1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
I need a fan now too! 
09-05-2011, 06:45 AM
#9618
can you say overbuilt?
In a good way...
Half way through the build on this 22 and clearly Losi took the idea of durability to an extreme. I don't think it's possible to break this thing with anything near intended use.
From the looks of it, I would easily run on an outdoor track with 1/8 scale vehicles and not be overly concerned with a casual encounter - with any other 1/10 scale buggy, I wouldn't even chance it.
I'm not just referring to the aluminum chassis, but everything in this kit is beefy, parts are heavily keyed into one another in multiple locations. Material quality is off the hook, as good as anything I've built from Xray - high praise indeed.
Traditionally, 1/10 buggy's have been somewhat fragile and really only appropriate for more experience racers. Throw in some aluminum caster blocks and I wouldn't have an issue with a newer driver going to town with this kit as his/her first ride.
The time put into engineering is just sick. Clearly designed with the racer in mind, understanding that we have to live with these things by way of tearing them apart, maintaining them and often times under time constraints.
Losi has done a superb job on all aspects of the 22...
Half way through the build on this 22 and clearly Losi took the idea of durability to an extreme. I don't think it's possible to break this thing with anything near intended use.
From the looks of it, I would easily run on an outdoor track with 1/8 scale vehicles and not be overly concerned with a casual encounter - with any other 1/10 scale buggy, I wouldn't even chance it.
I'm not just referring to the aluminum chassis, but everything in this kit is beefy, parts are heavily keyed into one another in multiple locations. Material quality is off the hook, as good as anything I've built from Xray - high praise indeed.
Traditionally, 1/10 buggy's have been somewhat fragile and really only appropriate for more experience racers. Throw in some aluminum caster blocks and I wouldn't have an issue with a newer driver going to town with this kit as his/her first ride.
The time put into engineering is just sick. Clearly designed with the racer in mind, understanding that we have to live with these things by way of tearing them apart, maintaining them and often times under time constraints.
Losi has done a superb job on all aspects of the 22...
09-05-2011, 07:05 AM
#9619
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
In a good way...
Half way through the build on this 22 and clearly Losi took the idea of durability to an extreme. I don't think it's possible to break this thing with anything near intended use.
From the looks of it, I would easily run on an outdoor track with 1/8 scale vehicles and not be overly concerned with a casual encounter - with any other 1/10 scale buggy, I wouldn't even chance it.
I'm not just referring to the aluminum chassis, but everything in this kit is beefy, parts are heavily keyed into one another in multiple locations. Material quality is off the hook, as good as anything I've built from Xray - high praise indeed.
Traditionally, 1/10 buggy's have been somewhat fragile and really only appropriate for more experience racers. Throw in some aluminum caster blocks and I wouldn't have an issue with a newer driver going to town with this kit as his/her first ride.
The time put into engineering is just sick. Clearly designed with the racer in mind, understanding that we have to live with these things by way of tearing them apart, maintaining them and often times under time constraints.
Losi has done a superb job on all aspects of the 22...
Half way through the build on this 22 and clearly Losi took the idea of durability to an extreme. I don't think it's possible to break this thing with anything near intended use.
From the looks of it, I would easily run on an outdoor track with 1/8 scale vehicles and not be overly concerned with a casual encounter - with any other 1/10 scale buggy, I wouldn't even chance it.
I'm not just referring to the aluminum chassis, but everything in this kit is beefy, parts are heavily keyed into one another in multiple locations. Material quality is off the hook, as good as anything I've built from Xray - high praise indeed.
Traditionally, 1/10 buggy's have been somewhat fragile and really only appropriate for more experience racers. Throw in some aluminum caster blocks and I wouldn't have an issue with a newer driver going to town with this kit as his/her first ride.
The time put into engineering is just sick. Clearly designed with the racer in mind, understanding that we have to live with these things by way of tearing them apart, maintaining them and often times under time constraints.
Losi has done a superb job on all aspects of the 22...
09-05-2011, 07:10 AM
#9620
I have yet to break one part on mine in 4 weeks of running. The rack housing did get sloppy kinda quick, I solved that by replacing the parts and shimming the input ballstud up 4mm to reduce the angle on the linkage. Some slight dremmeling was necessary for clearance.
09-05-2011, 07:40 AM
#9622
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
New to This
Got some questions guys. Sorry if they have been asked before!! Tyler decided he wants to do some electric racing and I do too so he is getting the 22B and I am getting the 22T.
1-What are advantages/disadvantages to running mid to rear motor setup?
2-Do i need a shorty battery in both motor setups or just mid?
3-Any hop-ups needed/ weak points?
4-How are the Spektrum S6040 servos? Look pretty good and thought about trying them in his buggy and my truck.
5-Good starting setup for indoor clay track? Raceworld Hobbies is where we will run if you are familiar with the track?
6-Why are people cutting the bladders in the shocks?
Thanks again guys. Just want make sure of what I need to order with his car so I have what he needs.
1-What are advantages/disadvantages to running mid to rear motor setup?
2-Do i need a shorty battery in both motor setups or just mid?
3-Any hop-ups needed/ weak points?
