BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

Since we are talking ratios I'm running an 8.5 t with a 24 pinion and 76t spur I'm looking to get more jumping power any suggestion

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

So I am starting to put more effort into the 22. First, I see a few guys are running the AE 1.6 2 hole pistons, or gluing the losi pistons. Any side effect seen with the AE 1.6 pistons? I have a few pistons left over from my AE BB shocks. I ahve all of the alum parts I want atm, but the alum pivot is binding my front arms. Everything is good until I tighten the sew/grub screw, then it binds hard. I have tried to back off the grub screw a little, and it does improve slightly, but still binds. With the plastic pivot I can get it all the way tight and the arms pivot smoothly around the arms. I did notice that the alum pivot is looser on the hinge pin and the plastic is tighter on the hinge pin. So I assume when I tighten the grub screw with the alum pivot, it is flexing the hinge pin and binding. The issues does not exist with the plastic pivot because it holds the hinge pin firm. I am only using the alum pivot for weight and so I just added lead up front with the alum pivot, but since i own the alum pivot, I kinda wanna use it. thoughts?

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

That seems a bit steep. I ran 22 with my 8.5. The manual says 23/76 but I like a little more punch for the jumping power out of corners.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Pull the arms off and look inside to see if there's any metal shavings or something. You do have to just barely snug the set screws or they bind. Maybe use blue locktite so you know it won't fall out after you get it set.

The AE pistons are great in the TLR bodies. In fact, I think they are better because the molding flash is on the top so you can easily nip that off without potentially changing the shape of the piston like the TLR ones with the flash off to the side. Not sure why they did that on the TLR pistons - seems like mold making 101.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

Give it a shot and see how you like it. Set the slipper kinda of tight at first and back off if its to much.

dmatter

iTrader: (2)

Try trimming the plastic kick up shim, where it hits the front hinge pin brace. Just like .5mm off both with an exacto. You will notice sometimes during the build you will have free arms. Then you put the kick up shim on then you have binding. Make sure the shim goes on real easy, not have to push it on. You will see where it needs material removed.

dmatter

iTrader: (2)

Oh yeah...Only tighten the set screws until you cant easily push the hinge pin out with an allen wrench from the back. Its not very tight so use a little blue loctite. Lightly use body reamer on caster blocks and knuckles. Just a turn or two. I then work the parts with one of my 2mm allen wrenches until im happy with the hinge pin fitment. I have heard if you slightly heat the wrench it works faster. Its basically just breaking the car in a little bit.

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

Try a 23 or even a 22 Pinion, tune for low end. Run the Super Soft Compound Mini Pin like a Hole Shot . Check Temps... Have fun. See you Sat. At Super Cup! Mod motors like the Lower gearing... I,m Running a 7.5 at CSRCCC.. but when loose conditions its a handful. Don't worry, the track will be super hooked up!

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

Sweet, ill be out on friday as well!!!

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Does Frank Root have a newer standard setup than the 2011 one posted on petitrc and the tlr website? I was comparing my setup last night and aside from springs and rear camber washers, I am pretty close. I currently have no washer in the rear and he has 2mm inside and out. So I would be raising my entire link by 2mm, which should raise my roll center correct? With a higher roll center, I would free up the rear end correct? I am unsure if i want to fre up the free yet or not. maybe when I race indoors, but on the looser outdoor track, I really need to keep my rear traction up. I am still trying to figure out what I need the buggy to do better. I talked to a tlr guy a week or so ago and he told me something that just made sense. The 22's handling in the corners is very speed dependent. And after he said it, I had to agree. When I hit the corners with the "right" speed it handles soooo great, if I am too slow or too fast, it goes wrong quickly. I find my buggy squares up nicely and handles the bumps nice at higher speeds. The only area in which it needs help is in the corners, but I often find that I really need to get a good feel for the corners in the practice laps, because the track is never the same from heat to heat. In the first heat it may be great, then in the main the car wont rotate at all without hard brakes. I know it is mostly the track, because my b4 will do the same thing, but not to the same degree. The 22 really feels the changes in the track. As it was pointed out to me, my b4 is just numb to the changes. Where as the 22 is more responsive to the changing track conditions. This is probably why some people say they chase setups. They are really just chasing the ever changing track conditions.

Ok, side note. I have an avid slipper coming. The stock one seems fine, but since i have an avid coming, I plan to use it. Anything special to install it? I think with the 22 you just need to leave the inside spacer in place then just do the normal avid install.

pablo040

I agree, and this is also where people are too reliant on other peoples' set-ups, instead of knowing how their own reacts as conditions change, or thinking there should be a one-size-fits-all set-up.

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

Regarding the Avid Slipper, install it like the instructions say. You might want to use a new lock-nut, if you have problems with the slipper getting loose during the run just replace the lock-nut.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Oh yeah. Run into the bad nut issue on my b4 with the avid. I nevrr temped my avid slipper, it it wears out nuts fast. What is the size of the nut on the 22? 2.5 mm?

pablo040

Yup.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

what does raising and lowering the front spindles do? I normally run mine in the middle.