1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
11-22-2011, 08:37 PM
Tech Adept
Please turn to page22 B-3 of the losi Manual.....
the two screws secure to what?
Through the spacer(2044).. through the alu. pivot peace(1065) with the plastic oval(2046) in it.. then what?? No threds past it what holds it all together. The rear motor does not have thredded hole location... what am i missing?
Mid motor it screws into motor..... but Rear motor I cant figurre it out?????
This is the rear underside of the rear motor setup!
the two screws secure to what?
Through the spacer(2044).. through the alu. pivot peace(1065) with the plastic oval(2046) in it.. then what?? No threds past it what holds it all together. The rear motor does not have thredded hole location... what am i missing?
Mid motor it screws into motor..... but Rear motor I cant figurre it out?????
This is the rear underside of the rear motor setup!
11-22-2011, 08:39 PM
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Not good when your trying to build ..... used roler....
11-22-2011, 08:43 PM
11-22-2011, 09:00 PM
So will I be seeing any other TLR guys at the clash down in Florida in a couple weeks?? Or am I gonba have to practice and come up with a setup all by myself lol hehe
11-23-2011, 02:56 AM
11-23-2011, 06:55 AM
Save this link for setups
11-23-2011, 08:38 PM
Should the diff screw be opposite the motor in a rear motor setup?
Some one said its on the right but I want to be sure. Thanks!
Some one said its on the right but I want to be sure. Thanks!
11-23-2011, 09:15 PM
The head of the diff screw is supposed to be on the left rear for ease of access, otherwise you need to work around the slipper cover and all that stuff on the other side.
11-23-2011, 10:28 PM
Hey has anyone here run the gear diff yet, i was gna order one but there on back order everywhere. and if you have and positives negatives setups, any replies would be much appreciated.
11-23-2011, 11:07 PM
could someone please explain the rear antisquat blocks to me. (tlr2046)
The upper parts - I have a full set of 1T 2T 2.5T 3T, and others with no T, why do some have a T and some don't ? Also the upper flat parts on the T's are thicker than the non T's , why? something to do with the washers or are those just for shimming the hinge pins?
The lower shims are clearly notched for the degrees, do the T ones go with the T uppers? The T ones measure the correct thickness according to the manual, the non T ones don't.
wtf ?
thanks
The upper parts - I have a full set of 1T 2T 2.5T 3T, and others with no T, why do some have a T and some don't ? Also the upper flat parts on the T's are thicker than the non T's , why? something to do with the washers or are those just for shimming the hinge pins?
The lower shims are clearly notched for the degrees, do the T ones go with the T uppers? The T ones measure the correct thickness according to the manual, the non T ones don't.
wtf ?
thanks
Last edited by asc6000; 11-23-2011 at 11:23 PM.
11-24-2011, 12:39 AM
Thanks Cuda! It's hard to tell buy the instructions. The manual picture looks like it could be the nut or the hex of the bolt. I put it in wrong, balls are slipping now, diff is fully tight! Toast after 5 batteries. I did the break in and adjustment several times. I guess I've got soft balls.
11-24-2011, 01:18 AM
could someone please explain the rear antisquat blocks to me. (tlr2046)
The upper parts - I have a full set of 1T 2T 2.5T 3T, and others with no T, why do some have a T and some don't ? Also the upper flat parts on the T's are thicker than the non T's , why? something to do with the washers or are those just for shimming the hinge pins?
The lower shims are clearly notched for the degrees, do the T ones go with the T uppers? The T ones measure the correct thickness according to the manual, the non T ones don't.
wtf ?
thanks
The upper parts - I have a full set of 1T 2T 2.5T 3T, and others with no T, why do some have a T and some don't ? Also the upper flat parts on the T's are thicker than the non T's , why? something to do with the washers or are those just for shimming the hinge pins?
The lower shims are clearly notched for the degrees, do the T ones go with the T uppers? The T ones measure the correct thickness according to the manual, the non T ones don't.
wtf ?
thanks
the other set each shim should be bigger is for the hrc toe blocks
11-24-2011, 02:53 AM
My diff ball are cooked after just 1 pack of battery run,the diff feel like got some sand inside,need to change to better diff ball.
I had done step by step building and break in.
The ori diff ball are not up to par.
I had done step by step building and break in.
The ori diff ball are not up to par.
11-24-2011, 04:01 AM
use the avid diff balls.
and when you pop open the diff if the balls are the same color as the time you put them in then you just need new rings
and when you pop open the diff if the balls are the same color as the time you put them in then you just need new rings
11-24-2011, 05:04 AM
The original diff balls are ok if you get the differential and slipper adjustment correct the 1st time. I'm seeing a lot of guys that are newer to 1/10 scale electric off-road that are running the diff too loose and the slipper too tight and destroying the diff in an early run. Switching to a better diff ball - B-Fast or whatever, might hold up to the abuse a little longer, but it is still necessary to learn to adjust and build the diff correctly. Remember that the slipper should always slip before the diff...