myl3s91

iTrader: (1)

Well after destroying my first diff housing using CA glue, I went back to my LHS today and got a new housing along with some RTV Sealant. Things have gone a lot better so far, as to applying the sealant I coated the outside of the insert, after seating it i filled the inside gap around the hex and then wiped away any remaining sealant. Now waiting for it to cure over night and i will be back at it again tomorrow, hopefully it works this time. After cleaning and assembling the diff/diff case do i just place the diff+cups into the case with no grease around it?

cwilkinson

iTrader: (3)

Yeah it got pretty hairy using CA on the diffs for me left some of my finger tip in the diff

LosiMadMan

iTrader: (2)

My pro4 is still getting to hit. I bought a 11t pinion today. I've been running a 13t on a pretty small track and the temps are in the 170's with a heatsink. I was going to buy a 12t but my LHS was sold out.

Chase1472

iTrader: (76)

when you glue them you can just put the metal insert in and put glue around it. You where doing it the hard way

cwilkinson

iTrader: (3)

Yeah Everything went well on the last 2 diffs :P

I just ordered awhole new set of diffs considering trying the rtv but probably will just CA it cause it worked for me

cwilkinson

iTrader: (3)

Are you running any timing?

myl3s91

iTrader: (1)

After watching drakes video on rebuilding diffs, something i also realized i did not do on my first build is grease anything. I just cleaned out the diff, and filled it with fluid. Im guessing greasing the out drive, the inside of the insert, the o-ring, all help seal the diff? Can i use the remaining grease in the diff case to apply these steps or do i HAVE to get the losi high pressure grease?

myl3s91

iTrader: (1)

Yes i belive that happened to me as well lol!! But i hope this works for me now. Do i have to fill the diff case with any grease or do anything to the cups?

cwilkinson

iTrader: (3)

I use automotive grease and just grease the o-ring outdrives and larger shim very lightly

Mavortium

iTrader: (2)

Hey Alvin,

Great info - thank you. I am running a similar setup but with the Gens Ace batteries. What setup are you using in your MMP? Mainly thinking about punch control and also throttle limiting. Thanks!

John

LosiMadMan

iTrader: (2)

No none. 75% Current limit, no drag brake.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

What motor btw?

alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

I have the Gensace 5000mah 50c hardcase packs as well. They are pretty darn close in size and weight to the nanotechs.
On the MMP I run auto lipo cutoff at 3.2v per cell, no punch control, no throttle limiting, no timing, and low start power.
On the truck setup I tried the shocks longer as per the Lane setup and I really didnt likje it. The shocks being stock length in the rear and the fronts being limited to 84mm with the droop screws really helped me out. I tested lengths on night when we ran 3 qualifiers and compared fasted lap and lap times with the rc scoring pro software.

mkl

iTrader: (7)

Anybody try or thought of using plumber putty or pipe sealing compound for the hex inserts in the diffs? I have both and RTV but it seems that pipe sealing compound is taylor made for this kind of thing.
Any thoughts?

Feint Motion

iTrader: (24)

I don't know what motor to run, halp