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Old 09-11-2011, 11:28 AM
  #19756  
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion
A upgrade I think is over looked is the HD lightened outdrives. My stock drives showed a ton of wear after a hard days race.
your right and I agree!!
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by chucko
Was it the shims, or the gears in the diffs ?

Just in case it happens to any body else

I haven't taken apart the diff yet.

When you say shims, so you mean the plastic shims?
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
The motor is sounding good, what about the sidewinder esc in that combo?

Does the motor have ABC ingraved on the case?

Tekin RS pro or the speedpassion GT Pro would work well won't they?
I know guys that have been running the speed passion GT pro with a 5.5 and 6.5 550 since the jammin came out with no problems.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:41 AM
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I have noise coming from rear diff aswell during braking. I have narrowed it down to the gear that's connected to the center-rear driveshaft. When i brake, the driveshaft gets pushed towards the rear diff, and i presume that the little gear inside the diffhouse binds against the bigger gear making an awful noise.

Don't really know how to shim that, must be done on the shaft coming out from the diff i guess?
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:45 AM
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Has anyone had the losi rear adjustable hinge pin holder break. On my last race day the hinge pin rip out of the holder making a gouge in it. The plastic is understandable but the actual holder is a problem. Has anyone else have this problem?
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Old 09-11-2011, 12:01 PM
  #19761  
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Originally Posted by cavg
I have noise coming from rear diff aswell during braking. I have narrowed it down to the gear that's connected to the center-rear driveshaft. When i brake, the driveshaft gets pushed towards the rear diff, and i presume that the little gear inside the diffhouse binds against the bigger gear making an awful noise.

Don't really know how to shim that, must be done on the shaft coming out from the diff i guess?
If the gear mesh is too loose, you put a shim behind the small gear inside the gear box to push that gear closer to the diff gear. If the mesh is too tight, you put a shim on the non gear side outdrive of the diff inside the gearbox. Most of the time the sound is from the gears being too loose, and skipping teeth. Put a shim on the small gear like I stated above and see if that fixes the issue. But make sure the shim doesn't make the gears bind.
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Old 09-11-2011, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cavg
I have noise coming from rear diff aswell during braking. I have narrowed it down to the gear that's connected to the center-rear driveshaft. When i brake, the driveshaft gets pushed towards the rear diff, and i presume that the little gear inside the diffhouse binds against the bigger gear making an awful noise.

Don't really know how to shim that, must be done on the shaft coming out from the diff i guess?
There are two shims in the diffs next to the drive dogs. it either centers the dif or moves it closer to the gear. My unit came with two so that the gear meshes. and it will,... if you push it in... make a grinding noise. take it apart and clean out the grease. re grease with pro long grease about a half a tee spune make sure your rear shaft is as tight and as close as you can get it. you will notice, if you pull it out and turn it doesn't make noise. push it in and it feels like its grinding. also after rebuilding you diffs. run the car on two wheele's for 2 min to break in the diffs and to fling the extra stuff out of the way to make it run cleaner. if you have more issues call horizon service and tell them whats happening.
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Old 09-11-2011, 12:57 PM
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Can anyone that has run both describe what the actual performance differences were on the track?
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by StPete40
Can anyone that has run both describe what the actual performance differences were on the track?
Without ever running either, the 4 pole design "should" have more bottom end torque and run a tick cooler due to the power increase.

But I'm not a "Elitist sensored driver" so what do I know ?

I'm sure whom ever knows other differences will comment to confirm, hope you get the answers your looking for.

Last edited by Bondonutz; 09-11-2011 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:23 PM
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Just got the SCTE Tuning Kit and was curious what you guys suggest for the inserts for the adjustable hinge pins? I run a high bite clay indoor track (WCRC) and was a bit confused by the Lane setup page/instructions.
Also, do most drivers keep the set screws for the sway bars tight or losse so the sway bar can slide back and forth?
THANKS!
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by chucko
There are two shims in the diffs next to the drive dogs. it either centers the dif or moves it closer to the gear. My unit came with two so that the gear meshes. and it will,... if you push it in... make a grinding noise. take it apart and clean out the grease. re grease with pro long grease about a half a tee spune make sure your rear shaft is as tight and as close as you can get it. you will notice, if you pull it out and turn it doesn't make noise. push it in and it feels like its grinding. also after rebuilding you diffs. run the car on two wheele's for 2 min to break in the diffs and to fling the extra stuff out of the way to make it run cleaner. if you have more issues call horizon service and tell them whats happening.
Are you saying that an extra may be needed? I have the diffs built per the manual so should I add an extra washer to get the gears closer together?

The gears in the case are all fine. BTW: I have the AA kit with the updated hardware.
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SoCal Jared
Just got the SCTE Tuning Kit and was curious what you guys suggest for the inserts for the adjustable hinge pins? I run a high bite clay indoor track (WCRC) and was a bit confused by the Lane setup page/instructions.
Also, do most drivers keep the set screws for the sway bars tight or losse so the sway bar can slide back and forth?
THANKS!
Start with zero on the f/r HP holders. And your sway bars should float in the mounts, don't tighten them down.
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Old 09-11-2011, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by skengines
Are you saying that an extra may be needed? I have the diffs built per the manual so should I add an extra washer to get the gears closer together?

The gears in the case are all fine. BTW: I have the AA kit with the updated hardware.
my 2nd gen car didn't come with a really good manual, other then how to build shocks and order parts. but when I took the unit totally apart and laid it all out. mine came with two spacers on the out side of the in=side gear case. thank god. I took my time taking it apart to change from grease to oils. or I would have never known they were there. maybe Casper or Ryan can jump in and say. I don't have the 3rd generation AA unit.. they might have made some improvements that no one but them would know.. also in my truck if you push the drive shaft in and turn it, it grinds. ( just my luck )
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Old 09-11-2011, 02:35 PM
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Just ordered my TLR chassis from losi parts warehouse, 2 are still available.
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Old 09-11-2011, 02:39 PM
  #19770  
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Originally Posted by SaladFork
Start with zero on the f/r HP holders. And your sway bars should float in the mounts, don't tighten them down.
gracias salad, I will start there and see how it feels
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