dbracn

iTrader: (28)

Caper or anyone,
What does raising just the inner ballstud on the rear camber block do? Also is it relative to the angle(how many spacers are also on the hub).

My current layout has a lot of 180s and i was looking for a little more rotation out of the car mid turn. Would it be better to raise the inner ballstud, increase the antisquat, or move the battery forward, or just add a stiffer rear spring? Not sure which would be a better adjustment. Any help would be great.

synap2012

iTrader: (2)

The upper camber link works the relationship between the Roll Center (RC) and the Center of Gravity (CG)

it also effects your "Instantaneous Center" which is your Camber Rise

Also its good to remember when adjusting roll center that the lower arm hinge's, when moved up or down are COARSE adjustment and the Upper Camber link is a fine adjustment to RC.

So to your question ......
The inner link on the rear block when raised it lowers RC and when lowered it raises the RC

its easier to visualize if you can remember that CG is above RC, so when the CG is further away from the RC the cars body will roll MORE... If the CG is close the the RC the the care will roll LESS!

To answer your last question ( I have been track testing this stuff lately) about the relative angle at the hub....... If your camber link is the same length as the suspension arm (or from inner hinge to outer hinge pin) and is parallel with the suspension arm, then ZERO CAMBER RISE will incur.

Longer links have less camber rise, shorter link has more camber rise

less of an angle equals less camber rise, more of an angle creates more camber rise.

So to implement this in your situation..........
You want more rotation (or tighter cornering ability)
a few things to try:
-more roll in front end (lower RC)
-less roll in rear end (raise RC)
-more camber rise in front (increase angle)
-less camber rise in rear (decrease angle)

Dale.0

iTrader: (2)

Synap, so what is the effect of raising or lowering both ends of the camber link the same amount? Like adding 1mm on both ends.

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

If I don't land jumps perfectly the rear bottoms out really easily and spins me out. Any suggestions?
27.5Wt, Emulsion, Yellow springs, Arms level.

kjohnsiii

iTrader: (55)

What pistons?

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

Smallest 4-hole ones. Either 54 or 57, forgot which one is smaller.

kjohnsiii

iTrader: (55)

Thinking two hole pistons would help

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

Okay thanks!

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Is your buggy bottoming out when it lands? I run 1.6 2 hole pistons with 30wt AE oil Orange/Yellow springs and I can land just about anywhere. Rebuild your shocks if it hasn't been done in a while.

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

Yes. Shocks were just rebuilt. I will try the two-holes. Thanks guys!

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

relatively big jump with flat landing?
then either raise the ride height (helps, but not solve the problem),
or more pack in damping. (smaller hole/less holes piston with lower weight shock fluid, then at high speed damping, the liquid turbulence will create extra damping, works well on smooth track)

use this page to calculate what shock fluid you may want to change to:
http://rcrcr.com/index.php?option=co...eral&Itemid=46

changing spring or just thicken shock oil will change the car's handling a bit too much.

also, try brake in the air and landing on the front wheel first.

Evil Genius jr.

iTrader: (28)

Yup, and thanks I'll give it a go.

underway

iTrader: (56)

anybody have an extra 22 manual they could part with for a small fee?

jk racing

iTrader: (20)

isnt is available on the TLR website? or you need a hardcopy?

underway

iTrader: (56)

Prefer the hardcopy as it stands up better in my pit bag than the copy I can print on regular paper.