R.Shackleford

iTrader: (4)

Well it's like any other setup change. You only need it when you need it. If your base setup is working exactly how you want, then every adjustment on the car is useless. Piston hole size and the number of holes effect the transition between laminar and turbulent flow of the oil. If you are happy with your setup, but your car seems to bottom out too easy, then smaller piston holes will allow the laminar to turbulent transition to happen more quickly, allowing the shock to pack up under high speed compression earlier in the shock stroke, effectively making the shock stiffer for more of its travel.

R.Shackleford

iTrader: (4)

No need for a shock dyno, nor the need to try hundreds of ineffective combos. Start with something that is a know close starting point. If the know starting point has obvious shortcomings, make a change.

F1Yankee

measure on the bench, prove on the track

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

Just seeing if anyone has come across something they like more than 4 hole 55 pistons. On the 22t I here 2hole 1.7 mm pistons are the hot ticket. Ghea pistons I here are nice with the tapered bottom. I know RCShox is working on a new 2 stage piston. MIP pistons seems interesting but there are no Losi buggy set-ups for them.

Current track I run on is clay but very bumpy with no jumps, mostly rollers, but the layout changes every two weeks. Setup was better with 54 pistons in the rear and white springs.

LosiBoy13

Hey I just bought the b-fast ball diff for my 22 and I have built nice diffs in the past but I want to build a really nice ball diff for my 22 does anyone have any build tips for me?

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

Tutorial at the top of this sub form and various YouTube videos. That and taking your time...

savidans

iTrader: (2)

is anyone considering putting the new ae big bores on any of their 22 vehicles?
everyone seems pretty excited about them coming out and I am wondering should they be or are they better than the tlr's and if so why?

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Build it per the manual and then use Bfast`s break-in method .

Midwest_Mudder

iTrader: (7)

honestly, big bores are overkill on these lil bitty buggies. i used to have a xxx cr ran perfectly fine with the standard bores, all of the older buggies have ran regular sized shocks, SCTs, Stadium trucks, etc, all use standard bores. 1/8th scale and 4x4 scts have the weight to make use of the shocks. thats like putting bilstein offroad shocks on a road car. sure theyd work, sure theyre cool, but why waste the money. guess i never bought into the big bore craze though

LosiBoy13

Hey thanx

DsWright

iTrader: (5)

I disagree. Big bores are much more consistent for me than std shocks ever dreamed of. The larger amount of oil seems to make it take alot more air entering them via leakage when built emulsion style before they start to feel "off".

I really like the 22 shocks when built with one std and one low friction oring. You can also unscrew the bottoms slightly as the rings swell to keep the sticktion under control without having to rebuild shocks with fresh orings every day.

Dougoilman661

iTrader: (13)

well, 3 days and $867 my buggy is almost ready to race.
I got a Orion Advantage Touch charger, Turnigy Nanotech shorty packs, Orion R10 160A esc, Orion 8.5t motor (amain was out of 7.5) Spektrum 6070 servo and various building parts and tool sets. All i need now is some aluminum parts and ill feel alot better. Do anyone have any recomendations on how to take the slight play out of the front suspension? I think aluminum spindles and carriers would help....

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

upgrading to aluminium won't take out the slop

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

I'm looking for more steering mid corner. Does anyone have any general suggestions to try? Specifically on longer sweeping corners. It also needs a touch more on exit.

Dougoilman661

iTrader: (13)

what will?