4-How are the Spektrum S6040 servos? Look pretty good and thought about trying them in his buggy and my truck.
5-Good starting setup for indoor clay track? Raceworld Hobbies is where we will run if you are familiar with the track?
6-Why are people cutting the bladders in the shocks?
Thanks again guys. Just want make sure of what I need to order with his car so I have what he needs.
09-05-2011, 07:44 AM
#9623
New set up
I am looking for a new set up for high bite indoor clay (WCRC). I have been running the Evans set up and tweaking but just can't get it right. I think there was a posting of a pretty different set up for the same type of track.
Any help would be great.
Any help would be great.
09-05-2011, 08:21 AM
#9624
Got some questions guys. Sorry if they have been asked before!! Tyler decided he wants to do some electric racing and I do too so he is getting the 22B and I am getting the 22T.
1-What are advantages/disadvantages to running mid to rear motor setup?
Mid has less forward bite, rear has a pendelum effect in it.
normally mid is a astroturf/carpet use.
2-Do i need a shorty battery in both motor setups or just mid?
mid can run saddle or shorty, rear can run all types
3-Any hop-ups needed/ weak points?
not really much, diff must be build with care tough.
4-How are the Spektrum S6040 servos? Look pretty good and thought about trying them in his buggy and my truck.
no idea.
5-Good starting setup for indoor clay track? Raceworld Hobbies is where we will run if you are familiar with the track?
No idea.
6-Why are people cutting the bladders in the shocks?
To make the shock emulsion type.
this give you a different feel, bladder shocks are not used much in 1/10th offroad.
but they can work, its a preference thing.
Thanks again guys. Just want make sure of what I need to order with his car so I have what he needs.
1-What are advantages/disadvantages to running mid to rear motor setup?
Mid has less forward bite, rear has a pendelum effect in it.
normally mid is a astroturf/carpet use.
2-Do i need a shorty battery in both motor setups or just mid?
mid can run saddle or shorty, rear can run all types
3-Any hop-ups needed/ weak points?
not really much, diff must be build with care tough.
4-How are the Spektrum S6040 servos? Look pretty good and thought about trying them in his buggy and my truck.
no idea.
5-Good starting setup for indoor clay track? Raceworld Hobbies is where we will run if you are familiar with the track?
No idea.
6-Why are people cutting the bladders in the shocks?
To make the shock emulsion type.
this give you a different feel, bladder shocks are not used much in 1/10th offroad.
but they can work, its a preference thing.
Thanks again guys. Just want make sure of what I need to order with his car so I have what he needs.
09-05-2011, 08:57 AM
#9626
I have yet to break one part on mine in 4 weeks of running. The rack housing did get sloppy kinda quick, I solved that by replacing the parts and shimming the input ballstud up 4mm to reduce the angle on the linkage. Some slight dremmeling was necessary for clearance.
09-05-2011, 09:14 AM
#9627
clarification needed..
Hey guys,
Doing me best to RTFM here, but somewhat confused regarding anti-squat. Putting in Evans Reedy setup that calls for 2.5 degrees.
It appears that each anti-squat shim comes with a matching insert (plastic insert that goes into the aluminum hinge pin brace)?
Is my assumption correct, they both go together? The 2.5 marked insert and the corresponding flat shim?
Also, what are the plastic round shims that come with each anti-squat package in Bad-D?
Doing me best to RTFM here, but somewhat confused regarding anti-squat. Putting in Evans Reedy setup that calls for 2.5 degrees.
It appears that each anti-squat shim comes with a matching insert (plastic insert that goes into the aluminum hinge pin brace)?
Is my assumption correct, they both go together? The 2.5 marked insert and the corresponding flat shim?
Also, what are the plastic round shims that come with each anti-squat package in Bad-D?
09-05-2011, 09:17 AM
#9628
I just like my shorty battery back further than most of the team guys and that's 1 pad behind the battery with the stop moved to the rear holes and battery full forward.
You know you need the right tires first. All of the clay compounds work well for the rear at WCRC, seems as though most of the team guys choose JConcepts V1 AKA inserts have proven to be the popular choice.
Proline Scrubs seem to be on the front of almost every buggy.
09-05-2011, 09:22 AM
#9629
Hey guys,
Doing me best to RTFM here, but somewhat confused regarding anti-squat. Putting in Evans Reedy setup that calls for 2.5 degrees.
It appears that each anti-squat shim comes with a matching insert (plastic insert that goes into the aluminum hinge pin brace)?
Is my assumption correct, they both go together? The 2.5 marked insert and the corresponding flat shim?
Also, what are the plastic round shims that come with each anti-squat package in Bad-D?
Doing me best to RTFM here, but somewhat confused regarding anti-squat. Putting in Evans Reedy setup that calls for 2.5 degrees.
It appears that each anti-squat shim comes with a matching insert (plastic insert that goes into the aluminum hinge pin brace)?
Is my assumption correct, they both go together? The 2.5 marked insert and the corresponding flat shim?
Also, what are the plastic round shims that come with each anti-squat package in Bad-D?
The inserts and all of that extra stuff is only needed when running the mid motor setup cuz the tranny is relocated etc.