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Old 11-14-2011, 09:34 PM
  #11626  
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I think it is an .050
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:52 PM
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Probably a 1.5mm, it's metric.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AssocRacer
Probably a 1.5mm, it's metric.
Just checked mine, .050, screw is metric (2mm) but the head is imperial (manual even notes needing an .050 wrench).
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:06 PM
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Thanks guys. It's not a 1.5mm, got one and it does not fit. I'll try to hunt down a .050". I looked in the manual but didn't see it, guess I should look again!

Edit- Found it on page 10, .050". I see that MIP is selling a 1.3mm now, which converts to .051".

Last edited by Eric Tomczyk; 11-14-2011 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:49 PM
  #11630  
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It on manual page 10
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:52 PM
  #11631  
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My new TLR 22!

[IMG]
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:25 AM
  #11632  
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The losi/tlr tungsten carbide diff and thrust balls are awesome (tlr2951,tlr2947)

Last edited by Eli; 11-15-2011 at 12:26 AM. Reason: added part numbers
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Old 11-15-2011, 01:42 AM
  #11633  
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Originally Posted by James khoo
My new TLR 22!

[IMG]
looking good!
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Old 11-15-2011, 03:44 AM
  #11634  
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Mr. Hodge thank you for the clarification regarding the legality of the movable battery tray. You just saved me from buying 14 packs of foam blocks.

Wolfson, & Rob Martin, I need some tire and setup info for McCullough’s. When I do finally get this car together (which is my first Losi 1/10th scale since around ’05 from what I can remember) I don’t want to look like to much of a fool on my first run there.
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:40 AM
  #11635  
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Originally Posted by sstoffer
Mr. Hodge thank you for the clarification regarding the legality of the movable battery tray. You just saved me from buying 14 packs of foam blocks.

Wolfson, & Rob Martin, I need some tire and setup info for McCullough’s. When I do finally get this car together (which is my first Losi 1/10th scale since around ’05 from what I can remember) I don’t want to look like to much of a fool on my first run there.
Slicks is all u need...I'm running pink tapers out back with aka red's and pink tapers up front with either stock rear foam or a rear bomb 1..traction has been really good as usual. Nice to see u in a 2wd again (:
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:04 AM
  #11636  
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I have only run the shorty packs for many months now since the 22 came out. The car works so well with the short Xcelorin packs and I have that I haven't found the need to even try a normal sized pack in my car yet.

TLR 22
Xcelorin Short Lipo Packs
Orion R10 Pro ESC
LRP 7.5 motor, geared 76/22
Indoor Clay High Bite track mainly
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:30 AM
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Frank/Matt C./Casper -

Curious as to how tight you are running your diff. Assuming from a complete tight setting (spring compressed), how many turns are you backing off?

Rear white spring - what do you feel you are gaining with running a softer spring vs. the yellow?


Thx!
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:37 AM
  #11638  
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The 22 likes to have its diff run pretty darn tight almost clamped, with a loose slipper.... I have been running mine like this from day one and my diffs last for days!!! A softer rear spring will give traction at that end...
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:42 AM
  #11639  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
Frank/Matt C./Casper -

Curious as to how tight you are running your diff. Assuming from a complete tight setting (spring compressed), how many turns are you backing off?

Rear white spring - what do you feel you are gaining with running a softer spring vs. the yellow?


Thx!
I try to not bottom out my diff spring. I usually sneak up on setting the diff using the tire flick method. Kind of hard to describe but it comes down to a fell setting. Basically I hold the spur with my thumb and turn one tire and watch the rotation. I want about 1-2 rotations of the tires with a good "flick" I then set the slipper form there. I might adjust the diff a little more if I can't get the slipper the way I want it but this gets me close. Make sure you "work" the diff as you tighten it so you don't dent the diff rings. It is not easy to dent the diff rings but if you just slap it together and then crank down on the diff screw it can happen. You always want to work in the diff and break it in before you get to final settings.

Frank may do it a little different.
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:37 AM
  #11640  
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Originally Posted by Casper
I try to not bottom out my diff spring. I usually sneak up on setting the diff using the tire flick method. Kind of hard to describe but it comes down to a fell setting. Basically I hold the spur with my thumb and turn one tire and watch the rotation. I want about 1-2 rotations of the tires with a good "flick" I then set the slipper form there. I might adjust the diff a little more if I can't get the slipper the way I want it but this gets me close. Make sure you "work" the diff as you tighten it so you don't dent the diff rings. It is not easy to dent the diff rings but if you just slap it together and then crank down on the diff screw it can happen. You always want to work in the diff and break it in before you get to final settings.

Frank may do it a little different.
That's funny, I know exactly what you mean and do the same ritual. Not scientific, but seems to work for me.
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