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Old 05-26-2011, 08:58 PM
  #1666  
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I've got my ECO on its way ... yeay .

At any rate, do I need to disassemble anything and reassemble them (like what I had to do with the AE 4x4 SC shocks), or am I good to go installing my gear? Any know issues of faulty assembly at the factory?

Also, anyone running Castle 2200, what size pinion are you running on 4S?

Thanks for your help.

Josh
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:05 PM
  #1667  
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Make sure the motor mount screws have blue loctite.
Might want to check the diffs to see if they need shimmed up.
Most change the rear diff oil (go up in oil wt) before running.
Set ride height
Enjoy.....
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:15 PM
  #1668  
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What rear diff oil are most running on outdoor track? Mine is the typical outdoor, dusty type.

When you say "shim the diff", are you saying that the diff is rubbing against the frame / case?
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Old 05-26-2011, 11:27 PM
  #1669  
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Originally Posted by BoneDoc
What rear diff oil are most running on outdoor track? Mine is the typical outdoor, dusty type.

When you say "shim the diff", are you saying that the diff is rubbing against the frame / case?
I went up to 5K....so the rear end would not be so "loose". The shims will help the mesh of the conical and bevel gears. It will help cut down on the side to side play of the diffs in the housing. If you bought a new ECO in the box, there will be a few shims in one of the bags. I ended up using 2 on each the front and rear diffs. You will install them on the side that pushes the conical gear closer to the bevel gear.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:03 AM
  #1670  
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Originally Posted by PorTX
I went up to 5K....so the rear end would not be so "loose". The shims will help the mesh of the conical and bevel gears. It will help cut down on the side to side play of the diffs in the housing. If you bought a new ECO in the box, there will be a few shims in one of the bags. I ended up using 2 on each the front and rear diffs. You will install them on the side that pushes the conical gear closer to the bevel gear.
yup the truggys are so bad about that.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:15 AM
  #1671  
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Originally Posted by DanELITE
yup the truggys are so bad about that.
Bad about?
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:19 AM
  #1672  
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Originally Posted by SuperEk4
Bad about?
needing to shim up the diffs
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:05 AM
  #1673  
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I don't think most are needing to shim the diffs in the ECO.

I just changed the rear to 4K oil, set my ride height to 27-28, changed to 7.75F 8.25R silver springs, and changed my shock oil to 40 in the rear (much less bouncy after jumps). It is a pretty good start. Also, as stated before, blue locktite your motor mount screws.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:25 AM
  #1674  
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New Setup Sheet for the ECO. Travis @ Revelation

http://www.liverc.com/news/announcem..._Setup_Sheets/
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by richvarner
I don't think most are needing to shim the diffs in the ECO.

I just changed the rear to 4K oil, set my ride height to 27-28, changed to 7.75F 8.25R silver springs, and changed my shock oil to 40 in the rear (much less bouncy after jumps). It is a pretty good start. Also, as stated before, blue locktite your motor mount screws.
what kind of track are you running? sounds like your suspension's more responsive than stock.

what differences did you notice in the rear after switching to 4k>?

Originally Posted by jetbill007
New Setup Sheet for the ECO. Travis @ Revelation

http://www.liverc.com/news/announcem..._Setup_Sheets/
thanks

do you have to become a member to view these in full size?
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TonysScrews
If the sqeaking is coming from the arms then I'd run a reamer through the arms so they're not tight on the hinge pins. I do this to all new arms so they are as free as possible.
great tip.

and great set of screws!
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Old 05-28-2011, 07:46 AM
  #1677  
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Originally Posted by buggy8
what kind of track are you running? sounds like your suspension's more responsive than stock.

what differences did you notice in the rear after switching to 4k>?

I run 3 primary tracks and they are all a little different. I am just trying to find a happy medium as I am not one to drastically change my set up before each race. My last track (where I made the change to 40W in the rear) is a hard packed outdoor track with a lot of loam. Pretty low traction and slick. it has a lot of rythm sections that were making the buggy bounce on landings and with the silver springs on I thought I should thicken the oil. That helped calm the rear on landings a lot. The track I will run next week is more blue groove with better traction so tires will be my only real set up change. The track after that is a large outdoor with more sandy conditions so again, tires will be the big change.
As far as the difference after 4K, I never ran it with 2K in the rear just because of everyone saying it needed to be 4 or 5k. I tried 4k and am pretty happy with it. The rear can still get loose but that is probably tire and track conditions.
Just to let you know how I finished last week, I finished 5th out of 12 (yes 12 e buggies in one heat)! And I got caught in the big pile up at the start and had to come back from last place. i was happy. My lap times were more consistent than they ever were with my Losi and I also ran several of my fastest lap times ever at this track.

I am loving the ECO more and more.
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Old 05-28-2011, 11:17 AM
  #1678  
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Anyone near this setup?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8663427-post117.html
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:57 PM
  #1679  
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Originally Posted by puttekula
This is a setup from a well known rider here in Sweden. World-Race master x6, Pre-World Champion x2 Swedish Master x6, Nordic Master x3, The same guy is an official "tester" for Mugen. ANd therefore can get hold of cars etc. long time before others. US included.
He have tried many different settings but allways fall back to this. This is of course dependent of drivers style and track, but gives a good start.

Diff Front 15000
Center 10.000
Rear 10.000

Shock oil
Front 500
Rear 450

Swaybars
Front 2.6 mm
Rear 2.9mm

Long wheelbase

+2mm wheeladapter front E0241

Springs

Front 9.0
Rear 10.25

MBX6T servo saver spring. (harder)

Here is the setup I'm running and really like it. Super stable and very fast for me. 2 things that aren't noted in the sheet are I'm running +2 hubs on all 4 wheels and the underdrive rear dif gears. Also on the sheet it says it is for indoor but I have been running this on large outdoor tracks and it works great there too.

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Old 05-29-2011, 02:40 PM
  #1680  
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Raced the ECO last night. Still using the same set-up that I tested with on 5-26-11. Starting to get more comfortable with the buggy. Still a little more power than my extra novice driving ability can handle on a low traction track. Thinking about going from 60% to 40-50% on the CL setting to try to help out a little more. But being able to clear an entire rythmn section in a single leap is pretty cool once in a while! I still need to work on my jumping skills to fly this thing more consistantly. But the one thing I really,really need to improve is my corner speed. First heat I felt like I was all over the place (medium compound tires) so I changed to soft compound for the second heat. That was a little better. Just going to take some time to sort through it. I am really glad that I decided to go with the ECO!

Thanks to those that have been PMing me to help with set-up suggestions. It has really helped!! I appreciate it!

Last edited by PorTX; 05-29-2011 at 02:55 PM.
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