Korgae

iTrader: (15)

Starting from the Evens set up

I tried a few different links at the track yesterday and honestly did not feel any combo gave me the traction I needed coming out of the corner.

1/A was where I was, I tried 1/B ( longer link) and still did not get enough traction coming out of the corner,
I also tried what a poster here suggested, 1mm shim on the hub and 2mm on the tower.. Looking for the neg camber gain... in action I could see the rear tire still go to + camber in a corner..

I kinda gave up on link testing and tried lightening my oil to Losi 22.5 from Losi 25.. As I do not have the new low friction orings.. This helped, but also created another problem at the same time. There is 1 jump where you are forced to land flat, and 3/10 times the car will bottom out and then catch a run and spin losing the line.

Went to the orange front spring, I did not feel a loss of steering but noticed the car jumped a little nose high on the jumps. corner entry was improved as it helped with the weight transfer.

The last thing I tried was moving the rear shocks in one hole on the rear tower, again it helped the car to be more consistent into the corner but did nothing on the exit.

basically if I get on the throttle and the car is not straight the car will spin and over rotate... Can not put the power down coming out...

Dont get me wrong, the car is better from the series race 2 weeks ago, but I know as a driver there is still more in the car.

I have the 5 degree LRC mount to test as well... has anyone tried it? ( 3.5 and 4.5 on order)

Any suggestions to a link set up that does produce negitive camber? ( Ps I am running -2 static camber all around) Dustin Evens set up shows -1 but I am guessing he is looking to free up his car for the high traction tracks.. ( must be nice...LOL)


Anymore ideas??

Fatal1ty

I got no ideas for you, getting more camber under compression. I think the changes you've made, made the maximum.

Try to use the white springs (1.8) and more antisquat in the rear, gives you more sidebite middle-out the turn and more traction. Also think about a shorter wheelbase in rear, and raising the rollcenter in front (down with ballstuds)

cheers

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

Do you have any spacers on the front inner ballstud? If yes, remove them and add a 1mm washer to the outer ballstud.

Are you running #1 or #2 on inner ballstud. Try #2 (outer).

Do you have any extra weight in the car? Run 15 or 20 grams in the rear but place it up as high as you can (on top of gearcase)

What pistons are you using? Try a bigger hole piston in the front. It will cause the front end to raise faster than the rear and give some added bite when exiting a corner.

Are you running bladders or emulsion style? I tested back to back last night and found the emulsion shocks feel more locked in on the track and slows the reaction a little.

Run short wheelbase. Reduce antisquat.

Try different tires.

tyreguy

iTrader: (148)

Any set-up suggestions for racing a 22 on carpet with the rear engine lay-out?

Thanks!

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

I race on carpet but with mid motor. Start with the stock setup and make small changes from there. The best thing to do for carpet is to run the right tires. Schumacher mini pins (yellow) in rear and stagger ribs or cut stagger ribs (yellow) in front. You can also try mini pins in front but they give you a lot of steering.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

You could play with your camber links till the cows come home, but if you are talking about losing traction at the very end of a corner, when the car is barely even rolling anymore, on-throttle, roll center changes probably wont help you. What you need is to change your anti-squat. Dustin's posted setup (which isn't his actual setup, by the way), makes the car's rear end pretty twitchy, and if forward traction isn't ideal, it could be a handfull. Here are the first few changes I would make: (assuming of course you are POSITIVE that you are using the correct tires and inserts)

- go back to 2-b
- go down to 0 degrees of anti-squat (start there and if that helps, maybe try 1 degree if you lost too much steering)
- go back to 2mm of limiters in the front shocks, or even 1mm... instead of dustin's 3mm (More front droop = more rear weight transfer on-throttle = more rear/forward bite)
- go back to the stock rear hexes.

(edit: added #3... front droop.. HUGE change for rear on-throttle traction.)

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

Cpt.America- you are a great addition to this thread budd!!!! I am impressed with the insight you bring to all the drivers here....

Korgae

iTrader: (15)

I have:

Barcodes (Gold V1) Pink Tapers, Pink BK bars, Suburbs ( MC) and M3 holeshots. all the same result... loose coming out..


Am I the only person having this issue?

Chris Nealeigh

iTrader: (1)

So if u add limiters to the front it can give rear bite?

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

so, it the posted setup is not what dustin is running, what is it???

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

No, his suggestion is to remove limiters from the front to add droop.

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

Adding limiters to the front shocks will give you more steering as you exit the corner which may cause the rear end to loose traction.

If you want more traction (less steering on corner exit) then you should remove limiters from front shocks.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

for carpet, use cut staggers, mini pin rear, black front springs and silver rear springs and go from there.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

I'm in the same boat, loose on exit.
I've been all over with advise and setups and haven't locked it in yet.

I can tell you that the 5* LRC wont fix it, been there. Helped it push a little bit but nothing dramatic and when it did finally steer again it was still loose on exit.
More great tips here, tried all but the pistons in the front.
Car is not changing much, still loose coming out of corners when my clay conditions are not perfect, car is sweet when conditions are perfect tho.

Great tips here, may be the best yet!

I went back to 1 degree anti squat, didn't fix it but helped some. Gonna try 0 degrees today.
I did not try going back to 2mm limiters in the front. Will try that too, sounds spot on! Maybe even 1mm will be even better. I did however try turning the shock ends back on fully in the rear with no positive results.

I couldn't agree more!
A few fresh ideas not explored yet will make my next test/race session very interesting and hopefully get my car closer to dialed.

I want to repeat myself and say that I have tried several tuning options to get the loose exit that I experience to subside.
Those setups included,, one at a time of course and then a couple mixed etc., shock locations, camber link shims, lengths, springs, oils, toe in blocks, caster blocks/kickups, ride heights, weight, battery positions, diff tensions/rebuilds and of course tires, tires and more tires.
None of which really got me any closer than I am with the posted Evans setup.
I do however like the bumpsteer shims from the kit setup so far, feel it did make a noticeable improvement on corner exit.
I am on my way to the track to try the front shock limiters at 2mm and possibly 1mm.
This idea I like and have high hopes for.

Note: If the Captain or anyone else can shed some light on Dustin's setups for less than perfect conditions please let us know.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

No, adding limiters to the front shocks inhibits the car's ability to transfer weight to the rear when you hit the gas. due to limited front droop. so FEWER limiters, (more front droop) helps with rear on-throttle traction.