mysupratoy94

iTrader: (24)

I was asked what size battery. I forgot to mention I have 4deg toe in. As to spacers on shocks, I will check. I believe I'm only running 1mm spacer on front shocks. Pretty sure actually. As for rear shocks, when you say eyelets, can you describe what that is? Are you referring to the plastic part at the end of the shock shaft?

ifuonlyknew

iTrader: (7)

If you look at my post where I said what, you will notice I quoted someone else. When you quote someone it means that you are talking to them. That guy I quoted just said "full size pack". He was not involved in any conversation in here, nor did he answer anyone's question. Think of each thread as a room. When you post a question it is kind of like you are sitting in that room repeating your question out loud. When someone (like me) comes along and randomly answers a question it is kind of like I just walked into the room and answered your question. This guy just randomly pops in and makes a statement. He didn't contribute anything, ask or answer a question. Which is why I called him out on it.

As for you, the spacers in your front shock only have an effect on how the car behaves on throttle. You said the car is good on throttle, so that is why I said nothing of your front shock spacers. Do you not understand how weight transfer works? When you get on throttle the weight transfers back and compresses the rear suspension, thus transferring more weight and providing traction. When you slow down, the weight transfers forward and the same thing happens up front. The more downtravel the end of the car has, the more weight it can transfer to the other end. This is why you should have payed attention in physics class in high school. Vehicle dynamics is nothing more than physics at work.

As for your question of what is a shock eyelet? Google "shock eyelet" and go to images, you should be able to figure it out from there.

mysupratoy94

iTrader: (24)

I'm going to assume you're drunk or something at this moment because you went from being somewhat helpful to a straight up @ss. Nobody forced you to answer my questions so if you chhose to do so, do it without the smart @ss attitude. Now go to bed and get sober.

ifuonlyknew

iTrader: (7)

Not drunk, just speaking matter-of-factly. Don't read into my post as me being a jerk. I can see how it could come off that way (especially with the fact that people read into things differently). If I came off as an ass to you (which obviously I did) I'm sorry, as that was not my intent. I was simply stating facts. Basically read my post without any emotion, just as a fact based statement.

Also feel free to try any of the suggested changes from anyone else, and then try mine. What I suggested will change the steering off power, but not effect the on power steering. The only other thing suggested will effect the car on and off power, not to mention less toe will not so much create more steering, as it will free up the rear end (on and off power). More rear downtravel will free up the rear end a little, while also creating a bit more traction up front. It should increase your corner speed slightly as your car won't have to slow as much for the front tires to change the direction of travel of the car.

mysupratoy94

iTrader: (24)

Ok, just thought you were having a "moment" there lol. Thanks again and I will try your suggestions.

ChrisWolfson

iTrader: (3)

I have to say I would go to the 3 degree rear block. If you're running on high bite clay, 4 degrees of rear toe is way too much. If the track is high bite, I don't think you'll lose much forward bite and you'll probably get some more rotation out of the car.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

+1. Wanna try that new 2.5 degree . ..

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

I am keen to try the 2.5 degree would be interesting to see if you could get any benefit out of it in mod

punkracer24

iTrader: (13)

wow... sorry I didn't respond sooner

reason I ask what battery is because I have found that the car, in my opinion, is very sensitive to which pack you run for wieght reasons and the changes you make may have a different effect based on that.

As others have mentioned your two best options are probably either running less toe in the rear since you are in a high grip situation, or add a MM or 2 of spacers inside the front shocks to keep the nose down.

If you have a chance, you might want to try a short pack and your full size pack on back to back runs to see how that feels, maybe a buddy at the track will let you run it once. two very different feels I think


sorry for the fly by

mjk1210

iTrader: (9)

The 2.5 degree is dialed on high bite tracks.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Yeah? They advertise it to be good on stock class cars. I will seek one out . . .

Rcdudes3475

iTrader: (6)

Hi I really need a setup for mikeshobbyshop in carrolton texas its a low bite track and right now I have no rear traction.

RShockley

iTrader: (7)

There are a few good starting points.
JR Mitch setup from last years Bigfoot race
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...hop2012030304/
Frank Roots Reedy Race setup
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...yRace20120129/
Dustin Evans setup
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...als2011081314/

All of these are good starting points with the right tires. You can make changes from there to suit your driving style.

Also you can ask any of us at the track anytime if you need help. Anytime at the track. What tires are you running front and rear right now?

Rcdudes3475

iTrader: (6)

Right now Im running gold barcodes in the front and m3 holeshots in the rear.

RShockley

iTrader: (7)

I would lose the gold barcodes. The holeshots work great in M4 compound. Try running a grooved tire up front. I am currently running pink Hotbodies gigabyte rears and pink Hotbodies double blade fronts. You really want the softest tire you can get for the rears.