TWRC

iTrader: (14)

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kstoracing1

Dude, if u ever get your electronic soaked. Immediately disconnect battery and let it dry out completely!!! U may be able salvage your setup. I did with a venom setup. Mamba max TC drifted into a puddle, my dumb a$$ tries ti drive out. Ran over disconnected the battery. Then let it sit a couple of days after blow drying it.

It came back fo life.

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Hank you sir!

Hmmmm....

Shirk

iTrader: (1)

Why would you bash with a 22???

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Good point but we know it can take a punch so if it's 2w bashing you like, best to have a 22 right?

TWRC

iTrader: (14)

I dont. I hadnt made a video in a long time and I was bored so I figured I'd test out some settings and make a video. My evening

EDIT: I go to a track in Easton, PA

mjk1210

iTrader: (9)

at about the 40 second mark to 50 second mark your diff starts slipping. tighten it just a little bit to prevent more damage.

TWRC

iTrader: (14)

Yea I need to do that and tighten the slipper a tiny bit more, and turn off push control and adjust dragbrake a little bit

gene1219

iTrader: (16)

I changed the motor wires on my SP esc to red and cleaned it up a little.

kersey527

iTrader: (3)

I just bought a used 22 it has the 25 kick up block, how can I tell what caster block it has on it. I'm running on a small very hard tight dusty track, with small jumps. What caster block should I be using? It also has the 4.0 rear block. Thanks

ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

Hey there everyone, I am switching brands and I would really like to get a 22, but I haven't driven one. I am looking for some pro's and cons of the car. I do race often and I have seen the 22 run in different hands. I just wanted some input if I can. Thanks

Shirk

iTrader: (1)

It has a number of what size it is on the inside of the block, the common setup for caster block and kick up is 25 and 5. You might wanna change your rear toe pivot block in the back to 3.5 or 3.0.

kersey527

iTrader: (3)

What will change going to the 3.0 or the 3.5 do? Sorry for the stupid questions

TWRC

iTrader: (14)

To the extent of my knowledge, it changes angles of the rear wheels so that they are pointed more inward or straight front to back. This changes traction and how the car handles

Hope that helps

imajerky

iTrader: (16)

4.0 is the degree of toe-in, 0deg would allow wheels to be parallel to chassis centerline (roughly) As you get closer to 0 deg, the less toe'd in wheel gives less traction, improved steering. Going to a 3.0 unlocks the car a bit more than 3.5, 3.5 a bit more than 4.0. I run 3.5 (I'm a decent driver), pro guys (evans) is running 3.0 in the last set-up I saw.