Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread >

TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree1Likes

TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-12-2013, 12:57 PM
  #19306  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Carranza76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Eastvale, Ca.
Posts: 2,079
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

mysupratoy: are you racing Westcoast's Supercross series?

Last edited by Cpt.America; 03-12-2013 at 11:45 PM.
Carranza76 is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 01:05 PM
  #19307  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
 
mysupratoy94's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sunny California
Posts: 733
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Carranza76
try it out yourself.

mysupratoy: are you racing Westcoast's Supercross series?
After seeing Danny's post with the new layout, I'm very tempted. However, I may be out of town if a project I'm working on for work needs technical support so its up in the air right now.
mysupratoy94 is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 01:20 PM
  #19308  
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Mother America
Posts: 1,104
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Adamska27
There are only three things that always increase total cornering power.
A) Tyres that adhere to the surface better
B) Less overall mass
C) A lower CG

This has nothing to do with driveability, only total cornering power

I will repeat myself for the trolls, I (speaking only of myself) have not had issues with forward bite on corner exit. Therefore I don't and wouldn't use that mod, and since it raises my CG it is probably the last tuning option I would use.

I have an "adjustment" for you "ifyouonlyknew":
Take 6 ounces of lead and strap it to the wing, but you can't say you wouldn't try it until you do try it.
Well, being that adding 6 oz. of lead to the wing is not an adjustment, no I will not. How about you calculate how much it actually raises the CG by moving the motor. Then maybe you will realize that moving the motor up by 1mm will not effect things as much as you think.

Here is a question for you. How long have you been into this hobby? I have been into RC cars for 20+ years. I garuntee I have more experience with this than you, and that you are wrong. There are many other ways to effect the balance of the car than the thing you listed.
ifuonlyknew is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 01:33 PM
  #19309  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (142)
 
ilanstylz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SOCAL
Posts: 4,615
Trader Rating: 142 (100%+)
Default

The bickering needs to stop now before it gets out of hand, RobEE I sent you a pm about this situation and I don't want to see another comment like you mentioned earlier. You guys need to move on and stay on topic......
ilanstylz is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:00 PM
  #19310  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
Cloaked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,204
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Feels like I somehow walked into 4chan and not RCTech.

Anyway....

I have a question for all racers out there.

Do you replace your 22's regularly?

Reason I ask is, mine feels pretty worn out. I am not talking about rebuildable items (shocks.diffs etc) just the whole car feels worn out. I dont know how old it was when I bought it but I have since had it for a year and put about 23 hours on it.

Just curious if I should buy another kit.
Cloaked is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:05 PM
  #19311  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Carranza76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Eastvale, Ca.
Posts: 2,079
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cloaked
Feels like I somehow walked into 4chan and not RCTech.

Anyway....

I have a question for all racers out there.

Do you replace your 22's regularly?

Reason I ask is, mine feels pretty worn out. I am not talking about rebuildable items (shocks.diffs etc) just the whole car feels worn out. I dont know how old it was when I bought it but I have since had it for a year and put about 23 hours on it.

Just curious if I should buy another kit.
I know some guys who race thier carts for 6 to 8 monthes sell them for a good price and buy new kits. Most of these guys get great deals so its worth it to them.

If the chassis isnt bent you would probably be better off buying new parts. I change out the steering rack and fron nose gaurd about every 4 months and my buggy feel pretty good.
Carranza76 is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:25 PM
  #19312  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
Cloaked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,204
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Carranza76
I know some guys who race thier carts for 6 to 8 monthes sell them for a good price and buy new kits. Most of these guys get great deals so its worth it to them.

If the chassis isnt bent you would probably be better off buying new parts. I change out the steering rack and fron nose gaurd about every 4 months and my buggy feel pretty good.
Hmm good to know.

The Chassis isnt tweaked as I have replaced that.
Replaced the steering rack.
Replaced front and rear shock towers.
Rebuilt Ball Diff
Rebuilt Shocks (new springs, oil, seals)


But for some reason it still feels worn out, plus the rear shock towers are tweaked, even with the new tower and chassis.
Cloaked is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:35 PM
  #19313  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
gticlay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,105
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cloaked
Hmm good to know.

