gticlay

iTrader: (14)

I stupidly just broke one of my Thorpe's - the 3/32 ball end. Grrr.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

That is impressive. I have broken 1/16th and .050 but 3/32 even a ball end is impressive!

AssocRacer

iTrader: (10)

I broke a 3/32nd ball last summer trying to take the engine mount bolts off of my 8ight. I was quite upset.

Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

Casper/Frank

I have a question regarding mid motor.

It seems alot of pro drivers both local and abroad are going to mid motor setups. But it mainly seems that this is for High-Med Grip tracks.

My question is would it be beneficial on a loose-med grip track? I know less weight over the rear tyres will take away traction, but as our track is very twisty I feel the less weight over the rear will help reduce the pendulum effect. (Car has a tendency to swap ends very quickly) Obviously I would need to add a bit of weight to the rear to maintain some grip.

If it helps I am running Frank Roots Standard Setup with the following changes:
Full Size Battery
AEE 25wt in the front/22.5wt in the rear - Bump compliance is very good so I dont want to alter this too much.

I am also running 17.5/Stock class

Cheers
Will

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Yeah any time I know I am going to be cranking on somthing hard I use my straight 3/32.

Let me put it this way. Cactus was the first large US race I am aware of that had a Mid motor car win. That track was extreme traction (carpet like). I would stick with rear motor for most all dirt tracks. We still feel this is the best configuration for these surfaces. Low bite you will not get the forward bite you are looking for.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

I heard that the A-main hobbies track that Nats and the Worlds will be at will probably need mid-motor. Any thoughts on that track?

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

Sick>>>
http://www.amainhobbies.com/Tracks/s...raceway/about/

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

Just want to say:
If you have a TLR 22 (not an RTR version), why not have a try?
It's worth the effort to have a completely different experience. Regardless of bad or not.


It just gives a lot of front wheel grip in the corners, thus more speed inside the corner.
However, in corner exit, you can't accelerate as hard as the rear motor car, or it will spin out very easily.

Rear motor configuration allow you to slow down, spin the tail out quickly, and heavy accelerate away in a straight line (with minimum front grip). For an overpowered RC car, it's an efficient and easier way to put the power down (efficient because CoG is pretty much at the rear wheel when accelerating hard, and easy because the front wheel have almost no grip when accelerating, maybe sacrifice a bit in corner speed but also gain a bit with shorter distance and defensive inside racing line), quicker especially on medium-low grip tracks.
While mid motor want you to go smooth, keep the speed in the corners and smoothly accelerate out of the corner. Keeping the speed in the corner can also means taking a wider out-in-out racing line. Result is:
1.It's difficult to control, you need to have a good feel about the grip, and smoothly on the edge (on a bumpy track with inconsistent traction, it's unpredictable => impossible to do it perfectly).
2.It's harder and later to put the power down (ideally at a faster speed when you finally put the power down).
3.It's usually more dusty outside the racing line, simply less grip out there.

However, in Europe they drive on high grip carpet track, even this year's whatever classic's sugar track. The traction made it easier and predictable, extra in-corner speed plays a bigger role than faster acceleration, especially with many long corners. (and probably it's also pretty clean outside of the racing line).

*Hara used mid motor RB6 in 2013 reedy ROC, but WCRC has beautiful smooth clay track and very good traction. And Hara is the master of all kinds of RC car...


I'm more curious if they are going to have the same track layout/configuration for the world's? It's a 1/8 scale's track, isn't it a bit too big for 1/10?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I don't have a clue what traction will be like for nats/worlds.

Dave H

If I remember correctly they are required to significantly change the layout for a Worlds. Even prevent access on it I think.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

.. more balls at a greater radius is better for what? I can see that it would be a better design to prevent slipping, but it seems more balls at a greater radius make the diff work harder to do what it's designed to do: allow each wheel rotate at different speeds.

Dave H

More freely? There are at least a couple counter acting considerations. The balls at a smaller radii generate less torque to an extent. The silicone viscous damping, which I believe is a significant part of diff action, including the amount used, is speed-strain rate sensitive, less there at the smaller radii. Seems to at least come close if not more than offset any impact of the tightness assuming good balls are used.

To be honest I tried it mostly because of parts I had laying around. Seems to work fine. But either way, no biggie.

Dave H

Drat, beat again.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

Yea but you sounded so much smarter. Radii? I could only hope to use that word.

Now, I ask - what's the plural of radii? Radiii? Radiis?

Now we can all feel dumber.

Kellen Guthrie

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,

recently sold my rb6 because i got bored with it. Had a 22 around a year ago and was thinking about giving it another go. Is there anything new with the car or is it still the same old red/white 55 pistons with 3 degree LRC setup?