TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
#3736
#3737
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Yeah! Building my 22 finally!!
#3738
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I will have mine tomorrow.
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#3739
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22 Build Tips:
1) place 1 small drop of CA glue on Diff nut before inserting into plastic T-nut. Use a 1.5mm wrench or .050" as a "Skewer" to hold the nut while inserting into the plastic nut. Place locknut with nylon facing upward and insert 1.5mm wrench onto nylon portion. this allows you to easily place nut into plastic T-nut.
2) Do not overtighten Diff Screw!!!!!!!. Snug screw down until Spring is collapsed, back off 1/16th turn
3) Always put a small amount of Silicone diff grease between diff rings and outdrives.
4) Do not for get the RED spacer the goes on the input shaft before installing the slipper plates. Why Red? a Red spacer means that it is a transmission part not to be confused with the other spacers. I thought it would help identify spacers since there are so many that are close in size.
5) Becarful when tightening down all king pin screws. The kingpin screw has a small radius on the underside of the screw head. do not over tignten and putting a small chamfer (using a hobby knife or other tool) is recommended.
6) Turn Buckles: Use a body reamer to knoch off flashing to help thread engagement.
7) Shocks: The lower cap cap be loosened up to 1.5 turns to adjust friction in the O-rings. A neat adjustment!
8) Placing a very small amount of locktite between rear inner hingepin/hinge pin ball/aluminum pivots is a good way to keep the tolerances like new.
9) Do not forget the M3 screw hidden under the rear shock tower that goes into the rear camber block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10) Apply blue locktite to the front wheel screw for the first coulple of wheel changes. This will allow the locktite to accumulate and act like a locknut.
11) The small screw that fastens the rear toe plate pivot to the chassis is meant to keep aht rear suspension in place while removing the transmission for diff service. There is no need to remove the motor guard (rear motor config.) when removing the transmission. Remove trans mount screws and simply pull the motor guard back and remove transmission, lealing motor guard inplace.
12) Servo allignment / tie rod / End Point Adjustment is very critical. The 22 has the most steering throw of any buggy. It is not uncommon to end up with very high EPA settings!!!!
I hope you all enjoy the build! Please ask any questions and I hope this info helps!
1) place 1 small drop of CA glue on Diff nut before inserting into plastic T-nut. Use a 1.5mm wrench or .050" as a "Skewer" to hold the nut while inserting into the plastic nut. Place locknut with nylon facing upward and insert 1.5mm wrench onto nylon portion. this allows you to easily place nut into plastic T-nut.
2) Do not overtighten Diff Screw!!!!!!!. Snug screw down until Spring is collapsed, back off 1/16th turn
3) Always put a small amount of Silicone diff grease between diff rings and outdrives.
4) Do not for get the RED spacer the goes on the input shaft before installing the slipper plates. Why Red? a Red spacer means that it is a transmission part not to be confused with the other spacers. I thought it would help identify spacers since there are so many that are close in size.
5) Becarful when tightening down all king pin screws. The kingpin screw has a small radius on the underside of the screw head. do not over tignten and putting a small chamfer (using a hobby knife or other tool) is recommended.
6) Turn Buckles: Use a body reamer to knoch off flashing to help thread engagement.
7) Shocks: The lower cap cap be loosened up to 1.5 turns to adjust friction in the O-rings. A neat adjustment!
8) Placing a very small amount of locktite between rear inner hingepin/hinge pin ball/aluminum pivots is a good way to keep the tolerances like new.
9) Do not forget the M3 screw hidden under the rear shock tower that goes into the rear camber block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10) Apply blue locktite to the front wheel screw for the first coulple of wheel changes. This will allow the locktite to accumulate and act like a locknut.
11) The small screw that fastens the rear toe plate pivot to the chassis is meant to keep aht rear suspension in place while removing the transmission for diff service. There is no need to remove the motor guard (rear motor config.) when removing the transmission. Remove trans mount screws and simply pull the motor guard back and remove transmission, lealing motor guard inplace.
12) Servo allignment / tie rod / End Point Adjustment is very critical. The 22 has the most steering throw of any buggy. It is not uncommon to end up with very high EPA settings!!!!
I hope you all enjoy the build! Please ask any questions and I hope this info helps!
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8: What exactly do you mean by this? Where should the locktite be placed?
#3743
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A question for you guys. I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere in the 250 pages but don't have that much patience. Will B4 wheels and tires fit on the 22? I have 12 sets of wheels and tires that I really don't want to replace. Thanks in advance for your responses.
#3747
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I hear people building the diff with ceramic balls and all. My question is are the stock balls carbide tlr list them as carbide or Hard, so are the stock 22 diff balls high quality or what? just recieved my kit today, will start the build tomorrow, I like to study the kit and manual a bit before I build just so I have knowledge
Ceramic from a reputable company are typically closer to being all the exact same size as well as being closer to perfectly round. Ceramic are also lighter and wear less. If you know how to get the rings flat and smooth and do the same preps to the thrust bearing, you can build a diff that's super smooth, requires less spring pressure to reach the correct break-away torque and is much more sensitive to "tuning" with different viscosity greases/lube.
Unfortunately all that work getting a perfect diff is squashed the first time you need to be turn marshalled because you spent all your time building a diff instead of practicing...lol. Unless your name is Dustin Evans and then it might help you have a bit more rotation and corner speed so you can pass Cavaleri... D'OH!! (j/k)
#3749
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