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Old 10-23-2011, 06:57 PM
  #10876  
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I've got a bunch of the Xcelorin shorty packs. A few of them are like the first pack you are showing. They bulged a little in the middle, but are still running fantastic. I haven't had one come open like the second one yet. You might want to call Horizon Hobby on that one and see what they say if the pack is pretty new.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:01 PM
  #10877  
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Originally Posted by tfrahm
You're not alone... For my 22, I prefer using the bladders and then building the shocks with zero rebound. For our local track that seems to provide the optimum balance in handling...
I also don't like the way zero rebound feels. What is the purpose of this? When i first built my shocks I had slightly over half travel of rebound and the suspension felt amazing. Since I cut the bladder and built it with 2mm of rebound, it feels/sounds like complete crap.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:04 PM
  #10878  
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Guy I race with that uses the Losi packs has the same issues with a slight puff. He also stated they still run fine.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:14 PM
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You can unpuff it by freezing it, squeeze it shut and then wrap it around the middle with fiber tape.

Mine works fine. It had never puffed for several months til I abused it by running it once in my XXXSCB Buggy with an 8.5 motor that always runs cool just to see if the weight loss would be noticeable enough to use permanantly. I ran it too long in practice, the buggy slowed quickly, lipo cutoff didn't kick in and the battery got hot and puffed.
Mine have never puffed due to charging, only by running them too low and that's been a couple times and not just shorty packs. You can kill em all equally fast. Can save em too although you will probably feel the drop off in performance.
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:20 PM
  #10880  
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I puffed one of my excelorin shortys by storing it fully charged on accident. Put it in the freezer, it went down but now the case is a little loose. Also just bought a new one and it came a tiny bit puffed out of a sealed box. Not really worried about, it's just as strong as the others.
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Old 10-23-2011, 10:31 PM
  #10881  
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Completely un-related to the current topic..but I had a great time with the stock buggy today

ran the triple a-main sunday over at OCRC...came in second by just 1 point.

I won A1 Due to the leader and second place breaking ran a 13 5:05
in A2 Came in third Brent and Tim were rolling this time around I ran a 13 5:02 and they both put in 14 laps
in A3 I was in second the majority of the race got the lead for about a half a lap after the leader bobbled (he has timing and I have zero not even can timing) anyway he got the lead back I tried to battle with him but go loose a couple times and had to settle for second...so my points were 100/98/99 overall a 199 score to his 200.

Overall buggy ran great and I got faster each run in the qual I only did a 13 5:20. in a3 I ran a 14 5:19 with a fast lap of 22.456 I'd say that's pretty darn good for no timing or anything. now If I could just get my mod buggy to work right lol
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:16 PM
  #10882  
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Ok so I wasted another inner hub bearing. That's like 5 or 6 now, I've been replacing them with the *quality challenged* kit bearings but I'm done with them.

What is everyone's thoughts on replacement bearings? Are ceramics more durable than steel? Are they worth it? What are the good brands? Acer, Avid and Protek are what I found when I looked.

I run mod, I don't care about rolling resistance or weight, all I care about is durability. I will be getting rubber sealed, or maybe dual if needed to get a good bearing.
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:30 PM
  #10883  
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avid or any of them for the most part are good but the boca "green seal" is probably the longest lasting if i have to replace something more than twice the bocas get put in... the green seals are not even really nessicary but they are a bit smoother over time just stick with a rubber seal atleast on the outside of the bearing(the side threatened by dirt)

If you have blown out that many have you replaced hubs and outer bearings?(just checking)

Ceramics are nice but they are just honestly not practical on a load bearing surface unless you have the time to take them apart and clean them often.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:37 AM
  #10884  
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Hi Everyone,

Can someone give me a quick run down on battery position for the shorty packs and how each position effects the handling of the car? My current position is 1 standing at the front and then one long ways standing as well.

Thanks
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:34 AM
  #10885  
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Originally Posted by Laloosh
I also don't like the way zero rebound feels. What is the purpose of this? When i first built my shocks I had slightly over half travel of rebound and the suspension felt amazing. Since I cut the bladder and built it with 2mm of rebound, it feels/sounds like complete crap.
My 22 was awesome at Critters with cut bladders/little rebound,be sure that you are bleeding em properly. I was basically running Evans Reedy Race setup with only 3 changes..orange front spring,1-b rear link, 4 deg rear toe block. My car was on rails all day.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:57 AM
  #10886  
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mills check your pm..Got a couple of questions for ya!!!
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric Tomczyk
Ok so I wasted another inner hub bearing. That's like 5 or 6 now, I've been replacing them with the *quality challenged* kit bearings but I'm done with them.

What is everyone's thoughts on replacement bearings? Are ceramics more durable than steel? Are they worth it? What are the good brands? Acer, Avid and Protek are what I found when I looked.

I run mod, I don't care about rolling resistance or weight, all I care about is durability. I will be getting rubber sealed, or maybe dual if needed to get a good bearing.
Pick up a set of Avid revolutions, I've been running them in everything. As for ceramics, most of the guys I run with say leave the ceramics for on-road.
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rob martin
mills check your pm..Got a couple of questions for ya!!!
Pm replied bro!
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:34 AM
  #10889  
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Originally Posted by brian mills
My 22 was awesome at Critters with cut bladders/little rebound,be sure that you are bleeding em properly. I was basically running Evans Reedy Race setup with only 3 changes..orange front spring,1-b rear link, 4 deg rear toe block. My car was on rails all day.
Hey I raced against you guys in the b4, lol you cost me 2nd place lmao. You guys should come back. I got the 22 a week or so ago and ended up hitting low 14s on fast laps. My set up is pretty identical to yours at the moment. Bleeding with the bladder cut is a major pita or I'm doing it wrong lol
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:53 AM
  #10890  
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Originally Posted by Laloosh
Hey I raced against you guys in the b4, lol you cost me 2nd place lmao. You guys should come back. I got the 22 a week or so ago and ended up hitting low 14s on fast laps. My set up is pretty identical to yours at the moment. Bleeding with the bladder cut is a major pita or I'm doing it wrong lol
Yeah, we were on our way to RCE for the Concepts race when we broke down in Jersey..it sucks we didnt make the Concepts race but it was a good concellation prize gettin tq and win at Critters that weekend and had a blast and cant wait to come back. Check the TLR site for the link on bleeding the shocks or maybe someone can re-post on here. Its easy but I think the most important step is to pump the shocks when done to build pressure and then re-bleed to get a lil more oil out.
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