The Chassis isnt tweaked as I have replaced that.
Replaced the steering rack.
Replaced front and rear shock towers.
Rebuilt Ball Diff
Rebuilt Shocks (new springs, oil, seals)


But for some reason it still feels worn out, plus the rear shock towers are tweaked, even with the new tower and chassis.
Maybe you just like new stuff
gticlay is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:42 PM
  #19314  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 17,388
Trader Rating: 84 (100%+)
Default

I normally go off the outdrives. When the outdrives are wore, I sell it. But it takes a while for me to wear them out. maybe a year plus in 13.5/17.5. Then sell and buy a new car. lets say you can sell yours for $150 and buy new for $279. So for $129 you get a fresh car. How much would a chassis, diff and a few misc parts cost. Keep your alum tlr upgrades if they are in good shape for the new car.
Wildcat1971 is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:53 PM
  #19315  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
Cloaked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,204
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gticlay
Maybe you just like new stuff
......maybe.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I normally go off the outdrives. When the outdrives are wore, I sell it. But it takes a while for me to wear them out. maybe a year plus in 13.5/17.5. Then sell and buy a new car. lets say you can sell yours for $150 and buy new for $279. So for $129 you get a fresh car. How much would a chassis, diff and a few misc parts cost. Keep your alum tlr upgrades if they are in good shape for the new car.
You make a valid and compelling argument.
Cloaked is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 04:21 PM
  #19316  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Coral Gables
Posts: 1,236
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cloaked
Hmm good to know.

The Chassis isnt tweaked as I have replaced that.
Replaced the steering rack.
Replaced front and rear shock towers.
Rebuilt Ball Diff
Rebuilt Shocks (new springs, oil, seals)


But for some reason it still feels worn out, plus the rear shock towers are tweaked, even with the new tower and chassis.
How do you run your shocks? Bladder emulsafied or bleeder caps? If you have air in the shock the car will drive like sh*t! Im not saying you didnt bleed them right but it may be worth a second look dude. I hate rebuilding shocks
2SlowTC is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 04:38 PM
  #19317  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
Cloaked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,204
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 2SlowTC
How do you run your shocks? Bladder emulsafied or bleeder caps? If you have air in the shock the car will drive like sh*t! Im not saying you didnt bleed them right but it may be worth a second look dude. I hate rebuilding shocks
Haha All good, I appreciate the help.

I know how to build shocks. and I know its not them.

Guess I want new and shiney things. Oh screw it, Ill order some parts I really cant be bothered building a new car any way
Cloaked is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 09:29 PM
  #19318  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Adamska27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The land of cheese and beer
Posts: 919
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ifuonlyknew
Here is a question for you. How long have you been into this hobby?
My first car was a traxxas rad 2, brand new with a duster esc, and a slot machine, and black sanyo 1700 scrc (1994??)

I'm sorry I even responded once and that's enough with the I'm better than you stuff

Last edited by Adamska27; 03-12-2013 at 10:52 PM. Reason: mistake
Adamska27 is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 10:49 PM
  #19319  
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Mother America
Posts: 1,104
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Adamska27
My first car was a traxxas rad 2, brand new with a duster esc, and a slot machine, and black sanyo 1300 scrc (1994??)

I'm sorry I even responded once and that's enough with the I'm better than you stuff
Lets run some numbers shall we?

All numbers via amain.

22 RTR, 1499g
5600mah Pro-tek lipo, 300g

Car+battery=1799g

First brushless motor I found on amain (new Reedy Sonic 2) 180g=10% of vehicle weight.

Now, lets for convenience sake say that everything else that gets raised comprises an additional 2.5% of the weight of the car, so that the amount of weight being raised is 12.5% or 1/8. So being that 1/8 of the weight is being raised 1mm, it would raise the CG 1/8th of 1mm.

If you are that worried about the CG changing by 1/8th of 1mm, then adjust your roll center by 1/8th of 1mm. I'm sure you are a good enough driver to feel the change of putting a .125mm shim under your inner ball stud.
ifuonlyknew is offline  
Old 03-12-2013, 10:55 PM
  #19320  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Adamska27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The land of cheese and beer
Posts: 919
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I accidentally called the black sanyo cells 1300 instead of 1700 lmao, fixed it

Dude if you couldn't feel it, then why with the mod?
Raising rear roll centre will change roll axis, that's why
I'm done now man
Adamska27 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.