ifuonlyknew

iTrader: (7)

Well it is one of those things. Unless your camber and toe are way off, making them perfect is not going to make a very big difference in the way the car handles. If you have been driving RC cars for a long time, you might be able to feel the difference. Also, if you have been driving RC cars long enough to feel a difference, odds are you have become a good enough mechanic to figure out a way to mount the setup station to your 22 front end. I ask you this single question. Can you make an entire race without needing to be marshalled, and all of your laps within .5 seconds of one another?

F1Yankee

i like to use a setup board, although the hudy kit is a poor fit and takes longer, and the hudy board is way too small. the board and digital calipers make for a true car. i assembled some screws, nuts and washers for the front axle gauges.

J_Salinas

Couple quick questions, maybe you guys could help out. I've been searching the threads and have learned a lot of cool things, being "schooled" a bit. Recently put my first laps on my new 22 after being out of racing since 2008.

Slipper: Are most racers running the standard slipper assembly or is it common to switch over to AE, Avid, etc. Will the AE spur/pads fit the stock 22?

When, if ever should I run a gear diff in this buggy?

A lot of guys on these threads are referring to "2 hole" pistons vs the standard 55/56/57 etc. are these custom made, aftermarket, another mfgr?

Thanks, I will continue reading but thought I'd throw those ?'s out there.

bergie33

iTrader: (49)

The two hole piston is from Associated for their big bore socks. I think most are using the 1.6. You can use the regular ae spur and slipper assembly, not sure about the vts. A lot use the avid triad slipper.

SC10mobbin

iTrader: (1)

Thinking of getting a 22 any advice on parts setup build process etc

ifuonlyknew

iTrader: (7)

Take your time with the build. I would start with the kit setup, but build the shocks with the bleeder caps and o-rings. Glue up a fresh set of tires that are known to work well where you plan to race. Run the car, and make one setup change at a time to keep track of what adjustment does what. Keep notes about how your car felt, what changes you made, how the car felt after the change, and track conditions. Research what adjustments do what, then make a list of changes you want to try the next time you run. Until you know exactly how the car is going to react to a change, you should always run the car, make a change, then run it again. So many people here change their setup away from the track, and then wonder why their cars are inconsistent. Aside from the stuff about the shock caps, all of this holds true for ANY car.

CagomoC3

iTrader: (5)

You should try a 550 can in your buggy and take out the extra weight. same in cornering and better in power..

Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

Hi All

I have a questions re Suspension action on the 22.

When I compare the "plushness", travel and smoothness of my B44.2 to my 22, my 22 feels like its a bit sticky.

Its Like it doesn't return to its original spot, like the cars sag setting is inconsistent.

I have rebuilt the shocks with new low friction seals using AE greenslime, new oil, and I have tried both Silicone Lubricant and AE Black Grease on the Hinge Pins but it still sticks/feels knotchy.

The only thing I haven't tried is new shock shafts, my 22 is about 2 years old and the shafts have never been replaced. I have ordered them and they are on the way.

Do you think this will solve the issue or should I buy new shock kits/new car kit? Or should I be looking at something else?

juzza99

iTrader: (1)

For guys using 2 hole shock pistons, are you using them all the time or only certain track conditions?
Cheers

Dave H

How tight are the bottom caps over the o-rings? I just tighten to the rings, not all the way to the shock body. Some trim down the spacer between the rings.

With the shocks off, do the arms fall freely?

J@UNE

iTrader: (1)

Cloaked, Take a look at Jarred Kirkwood's blog.http://pittables.blogspot.ca/2012/09...haft-wear.html

His explanation about shock shaft wear make sense and could possibly be your problem for the feel you got on your suspension.

Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

Seriously, I have to move the shock position?

HighLife420

iTrader: (49)

Are you running 1D rear camber link? I noticed that the inner ball cup rubs the gear cover on the inside, right below where the notch is. I have never noticed it before since i ran my rear hubs in the middle position, once i went back farther, i noticed that it rubs. I cut a small piece off and it removed the rub, mind you, this is on the right hand side.

I have spaced out my rear shocks to test the above mentioned mod.

Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

See mine is both fron and rear shocks.

And as I said above I took out the front and rear hinge pins, degreased them, cleaned the whole area at both ends and have tried both Silicone Spray Lubricant and AE Black Grease.

Still notchy.

ifuonlyknew

iTrader: (7)

It really is not that hard. The suspension needs to be free enough to fall under it's own weight without the tires on the car. Start taking things apart until you find where the binding is originating. It could be a bent hinge pin, bound up ball cups, something shimmed too tight. It is your car, you're going to have to figure out what is wrong.