jasonwipf

Well if you cant see I'll tell you why.

-1 screw motor removal
-easy pinion change and adjusting
-lighter set up than what your car ends up being after a Teckno conversion.
-Less flex than RCmonster's similar version or other cheaper brands of its type
-extra bearing in slider adds stability to rotor so front bearing lasts longer
-(cheap nitro clutch) extra bearing in slider acts as dust guard to the motors front bearing which is now sealed off from outside dirt and protected
-and you can sell your nitro stuff and also get the EliteRCD mount $70, Battery Tray $15 & radio box $10 and its still less than the Techno Conversion.

True that mount is 30-50 bucks more than other cheaper mounts of its type, but when my car's total investment is over a grand thats chump change to pay for the benefits it gives me to that motor, its adjustability and protection. We spend that kind of money on aluminum bling for our cars or custom sticker sets for our radio and they do much less.

morgoth

You can't sell the chasis with an elite mount. The new Tekno is almost as light as a normal conversion I think. I orderd the V4 and I'm expecting it next week. My V3 was 80g heavier than my mates RCM conversion.

And the Tekno mount is imo one of the best. No flex at all! And 4 screws to set mesh, nah that isnt that hard. I reset mesh within a minute on my Tekno. And the mesh never changes btw. You can run it a half year without having the mesh changed

simplechamp

iTrader: (73)

It all comes down to personal preference. There is no right or wrong choice. People tend to make statements of their own opinion as if they are facts.

In the end, you use what you prefer, who cares what someone else says!

jasonwipf

LOL 80G is alot man. People spend big bucks to scrub 10-50grams with lighterweight option parts. Is that 80g with electro clutch/mech brake & servo or just direct drive? The mount does not flex nor will it move from where it bolted in but I guarantee if the center diff and the motor mount are not fixed together there is flex between the two and your gear mesh is the connecting point. 4 screws to set mesh is way more hassle than one screw on a slider.

morgoth

It was with the clutch setup. I'm gonna weight the V4 and compare it with my mates RCM conversion. The weight should be the same of the V4. And my mate was using a Neu 1512 which is lighter than my Tekin motor. Anyway, when I have the kit I'll weight mine a roller and he will to do the same when he needs to disasemble it.

immarcescibile

Are you using plastic spur gears guys???

o.s. power

iTrader: (14)

the only way i know how to run a plastic spur is running the whole AE RC8 center diff. the losi spur lines up but the u join shaft is larger than the mugen, and you can use the losi internals/u joint in the mugen diff. they are to different. the screw holes on they kyosho spur dont line up to the mugen case.

immarcescibile

Ok, I'll try on Genuary an RC8 complete center diff, any ideas on the number of teeth?? Is there the 46T in RC8's stuff??

gixxerman

I've been running the Asc center diff with the plastic spur since day 1. Order everything to build a complete Asc center diff. And yes ASC makes a 46 tooth plastic spur. Use the stock Mugen center diff bearings and you good to go. I'm using a ELITE RC motor mount and had to shim the center diff toward the front of the chassis with 3 diff shims that are included in the kit. I'll post part numbers if you need them. Get yourself at least 1 extra plastic spur, just in case.

jasonwipf

I'm not. I love the sound of plastic spur gears and most of the time alot of the guys I see run them with no problems. But I do occasionally see them strip if your motor ever does move and the mesh gets messed up or a good sized stone gets logged in there. I would really like to use one to drop rotating mass but at the moment surviving a race is a bit more important to me, so I use the stock hardened steel. If you keep a sorta loose gear mess you can make a metal to metal very quite as well (not quite as quiet as plastic) but your gears will wear just a tad quicker at the tips if you have them too loose and you risk stripping the pinion if you have it too loose. Its the pros and cons game.

gixxerman

Asc 46 tooth plastic spur--ASC89519
Center Diff Outdrives (2)--ASC89119
Diff Housings--ASC89115
Diff Sun, Planet Gears, Washers and Pins Set --ASC89120
Diff O-Ring Set--ASC89121

Should be all you need!

gixxerman

I ran plastic for an entire outdoor season and had ZERO probs. As a matter of fact I still havn't replaced it yet and we're running indoor now. After reading some of the above posts I think it matters that you run a good motor mount, I picked up the Elite RC and used it instead of the RCM mount.

immarcescibile

Good infos guys, I fear only for that my track (here in Italy) sometimes features some little stones in almost the entire extension of the surface, so little stones will be a risk for plastic spurs.
The only thing that I can do probably will be "closing" the chassis hole for central spur gear rotation by using some american tape underneath the chassis itself....trying to avoid some stones/dust entering...

Will this be useful according to you?? I also think that the tape will stay in place for a good amount of time since I'm using DE Racing skids which actually protect even the central part of the chassis from tape stripping....

jasonwipf

I think you are right. the Elite RC mount has less flex that would mess up the gear mesh than an RCM mount.

Immarcescible: ya stones might be your enemy. I dont think the tape would hold very long.

immarcescibile

Yes Jason, I'll give it a try on Genuary and then I'll let you know :-)

Just wanted to know if was there any chanches to use some plastic spur setup