Sodakota

Gear dif =less work=more track time. Might not be the best choice but they a lot cheaper in the long run. Just my 2 cents

DanielC.

iTrader: (56)

Looks like they have two mounting positions available for more adjustability. I'm betting they're designed for use with the 4mm trailing spindles as well without shaving the a-arm. Just a hunch.

mikelebron

Are most of you running rear engine or mid? Im seeing more and more run mid - or maybe its just me wanting to give mid a try..

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Lol, rear motor is the go to in most places in the USA. Mid is more of an AstroTurf, carpet or sugar racing thing.

Pellefa

Question around ESC position; what would be the main reason to mount the ESC in front of the batteries for mid motor (like the pic)? Pure weight distribution..? I wold hate to run that long motor wires.... (weight, power loss...)

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Yes, weight distribution. Dustin had his esc mounted on the motor guard previous and changed it for round 4 of qualifying i believe. He said it was much better overall. You are not going to notice an extra 4-5 inches of wire when compared to 2-3 if you have it on the motor guard.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I have heard a few people liked the esc up front even in the RM config with a shorty.

urismo21

iTrader: (14)

Is the general consensus of motor config, rear for loose conditions and mid for high grip

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

pretty much. I few locals tried the MM on the outdoor loose track and hated it.

2SlowTC

iTrader: (41)

The 2 tracks that i race at down here are both super high grip grooved clay and rear motor reigns supreme.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Rear motor until you get enough grip to run slicks or you run on carpet or astro. Cacuts this year they sugared the track to put traction through the roof and mid motor was run but that is an sxtreme case for mid on dirt.

drepus

Dustin and the others guys 22's looked good running mm this past weekend. It must have seemed weird running on such high bite dirt.
On a side note can you guys imagine what would happen if a track that was located in a part of the world with a high insect population "sugared" the track like that! The only smell in the pits would be bug spray!

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

I was thinking - there are SO many mid motor conversions out there not being used... Would be nice if Losi offered kits without the MM parts and maybe had a bunch of the important hop ups like AE does with their worlds kits. 2 hole pistons, aluminum hubs and camber parts, etc.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

the RTC does not have mid motor parts... lol

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

*I wrote a long reply yesterday, accidentally clicked the wrong tab and closed the page, felt so sad I can only write it today.
--->


My problem with ball diff is that, it's working great most of the occations, but in this situation:
1. track is a bit loose (i.e. our medium grip indoor clay, but one day after rebuilt to new configuration, the track is very dusty somewhere).
AND
2. there's a jump soon after the corner, landing on a flat surface, and need to keep on accelerating hard for the next jump.

I'd like to accelerate a little before it lands onto the ground (17.5t need to get the power out).
once the two rear wheels doesn't touch the ground at the same time, it will quickly diff out, and the car will just spin out. Or just doesn't want to go straight.

That day I ended up tighten the diff a lot (yes ball diff is easy to adjust), it helps on that situation, but sacrifices the cornering agility. Slow but steady.

I used gear diff with 3K oil the next day, it's just working fine. May be the mass of the gears, or the diff oil functioning. The diff feels loose and smooth, but it doesn't diff out on landing & accelerating situation.

*most of other cars uses ball diff as well, and they shared the same problem when the track is low grip.

---
and for 17.5t NR class, ball diff requires less maintenance.
I need to rebuild my gear diff every 1-2 months due to the spacer in the diff gets deformed, and then it will leak heavier and worse. http://www.rctech.net/forum/11758337-post18805.html, and yes, I did listen to that guy and built the diff correctly without overfilling it, the spacer is still deforming, and I still can't find a way to buy just the spacers.
While since 17.5t doesn't have that power to damage the balls, it can last 3 months easily without even a rebuild (a friend told me his ball diff has been there for at least 3 months and still good).