T.Ngo

iTrader: (12)

Can I run a shorty pack 4200mah 65c on a tekin rs pro 13.5?

rob martin

iTrader: (66)

Yes

T.Ngo

iTrader: (12)

Thanks didnt want to fry my electronics.

rob martin

iTrader: (66)

no problem (:

Dougoilman661

iTrader: (13)

Got my 22 up and running almost. Got a Savox 1251mg servo, Nanotech shorty lipos, Orion R10 ESC and got the new Advantage Touch Charger. I plan on trying the mid motor setup because my last 22 with a 7.5 was difficult to handle. Anyone running murfdogg motor? I am trying to decide which to run, orion 7.5 or a murfdogg 7.5 LMK what you think of the murfdoggs

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

Can't go wrong with a Murfdogg motor. I been running/winning with them for years. He has some new fast spec class motors coming out too.

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

got me a 22 on the way. Used one but cant wait. Its all stock. What seems to be the most popular body for the car? the stock losi? Also gonna be runnning on indoor clay track. What are the optional parts as far as springs and pistons I need for the car? Any other hopups? Thanks gonna be a regular here now

F1Yankee

i suggest bleeder shock caps and tungsten carbide diff balls on any 22. make your life easier and stick with the 55 pistons and use the frank root reedy setup as your baseline setup. i run on indoor clay as well, and the car really responded well to springs that are 2 steps stiffer than stock, especially if you're bottoming out on a big jump- silver fronts, red rears.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

I like the bulldog body personally. cant tell if it drives differently but sure looks better than the rest! (i have a stock and finnisher)

try the Frank Root set up as a starting point:

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...Reedy_Race.pdf

hopups:

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2012/...d-i-start.html

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

thanks guys, should I stick with the stock losi diff screw and nut or get the associated one.

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

I prefer the stock Losi screw with a gen II Losi nut. It has a good feel and hasn't backed out like the stock nut. I tried the AE screw and nut and it works fine. The screw is stronger but I like the feel of the Losi screw and gen ii nut better. The Losi screw will snap if you overtighten your diff. The AE nut will not snap but instead crush your thrust rings if you overtighten. I have done both lol.

Dougoilman661

iTrader: (13)

Do you guys prefer carbide or ceramic balls in your diff? Im going to be getting the Bfast kit because my current diff feels gritty.

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

Has anyone exspiremented with pistons at all. Seems AE is using 2 hole and Kyosho 5 hole. I know suspension geometry is different on the cars but the bore of the shocks is basically the same.

F1Yankee

without an rc shock dyno, i wouldn't bother plowing thru a million bad/ineffective setups when the baseline is ok. does anyone know of shock dynos for sale?

edit:
the best hope i could find
http://realshocks.com/Shock_Lab.html

R.Shackleford

iTrader: (4)

Carbide for the mains and ceramic for the thrust. Ceramic deals with pressure better, but requires more tension in order not to slip. Pressure is the concern in the thrust bearing, while slipping is not. Slipping is a concern for the main balls, as is having as little tension as possible while not slipping. This is where carbide excels. It has better traction than ceramic, and much better wear characteristics and hardness than standard diff balls.

Well yeah I'm sure people have experimented with different pistons. It is like any other adjustment, you don't need it until you need it. Pistons offer such a small adjustment for such a large amount of work, that other than maybe pro drivers doing development work, I doubt anyone has done back to back at the track testing with the only setup change being pistons. The vast majority of people don't even know how to use adjustments which are much easier to make, and much easier to feel on track. Let alone something small like pistons. What are you asking exactly?