where the TiNi shock shaft some people might say it has smoother feeling, even though I'm not sure how much actual performance you would gain. Has anybody bent a shock shaft on the SCTE yet - during a normal race type environment?

But the hinge pins? Has anyone actually bent them? or I wonder how long the TiNi coating actually lasts? I know they are a little longer length so that might be something....

Don't get me wrong, I'm really trying to justify buying them - I just haven't finished convincing myself.

The shock caps - yeah I see the convenience just cant justify the cost quite yet either though.

Any thoughts on how to convince myself?, or are they truly more a bling factor?

Woody
if you have to talk yourself into it or want others to talk you into it you probably are fine without the parts!!!!
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:41 PM
  #33223  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
Very comparable. I have found that the tenshock needs to be geared one or two teeth higher (but will still run cooler). Where most people use 13 or 14 with the tekin, I use 15 on a small track and 16 on a large track. They are very similar in feel as well except the tenshock is a bit heavier and will also leave your wallet heavier.
How do you rate the 4600 tenshock in relation to top speed & torque?

I'm asking as I plan to buy one from a friend as a back up to my Pro 4
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:43 PM
  #33224  
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Originally Posted by goehm
I'm in the same boat, Woody. I recall hearing that the TiNi pins are a little longer (1mm?) than the stock and as such fit into the upgraded aluminum carriers better. Also, if the outer pins follow suit with the mods Hacker was saying with the threaded parts, those are a bit longer as well so that you don't inadvertantly overtighten them and bind your suspension.
I bought a few of these from lunsford
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...gory_Code=HPIN
For $8.80 you get 2 of them. Then I simply trimmed them to length (a lil longer than stock, maybe 1/16") with a cutoff wheel in a dremel. They work great but are a touch smaller in diameter than the stockers.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:52 PM
  #33225  
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Originally Posted by Josey Wales
if you have to talk yourself into it or want others to talk you into it you probably are fine without the parts!!!!
hey no fair being practical!
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